The price of victory. Preparing the Mini-Z for the competition

Often a newcomer, who came to the competition for the first time, is frightened by the speeds driven by the leaders' cars, and having driven 1-2 stages go disappointed in the Mini-Z class. What you need to do with the Mini-Z after the purchase in order for you to enjoy the participation in races and be competitive, will be discussed in this article:


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1) The first thing you need is the chassis itself.

By buying a chassis you need to approach with a cold heart. No need to throw on the beautiful body and all there spoilers and bumpers with aerodynamic wings! No need to put on the car lights and all the glowing gadgets ... the weight of the car is a very important factor!



Race is not an exhibition, it is a struggle! After 2-3 races you will collect pieces from your spoilers, wings, glass from headlights and a mirror on the track!
To participate in the competition must be approached on the basis of the practicality of using both the chassis and the body. If you want a beautiful body, then buy two bodies ... one for racing, and the second to decorate your shelf at home and pleases you.

Some facts recognized in the whole world:

• the entire MR-02 chassis series is more resistant to upheavals (rollover) than the MR-01 or MR-015 chassis, due to the lower center of gravity
• the MR-02MM and MR-02LM chassis are more stable on the track than the MR-02RM series chassis
• for the most part, McLaren F1 and Ferrari Enzo are considered the most stable bodies on the track.

2) You need to purchase a transponder for serif

The notch is a device that allows you to mark the lap time to thousandths of a second and the total race time during a race.



The transponder for the Mini-Z is a small board that is located under the body of your little car and is powered by car batteries.



*** ATTENTION: The transponder is connected to the battery terminals and not to the motor contacts!

3) You need to stock up batteries in the remote and in the car itself

The AM 27MHz remote requires 8 AA batteries, and a new transmitter operating in the 2.4GHz band requires 4 AAA batteries. The brand of batteries does not really matter ... the more capacity, the longer the transmitter works!

The selection of batteries with the Mini-Z itself must be approached more carefully. What batteries to buy, you decide!

The world has well recommended batteries from Intellect , Team Orion , R1Wurks (in the markets or in stores in Russia, these batteries can not look ... these batteries are brought only to order)



To participate in the competition, it is desirable to have at least 3 sets of AAA batteries. While you are riding one set, the second is charging, the third is resting!

4) You need to buy a charger

Recommendations are the following - the charger should charge both AA-size and AAA-size batteries. In other words, to charge the batteries into the console and into the car itself.

The charger should be able to charge at least 4 batteries in 1 hour !!! It is desirable that the charger had a side charge and battery discharge function - this will extend the battery life!



About one of the best chargers that use Mini-Zetchiki around the world, there is a separate article Charger for AAA or AA batteries

5) It is necessary to buy several sets of rubber (tires)



The rubber attached to your Mini-Z in the factory box is not suitable for use on the carpet. You need to buy softer rubber. And, as a rule, tires are worn on the rear wheels softer than on the front ones!

MINIMUM COST ESTIMATES:

Mini-Z Racer MR-02MM - 4650 rub.
Transponder - 1350 rubles.
AA batteries in the remote (8 pieces) - 800 rubles.
AAA batteries in the car (4 pieces) - 400 rubles.
Charger - 800 rubles.
Rubber (2 sets) - 400 rubles.
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TOTAL minimum: 8400 rub.

PREPARATION Mini-Z Racer FOR PARTICIPATION IN THE CLASS "For beginners"

Sometimes, in various championships, individual races are held, in which newcomers from the Mini-Z with minimal tuning take part ... essentially “bought and gone”, but it is advisable to get ready!

1) ENGINE PREPARATION

In the "For beginners" class, participation is allowed only on standard Kyosho engines! But each rule, as you know, has exceptions. The engine, which is sold with the new machine, usually has less power than engines, which are sold separately as an option.

The first thing you need is to change the engine! You must purchase a new standard engine.



It is advisable to replace the standard wires with silicone ones after purchasing the engine. The fact is that standard wires are quite tough and over time they break.

Before you put the engine on the car it is desirable to break in. When you buy an engine, the engine brushes are square, and the engine manifold is cylindrical. In order for the brushes to take the form of a collector, run-in is performed. How to run in the engine can be found in the article: Running in the engine for the Mini-Z

The standard motor has no bearings in the housing. The motor shaft rotates in fixed sleeves on the motor housing. To reduce friction of the motor shaft on the bushings, it is desirable to use special lubricants. The choice of lubricants - a personal matter of each rider. I can not give advice, a lot of lubricants.

To reduce sparking and better friction of the brushes on the engine manifold, a drop of conductive oil can be dropped onto the engine collector before each race. This will extend the life of your engine. I use oil Slick7 Voodoo

2) PREPARATION OF ELECTRONICS

FETs: FETs (field effect transistors) of the HAT3004 or HAT3010 series are installed on a standard machine. According to the new regulations, which will be valid at the 2009-2010 competition, in the class “For beginners” it is allowed to change the above-named FETs for any other analogue in the SO-8 package. You can install no more than two FETs per channel!

Additionally, you can read: What is FET? Where to buy FET? How to change FET? FET rating

If you plan to participate in competitions, then I recommend to replace standard FETs with more powerful ones immediately.

There are a few weaknesses in electronics:

Wires: all wires that are installed in the Mini-Z are quite tough and over time they break and break. Most often, according to the “law of meanness”, this happens when you have a real chance to win the race. In order not to fall under the action of this “miracle law” it is desirable to solder all the wires that are inside the Mini-Z to silicone ones.

Antenna: deserves special attention. It is advisable to solder “tightly” at the junction with the antenna, so that there is one hundred percent contact.

3) PREPARE CHASSIS

Wheels: during the race, the standard car can roll over. To reduce the percentage of coups, it is advisable to put the wheels on the car with the maximum possible reach.

When installing discs with non-standard outreach, you should pay attention to the fact that discs with a long reach can cling to the car body. In this case, the wheel arches must be increased (sawed) so that at the maximum angle of rotation of the wheels or the inclination of the chassis, the rubber does not cling to the body.

Bushes in disks: it is prohibited to use bearings in the “For new things” class, you should ride on standard plastic bushes, which come as standard with Mini-Z. Watch for the bushes ... over time, the holes in them increase and need to be changed so that there is no beating of the wheels. Before the race, liquid friction oil can drip into the bushes - this will reduce friction and wear on the wheel hubs.

Nuts: standard, plastic nuts are not reliable. They may unscrew during the race and you will lose the wheel. It is advisable to immediately replace them with optional aluminum nuts with nylon inserts. And besides, a drop of Loktayt (Loctite) does not hurt.



Attaching the motor mount: on the standard chassis of the motor mount mounted on a so-called T-plate (T-bar) made of plastic. Standard plate - the first thing that breaks down in the Mini-Z, if someone enters your “ass”.

It is advisable to purchase a set of carbon plates and, thereby, you will save yourself from such troubles. Carbon plates are more durable and, in addition, have a different thickness of the middle part. By selecting them, the stiffness of the rear suspension is adjusted.



Gears for motor (pinyony): the standard set has 4 plastic gears for 6,7,8,9 teeth. Plastic gears are not very durable. It is advisable to purchase a set of gears from Delrin - they are more durable.

Determining that the gears have worn out is very simple. Mini-Z on the track begins to squeal very much. Well-built and well-groomed Mini-Z moves very quietly on the highway!



Rubber: the choice of rubber is a personal matter. But rubber in the race has one unpleasant feature - it can easily fly off the disk. To prevent such an accident, it is best to glue the rubber to the disks on a thin double-sided tape or special glue

*** GOOD ADVICE

Keep your Mini-Z clean !!! Get a thick brush. After each arrival, shake off all dirt and dust from the chassis. One grain of sand can bend gear teeth. One hair on the front cam axis is able to jam the wheel rotation.
Inspect the Mini-Z carefully before entering !!! Microcrack on the mount of the motor mount - and you will never adjust the neutral position of the steering wheel! Do not overheat the engine - 5-7 minutes and rest!

BUDGET OF CHASSIS PREPARATION for participation in the class “For beginners”

Mini-Z Racer MR-02MM - 4650 rub.
Transponder - 1350 rubles.
AA batteries in the remote (8 pieces) - 800 rubles.
AAA batteries in the car (4 pieces) - 400 rubles.
Charger - 800 rubles.
Rubber (2 sets) - 400 rubles.
Optional engine - 480 rubles.
Gears on the shaft of the engine Delrin - 336 rubles.
Carbon T-plates - 555 rubles.
IRF7317 transistors (2 pcs.) - 100 rubles.
Aluminum wheel nuts - 168 rubles.
Wires, lubricants, tape, etc. - 500 rub.
____________________________________________________
TOTAL: 10 539 rubles.

PREPARATION OF THE Mini-Z Racer FOR PARTICIPATION IN THE CLASS “STOCK” and “MODIFIED”

STOCK - Restrictions are as follows: car weight; make and model of the motor is stipulated in the technical regulations in each individual championship; restrictions on the use of highly advanced electronics ... and the rest of the class "Stock" is very similar to the class "Modified".

MODIFIED - class without restrictions. Sometimes in the championships in this class are allowed to use any chassis from any manufacturer on a scale of 1: 28-1: 24! But the palm still takes the Kyosho chassis, although in this class more and more worthy alternatives appear every year. Modified is an expensive high speed class. So how to achieve 100% handling at high speeds from a small car?

1) ENGINE

Engines for the class Stock and Modified produce quite a few. The most affordable option in Russia is the Kyosho X-Speed ​​engine (20,000 rpm). But the fastest mass-produced engine is ATOMIC Chili (43,000 - 44,000 rpm). What to choose - you decide! The list of engines for the Mini-Z can be found here.
It is necessary to look after such engines also, as well as for any engine of the class "For beginners". For engines of the Modified class, brushes of various materials, magnets, springs, rotors (fittings), and housings are produced separately. In fact, you can assemble the engine yourself for yourself by ordering all the parts.



2) PREPARATION OF ELECTRONICS

Depending on the engine you will use, you need to change the Mini-Z electronics.

Engines for the Mini-Z are divided into two classes:

• Stock engines - do not require intervention in electronics and can operate on standard FETs
• Modified engines - for the application of such engines it is necessary to interfere with standard Mini-Z electronics.

If you are going to use a Modified class engine, then instead of standard FETs, you need to solder at least 6 more powerful FETs (3 FETs per channel) or purchase an external turbo module. The turbo module is a small board that is mounted outside the Mini-Z “skeleton” and is an electronic circuit on more powerful transistors!

The Kyosho X-Speed ​​engine is a Stock class engine and replacement of FETs is optional!

3) PREPARE CHASSIS

Breakdowns in the Modified class are common. Great speeds - big crashes! The chassis needs to be strengthened and this is achieved through tuning parts.

Motrama: high engine speeds - high temperatures! It's unavoidable! A standard plastic engine may not withstand both loads and temperatures. It is advisable to change the motor on the aluminum. Aluminum motors are manufactured by the following companies: Kyosho, GPM, Iwaver, 3Racing, Atomic, PN Racing . Fundamentally moramy different from each other motor mount. The engine can be screwed to the engine mount with bolts, or mounted with spacers or sliders. In addition, in some engines, you can change the clearance of the rear suspension by replacing plastic inserts for bearings in which the differential is mounted.



Differential: The standard satellite differential is not suitable for high speed engines. It simply does not work at high speeds (scrolls to idle). In the Modified class, it is necessary to use ball differentials. It is both convenient and reliable. In addition, you can customize the idle scroll (sorry for the tautology).
Ball differentials practically do not differ from each other in design. Depending on the manufacturer, ball differentials are available with steel or titanium axes, steel or ceramic balls (from 6 to 12 balls). In some differentials, in addition to the balls, a ball bearing can be inserted into the gear. In addition, you can always additionally buy a large gear with a smaller number of teeth - 44 teeth (standard), and also gears for 43, 42 and 41 teeth.



*** GOOD ADVICE

Do not forget to take care of the differential! Clean the gear from dirt after each arrival and occasionally lubricate !!!

Front cams: It is advisable to replace standard (plastic) cams with aluminum ones. Cams are available with different angles defining camber. It is advisable to put the cams with a maximum angle of collapse - 2 or 3 degrees.



*** GOOD ADVICE

Lubricate the axis on which the cams move !!!

Steering racks: In addition, it is worth stocking up with steering racks that determine the wheel convergence ... the steering racks are available with both positive and negative angles. Reiki can be put both from plastic, and from aluminum. If you do not strongly beat the wheels in the side of the track, the plastic slats live long enough!



Front springs: You also have to fork out the front suspension springs. Springs are available in different stiffness - soft, medium and hard. What to use, you decide!



“Skeleton” (case): The standard machine is a plastic skeleton gray. In the Modified class, it is desirable to use the “native” skeleton - it is more durable than its transparent (optional) brothers! It happens that on the skeleton in the Modified class the front cam attachments break off. To enhance these mounts, you can use carbon plates, which are produced by Atomic :



You can completely replace these mounts with aluminum casters from PN Racing . To do this, you will have to completely cut off the standard plastic mounts, and in their place put the aluminum front suspension mount. Such an attachment becomes standard Mini-Z holes ... you don’t need to drill anything!



Rear shock absorber and damper: In order for your Mini-Z to be more stable (without jumping) going into corners, you will have to purchase the optional rear shock absorber. Shock absorbers are available gas-filled and oil-filled. What to choose, you decide.



In addition to the shock absorber on the rear suspension Mini-Z can be put damper. Due to the friction plates, the damper very well dampens all vibrations of the rear suspension, but it also limits the suspension travel. Damper can be used both separately and in conjunction with the shock absorber.



Bearings: Standard plastic bushings will not withstand the stresses that we have in the Modified class. All plastic wheel hubs and motors must be replaced with ball bearings. On the Mini-Z, 7 steel or ceramic ball bearings are installed.



*** GOOD ADVICE

Do not forget to care for the bearings! Occasionally grease and sometimes they must be removed and rinsed in special solvents !!!

Body: In the Modified class, it is desirable to use the widest and lowest body. Especially for this class, the company PN Racing and the company Atomic produces plastic body.



The weakest point of the body is its mount! It is desirable to replace the front plastic plate, which is screwed to the skeleton for attaching the body, to an aluminum equivalent.



*** GOOD ADVICE

When you take part in races, use scotch. During the contact of the body with the side of the track or strikes on the cars of rivals, the body can fly off the chassis. Primatvayte tape body to the chassis !!!

MEDIUM BUDGET OF PREPARING CHASSIS for participation in the class “Modified”

Mini-Z Racer MR-02MM - 4650 rub.
Transponder - 1350 rubles.
AA batteries in the remote (8 pieces) - 800 rubles.
AAA batteries in the car (4 pieces) - 400 rubles.
Charger - 800 rubles.
Rubber (2 sets) - 400 rubles.
Engine Kyosho X-Speed ​​- 900 rubles.
Gears on the shaft of the engine Delrin - 336 rubles.
Carbon H-plates - 555 rubles.
IRF7317 transistors (2 pcs.) - 100 rubles.
Aluminum wheel nuts - 168 rubles.
Wires, lubricants, tape, etc. - 500 rub.
Steering racks (plastic kit) - 270 rubles.
Kyosho aluminum cams - 690 rubles.
Kyosho ball differential - 1570 rubles.
Kyosho oil shock absorber - 561 rubles.
Kyosho steel bearings - 1140 rubles.
Front springs (set) - 336 rubles.
Aluminum Kyora hopper - 1290 rubles.
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TOTAL: 16 816 rubles.

To prepare a chassis that will be competitive at the world level for holding such competitions in the MODIFIED class, it is necessary to spend:

In Russian stores:

Mini-Z Racer MR-02MM - 4650 rub.
Transponder - 1350 rubles.
AA batteries in the remote (8 pieces) - 800 rubles.
Gears on the shaft of the engine Delrin - 336 rubles.
Aluminum wheel nuts - 168 rubles.
Wires, lubricants, tape, etc. - 500 rub.
Steering racks (plastic kit) - 270 rubles.
Futaba 3PK equipment - 9665 rubles.

In foreign online stores:

Intellect 750 AAA batteries per car (minimum 3 sets) - 36USD
Smart Charger - 50USD
Atomic rubber (2 sets) - 13USD
Engine Atomic Chili - 33USD
Atomic Aluminum Cams - 16USD
Ball differential PN Racing (ceramics) - 30USD
Lightweight Titanium Differential Axis PN Racing - 15USD
Ceramic bearings PN Racing - 40USD
Front springs (set) PN Racing - 6USD
Aluminum motor ram PN Racing - 29USD
Atomic Damper - 29USD
Atomic damper absorber - 15USD
Carbon H-plates PN Racing - 12USD
Aluminum spacer under the PN Racing H-plate - 6USD
Aluminum support front suspension PN Racing - 23USD
External turbo module - 50USD
Body Atomic VDS II - 22USD
Atomic VDS Aluminum Body Mount - 8USD
AM 27 MHz module for Futaba 3 PK - 50USD
Slow delivery from 4 online stores - 100USD
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TOTAL: 17 739 rub. + (583USD * 32 rubles.) = 36,395 rubles.

Here, perhaps, is all the wisdom for the beginner Mini-Zetchika, who wants to achieve good results when participating in competitions. But do not forget the fact that no one except you will not operate the machine in which you invest money.

Regular training is the secret of success in any competition!

Many of today's leaders of the competition only last year took the remote control in their hands for the first time, and today they are worthy competition to the veterans of the Russian auto sport!

The original article was published on the site of the Russian Mini-Z Club.