Lower the noise and speed of the cooler
Hello, today I will tell you how easy it is to lower the speed and noise of the cooler.
We can do without wood and flash drives.
This is my first post, in the following I will talk about how to make video surveillance, liquid cooling system, automated (programmable) lighting and much more tasty, we will solder, drill and flash chips, but for now we will start with the simplest, but nevertheless , highly efficient reception: mounting a variable resistor.
')
The noise from the cooler depends on the number of revolutions, the shape of the blades, the type of bearings and other things. The greater the number of revolutions, the more efficient the cooling, and the more noise. Not always and everywhere need 1600 rpm. and if we lower them, the temperature will rise by a few degrees, which is not critical, and the noise can disappear altogether!
On modern motherboards integrated management of the speed of the coolers that are powered by it. In BIOS, you can set a “reasonable” cut, which will change the speed of the coolers depending on the temperature of the cooled chipset. But on the old and budget boards there is no such option, and how to deal with other coolers, for example, a BP cooler or case cooler? To do this, you can mount a variable resistor in the cooler's power supply circuit, such systems sell, but they cost incredible money, considering that the cost price of such a system is about 1.5 - 2 dollars! Such a system sells for $ 40:
You can do it yourself, using as a panel - a plug from your system unit (plug into the basket where DVD / CD drives are inserted), and you will learn about other things from this post.
Further, I will describe the process on the example of working with BP, but it is identical in all cases.
Because I broke off 1 blade from the cooler on the power supply unit, I bought a new one on ball bearings, it is much quieter than usual:
Now you need to find a wire with power, in the gap of which we mount a resistor. This cooler has 3 wires: black (GND), red (+ 12V) and yellow (tachometer contact).
We cut red, we clean and ludim.
Now we need a variable resistor with a resistance of 100 - 300 ohms and a power of 2-5 watts . My cooler is rated at 0.18 A and 1.7 watts. If the resistor is designed for less power than the power in the circuit, it will warm up and eventually burn out. As suggested by exdeniz , PPB-3A 3W 220 Ohm is perfect for our purposes. Such as I have a variable resistor, 3 contacts. I will not go into details, just solder 1 wire to the middle contact and one extreme, and the second to the remaining extreme (You can learn the details with a multimeter / ohmmeter. Thanks to guessss_who for the comment ).
Now we mount the fan into the case and find a suitable place for mounting the resistor.
I decided to insert it like this:
The resistor has a nut for attachment to the plane. Please note that the body is metallic and may short-circuit the resistor and it will not work, so cut out an insulator gasket from plastic or cardboard. My contacts are not closed, fortunately, so there are no gaskets in the photo.
Now the most important thing is the field test.
I turned on the system, opened the PSU case and with the pyrometer I found the hottest part (this element seems to be a transistor that is cooled by a radiator). Then he closed, unscrewed the resistor at maximum speed and waited 20-30 minutes ... The element warmed up to 26.3 ° C.
Then he set the resistor to half, the noise is no longer audible, again he waited 30 minutes ... The element warmed up to 26.7 ° C.
Again I lower the speed to a minimum (~ 100 ohms), wait 30 minutes, I don’t hear any noise from the cooler at all ... The element warmed up to 28.1 ° C.
I do not know what kind of element it is and what is its working temperature, but I think that it will withstand another 5-10 degrees. But if we take into account that the “half” of the noise resistor was no longer there, then we don’t need anything else! =)
Now you can make such a panel, as I quoted at the beginning of the article and it will cost you a penny.
Thank.
UPD: Thanks to the gentlemen of the comments, for reminding us about watts.
UPD: If you are interested in the topic and you know what a soldering iron is, then you can easily assemble an analog reobas. As the fleshy tells us, the Analog Reobas article describes this wonderful device. Even if you have never soldered fees, you can collect reobas. The article contains a lot of text, which I do not understand, but the main thing: Composition, Scheme, Motazh ( in this section there are links to all the necessary articles on soldering ).
We can do without wood and flash drives.
This is my first post, in the following I will talk about how to make video surveillance, liquid cooling system, automated (programmable) lighting and much more tasty, we will solder, drill and flash chips, but for now we will start with the simplest, but nevertheless , highly efficient reception: mounting a variable resistor.
')
The noise from the cooler depends on the number of revolutions, the shape of the blades, the type of bearings and other things. The greater the number of revolutions, the more efficient the cooling, and the more noise. Not always and everywhere need 1600 rpm. and if we lower them, the temperature will rise by a few degrees, which is not critical, and the noise can disappear altogether!
On modern motherboards integrated management of the speed of the coolers that are powered by it. In BIOS, you can set a “reasonable” cut, which will change the speed of the coolers depending on the temperature of the cooled chipset. But on the old and budget boards there is no such option, and how to deal with other coolers, for example, a BP cooler or case cooler? To do this, you can mount a variable resistor in the cooler's power supply circuit, such systems sell, but they cost incredible money, considering that the cost price of such a system is about 1.5 - 2 dollars! Such a system sells for $ 40:
You can do it yourself, using as a panel - a plug from your system unit (plug into the basket where DVD / CD drives are inserted), and you will learn about other things from this post.
Further, I will describe the process on the example of working with BP, but it is identical in all cases.
Because I broke off 1 blade from the cooler on the power supply unit, I bought a new one on ball bearings, it is much quieter than usual:
Now you need to find a wire with power, in the gap of which we mount a resistor. This cooler has 3 wires: black (GND), red (+ 12V) and yellow (tachometer contact).
We cut red, we clean and ludim.
Now we need a variable resistor with a resistance of 100 - 300 ohms and a power of 2-5 watts . My cooler is rated at 0.18 A and 1.7 watts. If the resistor is designed for less power than the power in the circuit, it will warm up and eventually burn out. As suggested by exdeniz , PPB-3A 3W 220 Ohm is perfect for our purposes. Such as I have a variable resistor, 3 contacts. I will not go into details, just solder 1 wire to the middle contact and one extreme, and the second to the remaining extreme (You can learn the details with a multimeter / ohmmeter. Thanks to guessss_who for the comment ).
Now we mount the fan into the case and find a suitable place for mounting the resistor.
I decided to insert it like this:
The resistor has a nut for attachment to the plane. Please note that the body is metallic and may short-circuit the resistor and it will not work, so cut out an insulator gasket from plastic or cardboard. My contacts are not closed, fortunately, so there are no gaskets in the photo.
Now the most important thing is the field test.
I turned on the system, opened the PSU case and with the pyrometer I found the hottest part (this element seems to be a transistor that is cooled by a radiator). Then he closed, unscrewed the resistor at maximum speed and waited 20-30 minutes ... The element warmed up to 26.3 ° C.
Then he set the resistor to half, the noise is no longer audible, again he waited 30 minutes ... The element warmed up to 26.7 ° C.
Again I lower the speed to a minimum (~ 100 ohms), wait 30 minutes, I don’t hear any noise from the cooler at all ... The element warmed up to 28.1 ° C.
I do not know what kind of element it is and what is its working temperature, but I think that it will withstand another 5-10 degrees. But if we take into account that the “half” of the noise resistor was no longer there, then we don’t need anything else! =)
Now you can make such a panel, as I quoted at the beginning of the article and it will cost you a penny.
Thank.
UPD: Thanks to the gentlemen of the comments, for reminding us about watts.
UPD: If you are interested in the topic and you know what a soldering iron is, then you can easily assemble an analog reobas. As the fleshy tells us, the Analog Reobas article describes this wonderful device. Even if you have never soldered fees, you can collect reobas. The article contains a lot of text, which I do not understand, but the main thing: Composition, Scheme, Motazh ( in this section there are links to all the necessary articles on soldering ).
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/89951/
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