Repair of power supplies from routers and other Asus and D-Link equipment in 10 minutes
I decided to write this post, after reading numerous comments that many had to change the router, as it began to blink with all the lights in a row, it stopped loading and stitching! Persistently using the "Search", the description of this problem, to my great surprise, I did not find on Habré. Although the problem is known for a long time and is described in RuNet. It happens, according to the law of meanness, the next day how the guarantee will end. And usually after 1.5-2.5 years of operation. All because of the fault, in 90% of cases, only the power supply (hereinafter - BP). The repair service centers refuse, because the warranty is over or the new power unit is being sold at a price from 700 to 1200 rubles. This problem happens in 3 out of 10 routers equipped with these power supplies. Usually, BPs are produced by third-party companies, and all the “enthusiastic” user reviews about the reliability of the equipment come from D-Link and Asus! The cost of parts for repair - 10 rubles!
So, let's begin!
Asus power supply on the left, D-Link power supply on the right. They have one scheme, there are minor changes in the nominal components. The vilest thing is that the BP issues 5V to it and the user removes suspicions from it. But under load the voltage sags up to 2V, and nobody checks this!
For repair, we will need: soldering iron with solder, stationery knife and electrical tape. Instead of a clerical knife, I use boron-typewriter (popularly called “Dremel”, derived from the name of the company DREMEL ). We open the case, it is glued, from someone, it turns out to cut the glue layer along the seam, I'm too lazy to pick one another, I saw with a “Dremel”. We see inside the board with a swollen electrolytic capacitor (the picture is not mine, I have already changed the condender):
')
We solder the swollen capacitor 1200uF 10V, in its place we put any electrolytic with parameters 1000uF-1200uF 10-16V (1200 uF 10 V, 1200uF 10V, 1000uF 16V, etc.). Also, it is better to immediately replace the electrolytic capacitor (it “starts” the PSU) 10uF 25V by 10uF 50V. Do not forget to observe the polarity! We get:
Putting the body back. I do not recommend sticking, because in 1.5 years, you may have to change capacitors again! :) I usually collect on duct tape.
In this way, I have restored 5 power supply units that are still working properly. I think this procedure is under the power of any Habrazhitelu!
So, let's begin!
Asus power supply on the left, D-Link power supply on the right. They have one scheme, there are minor changes in the nominal components. The vilest thing is that the BP issues 5V to it and the user removes suspicions from it. But under load the voltage sags up to 2V, and nobody checks this!
For repair, we will need: soldering iron with solder, stationery knife and electrical tape. Instead of a clerical knife, I use boron-typewriter (popularly called “Dremel”, derived from the name of the company DREMEL ). We open the case, it is glued, from someone, it turns out to cut the glue layer along the seam, I'm too lazy to pick one another, I saw with a “Dremel”. We see inside the board with a swollen electrolytic capacitor (the picture is not mine, I have already changed the condender):
')
We solder the swollen capacitor 1200uF 10V, in its place we put any electrolytic with parameters 1000uF-1200uF 10-16V (1200 uF 10 V, 1200uF 10V, 1000uF 16V, etc.). Also, it is better to immediately replace the electrolytic capacitor (it “starts” the PSU) 10uF 25V by 10uF 50V. Do not forget to observe the polarity! We get:
Putting the body back. I do not recommend sticking, because in 1.5 years, you may have to change capacitors again! :) I usually collect on duct tape.
In this way, I have restored 5 power supply units that are still working properly. I think this procedure is under the power of any Habrazhitelu!
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/86866/
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