Silent do-it-yourself computer
The computer has long become the same common object in the house, as for example a refrigerator. But for some reason, many computer users, especially those who are not very “advanced”, believe that a modern computer should make noise. He's powerful, he needs a power supply unit of XXX watts, and noise is inevitable. However, for most typical home configurations, this is not the case. They can be made at least quiet, if not completely silent. Further I will tell how to achieve this without significant financial investments with simple and affordable means.
Immediately clarify, I describe the typical home and office configuration. Computers harsh gamers with two graphics cards, overclocked quad-core processors - a completely different story (although if desired, and the necessary investment, they can also be made quiet). And let me be an example of such a typical configuration: AMD Athlon X2 4850e, MSI K9NGM4-F V.2, 3 Gb DDRII, Radeon X800GT, Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500Gb, DVD, Asus Ascot 6AR, BP: FSP ATX400-PNF
Sources of noise in the computer, by and large 3: fans (coolers), hard drives, DVD drives. There are two types of noise: the sound of air flow and vibration. And the rule is: less noise sources - less system noise. Therefore, the global goal looks trivial: minimize the number of noise sources and reduce the amount of noise from each remaining source.
First of all, let's define simple things. The silent fan is the one that does not spin at all, the quiet one that turns no more than 800 revolutions per minute. The larger the fan blades, the greater the air flow at equal speeds. The larger the area of ​​the cooled surface - the better the cooling occurs. Minimum airflow is better than fully passive cooling about 3 times. Finally, the less heat is generated, the simpler cooling systems are needed.
At the moment, the best option in terms of noise level / efficiency for a quiet system are 120mm fans with a small number of turns from 12V (up to 1000 per minute).
In a typical system unit, the fans can be: on a chipset, a video card, a processor, a hard disk, in a power supply unit, on a case (for blowing and blowing). Consider them all.
')
Most modern motherboards come with passive cooling systems. That is just a radiator, without a fan on it. It would seem that all is well, but not here it was. The fact is that motherboard manufacturers do not expect that there may not be a fan on the processor, and the air movement inside the case will be insignificant due to the lack of exhaust fans. Therefore, the options are fundamentally 2: replace the radiator on the chipset with a more powerful one and leave it passive, or use additional airflow. If you have a radiator with a fan, you can simply remove the fan, and blow the existing radiator separately. A more correct option is to replace the radiator on the chipset with a more powerful one. For example, Zalman ZM-NBF47 or Zalman ZM-NB47J
Before buying a radiator, you need to make sure that it fits the current model of the motherboard. First, the existing heatsink can be glued to the chipset with hot melt and will be removed very problematically, plus there is a risk of damage to the motherboard or chipset. Secondly, an unsuccessful arrangement of the chipset relative to the video card or processor, the proximity of the capacitors, the atypical arrangement of the mounting holes on the motherboard can prevent.
Conclusion: get rid of the fan on the chipset anyway. It is desirable to replace the powerful radiator.
Modern industry produces quite powerful video cards with passive cooling. Therefore, the easiest option is to take just that. As in the case of motherboard manufacturers, the same problems are possible here: not everyone expects that there may be poor ventilation in the case. Therefore, when choosing a video card, it is better to look at the size of the radiator. If the radiators are located on both sides of the video card, this is an additional plus. If you need a sufficiently powerful video card that is not passive or you don’t want to change the existing one, the solution to the problem is to purchase a separate passive radiator, for example, Zalman ZM80D-HP . I have been using such a radiator for a long time, it provides passive cooling for many video cards (including my X800GT, which consumes up to 55 W under load). In addition, this radiator has a great bonus: you can install a 120mm fan on it, which will blow not only the video card, but also the chipset and the processor.
X800GT with ZM80D-HP installed.
As a cheaper alternative to upgrading a video card or buying an expensive radiator, I can suggest disabling the standard fan, removing the cover from the radiator (if any), and blowing the video card with a separate fan that will simply stand at the bottom of the system unit or hang at the level of the video card. The quality of cooling is likely to decrease, but if, according to the test results, the temperature is not critical, then you can leave it that way.
For those who do not need games, I can recommend to look in the direction of motherboards with integrated video. The integrated Geforce8200 is not bad, and now motherboards have begun to appear on the faster Geforce9300. However, it is worth considering that for such boards, the chipset will have to be blown in any case, even if the manufacturer has installed only a radiator.
Conclusion: it is better to buy a video card immediately with passive cooling, or make cooling passive.
Almost everywhere on the processor is a fan, from which it is quite difficult to get rid of. The problem must be solved in the complex: reduce the heat dissipation of the processor and buy a powerful radiator.
If you can, you need to take a processor from the energy efficient series. For example, AMD has 2 similar models: Athlon X2 4800+ and Athlon X2 4850e. The performance is identical, but TDP differs by 20 W: 65 vs. 45. The second way to reduce heat generation is to lower the frequency and voltage. All modern processors support the possibility of reducing the frequency during idle times and increasing to the nominal value when a load occurs. There are various third-party programs that control this process. In whist, this functionality is built in; you just need to put the processor driver and delve into the control panel in the “Power Supply” section.
The radiator on the processor must be large and on the heat pipes. At the moment - it is a fact. For myself, after reading numerous reviews, I stopped at the Ice hammer 4400B model, as the most optimal in terms of price / quality ratio. Review can be found here . An additional advantage of this radiator is the presence of a variable resistor in the kit, which allows you to smoothly adjust the fan speed.
With such sizes, in many cases, a fan to the processor will not be needed at all.
Conclusion: use a powerful radiator, adjust the dynamic frequency and voltage control depending on the load. If possible, use an energy efficient processor.
Some users put additional cooling on the hard disk in the form of a plate with two very noisy fans. My opinion: do not need to bet, if it is worth - you need to remove. If the temperature of the hard drive reaches 50 degrees - it is necessary to cool it, but it is better to do this by blowing 120mm fan. In my case, the basket for hard drives can be regularly blown with a 120mm fan. You can also install passive cooling on heat pipes.
Some models of hard drives (especially old ones) whistle at work. You can try using the utilities manufacturers due to the speed of work will reduce their noise level. But the miracle will not happen. Whistling hard drive you just need to sell and buy a new one, preferably single plate: less plates inside the disk - less noise and vibration.
The most critical part of the system unit. It is impossible to completely turn off the fan, in addition it is very difficult to quantify how good / bad the power supply is at the moment. Also, all improvements to the PSU cooling system lead to a loss of warranty. The most reasonable way is to sell the current power supply if it has a 80mm fan (on the back cover) and replace it with a BP of a proven brand with a 120mm fan at the bottom. In addition to the reduced noise level, we receive heat removal directly from the processor and its release outside the case. Accordingly, no exhaust fan is needed.
In modern power supplies are actively installed thermal control systems that control the fan speed. They do it not very well. In addition, in many power supplies, the fans themselves are used in terms of noise average. To get silence you have to disassemble the power supply, turn off the thermal control circuit and change the fan. I repeat: it voids the warranty.
Open the unit, snack on the wires to the fan, turn off the old one and put a new fan in there. Those who can hold a soldering iron in their hands can solder the fan directly to the power supply board.
I prefer to connect a new fan outside the power supply. First, do not need to solder the board / no twists in the PSU. Secondly, there is an additional freedom in the place and method of connection and an additional bonus in the form of monitoring the speed of rotation of the fans.
Conclusion: buying a quiet power supply. And (or) manual completion of cooling by replacing the fan and turning off the thermal control circuit.
All fans operate on 12V, while there is a way to make it work more quietly, at lower speeds, lowering the input voltage. You can solder a resistor (but the problem is to find the right one), you can make it easier: hang the fan at 7V. 7B is obtained when the “ground” of the fan is connected to + 5V. As a result, between + 5V and + 12V, the potential difference is 7V.
In this case, the fan runs noticeably quieter, but there is a possibility that it will not unwind from undervoltage. Here it is necessary to experiment and check.
An example of soldering a resistor. In the photo there is a ready adapter and a fan on the processor, but the essence does not change.
I have a fan from the power supply unit connected to the motherboard through a variable resistor from IceHammer 4400B. This makes it possible to monitor the speed + optimally adjust the rotation speed. For BP, I set the speed to 600 rpm. Additional hint: unwanted wires easily fit in the space between the upper cover of the power supply and the case.
My opinion: not needed. If there are no strongly powerful heat sources inside the system unit, and the power supply unit pulls the air out, there is nothing to dissipate extra noise. But if you put it - it must be 120mm fans and preferably at 7V. Again, not all housings can be equipped with 120mm fans, but this does not apply to most modern high-quality and spacious housings: everywhere there are mounts under 120mm
Earlier, I referred to the use of fans for blown chipset, video card, power supply. There are 2 rules:
For me, the best options is the rotational speed of a 120mm fan at 400 - 600 rpm. Less, they just do not unwind, and the air flow is too weak.
I prefer to use Glacial Tech <GT12025HDLA-1>. From 12V, they give 950 - 1000 rpm and are quiet enough in themselves - this is the first. Second, they come with a connector, like on IDE disks. And on this connector is +5 and + 12V. This means that it can be easily powered from + 7V in a couple of minutes. The third - from + 7V they give out about 500 turns and work almost silently in this version.
An alternative is the Titan Green Vision 120 [TFD-12025GT12Z]. It gives 800-900 turns from + 12V, but it can be connected only to the motherboard and is not unwound from 7V. Plus: it is transparent, which will appeal to fans of modding and beautiful cases.
Conclusion: Glacial Tech <GT12025HDLA-1> is the best option. Especially considering the price of 100-120r.
Here are general photos of my system unit assembly
I have 2 fans in my system. One in the power supply, 120mm, rotates at 600 rpm. Another one blows a video card, a chipset and a bit of a processor, also 120mm, rotates at 400 revolutions. In principle, it is possible without it, but it makes no sense: the fan cannot be removed from the power supply unit, and the noise of the second can not be heard at much lower speeds. The general level of noise is such that in order to determine whether the computer is working or not, you should listen during the day. A couple of times I tried to turn on an already turned on computer.
Further development is impossible without water cooling. Only in this case it will be possible to replace it with a passive power supply unit (for example, FSP Zen), to cool the hard drive with water, which will allow it to be removed in a box that reliably dampens vibrations. However, the water pump also makes some noise :)
The final touch is the reduction of vibrations from the components of the system unit. Vibrate fans, hard drive and DVD drive.
Vibration from fans up to 1000 revolutions per minute can be neglected (if vibration is still going on, try replacing with another fan). At higher revs, you can fight by putting special rubber pads or double-sided tape at the attachment points, but it is easier to reduce the fan speed. I use a DVD-drive very rarely, and you can suffer. Besides, it's hard to do something there. There is a hard drive.
Even vibrations emanate from the quietest, which give a lot of noise in the end when the hard drive is bolted to the case. To check this, unscrew the disk from the case, take it in your hand or put vibration damping on something and wait for the operating system to load (at your own risk! Losing the file system due to bad contact of the wire can be very easy). Noise from it will be significantly less. In my case pads are provided for damping vibration from the hard drive. But I did not feel any particular difference. Therefore, we must act radically: the hard drive should not touch the computer case!
This is possible if you hang it with rubber bands in the DVD compartment. I bought gum at the pharmacy (they are called “Bint Martens”). Eraser tensioned in two places and twisted, so that they sought to unwind back. Between them, insert the hard drive. The main thing is to make sure that it does not touch the case anywhere. In the places of attachment of rubber bands to the body, you need to insert a sheet of paper so that they do not accidentally break due to contact with the metal of the body.
I had doubts about the temperature of the hard drive with this method of connection, but in practice it turned out that the temperature rarely reaches 45 degrees, despite the lack of ventilation and contact with the case. In the summer, too, it does not overheat, however, the split-system is constantly working for me, so the ambient temperature is not very different from the winter one. Current temperature components (according to SpeedFan)
Update : The comments suggested a more elegant solution to the problem of vibration, instead of rubber bands. (thanks, norguhtar )
www.scythe-eu.com/en/produkty/komplektujushchie/hard-disk-stabilizer-2.html
If there is an opportunity to buy one, it will probably be a good decision. I haven’t seen anything like this in my city, I’ll try to find it under the order and compare it.
I use Alsil thermal grease in a syringe. Good quality at an affordable price. When I recently assembled a home server, I took a regular cooler with a regular thermal interface and installed it. Everything was good until it was necessary to remove the radiator. Neither! It stuck to the processor, so I had to use force and pull it along with the processor. And this is with the lock closed. Be careful and think before you put a radiator with a thermal interface already applied from the factory!
This article describes simple and low cost ways to reduce computer noise. Of course, in each particular case, the choice of noise reduction method is individual, here I briefly tried to describe the general “direction of motion”. Comments, suggestions, questions? - Waiting in the comments!
Instead of introducing
Immediately clarify, I describe the typical home and office configuration. Computers harsh gamers with two graphics cards, overclocked quad-core processors - a completely different story (although if desired, and the necessary investment, they can also be made quiet). And let me be an example of such a typical configuration: AMD Athlon X2 4850e, MSI K9NGM4-F V.2, 3 Gb DDRII, Radeon X800GT, Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 500Gb, DVD, Asus Ascot 6AR, BP: FSP ATX400-PNF
Noise sources
Sources of noise in the computer, by and large 3: fans (coolers), hard drives, DVD drives. There are two types of noise: the sound of air flow and vibration. And the rule is: less noise sources - less system noise. Therefore, the global goal looks trivial: minimize the number of noise sources and reduce the amount of noise from each remaining source.
The noise from the fans.
First of all, let's define simple things. The silent fan is the one that does not spin at all, the quiet one that turns no more than 800 revolutions per minute. The larger the fan blades, the greater the air flow at equal speeds. The larger the area of ​​the cooled surface - the better the cooling occurs. Minimum airflow is better than fully passive cooling about 3 times. Finally, the less heat is generated, the simpler cooling systems are needed.
At the moment, the best option in terms of noise level / efficiency for a quiet system are 120mm fans with a small number of turns from 12V (up to 1000 per minute).
In a typical system unit, the fans can be: on a chipset, a video card, a processor, a hard disk, in a power supply unit, on a case (for blowing and blowing). Consider them all.
')
Chipset
Most modern motherboards come with passive cooling systems. That is just a radiator, without a fan on it. It would seem that all is well, but not here it was. The fact is that motherboard manufacturers do not expect that there may not be a fan on the processor, and the air movement inside the case will be insignificant due to the lack of exhaust fans. Therefore, the options are fundamentally 2: replace the radiator on the chipset with a more powerful one and leave it passive, or use additional airflow. If you have a radiator with a fan, you can simply remove the fan, and blow the existing radiator separately. A more correct option is to replace the radiator on the chipset with a more powerful one. For example, Zalman ZM-NBF47 or Zalman ZM-NB47J
Before buying a radiator, you need to make sure that it fits the current model of the motherboard. First, the existing heatsink can be glued to the chipset with hot melt and will be removed very problematically, plus there is a risk of damage to the motherboard or chipset. Secondly, an unsuccessful arrangement of the chipset relative to the video card or processor, the proximity of the capacitors, the atypical arrangement of the mounting holes on the motherboard can prevent.
Conclusion: get rid of the fan on the chipset anyway. It is desirable to replace the powerful radiator.
Video card
Modern industry produces quite powerful video cards with passive cooling. Therefore, the easiest option is to take just that. As in the case of motherboard manufacturers, the same problems are possible here: not everyone expects that there may be poor ventilation in the case. Therefore, when choosing a video card, it is better to look at the size of the radiator. If the radiators are located on both sides of the video card, this is an additional plus. If you need a sufficiently powerful video card that is not passive or you don’t want to change the existing one, the solution to the problem is to purchase a separate passive radiator, for example, Zalman ZM80D-HP . I have been using such a radiator for a long time, it provides passive cooling for many video cards (including my X800GT, which consumes up to 55 W under load). In addition, this radiator has a great bonus: you can install a 120mm fan on it, which will blow not only the video card, but also the chipset and the processor.
X800GT with ZM80D-HP installed.
As a cheaper alternative to upgrading a video card or buying an expensive radiator, I can suggest disabling the standard fan, removing the cover from the radiator (if any), and blowing the video card with a separate fan that will simply stand at the bottom of the system unit or hang at the level of the video card. The quality of cooling is likely to decrease, but if, according to the test results, the temperature is not critical, then you can leave it that way.
For those who do not need games, I can recommend to look in the direction of motherboards with integrated video. The integrated Geforce8200 is not bad, and now motherboards have begun to appear on the faster Geforce9300. However, it is worth considering that for such boards, the chipset will have to be blown in any case, even if the manufacturer has installed only a radiator.
Conclusion: it is better to buy a video card immediately with passive cooling, or make cooling passive.
CPU
Almost everywhere on the processor is a fan, from which it is quite difficult to get rid of. The problem must be solved in the complex: reduce the heat dissipation of the processor and buy a powerful radiator.
If you can, you need to take a processor from the energy efficient series. For example, AMD has 2 similar models: Athlon X2 4800+ and Athlon X2 4850e. The performance is identical, but TDP differs by 20 W: 65 vs. 45. The second way to reduce heat generation is to lower the frequency and voltage. All modern processors support the possibility of reducing the frequency during idle times and increasing to the nominal value when a load occurs. There are various third-party programs that control this process. In whist, this functionality is built in; you just need to put the processor driver and delve into the control panel in the “Power Supply” section.
The radiator on the processor must be large and on the heat pipes. At the moment - it is a fact. For myself, after reading numerous reviews, I stopped at the Ice hammer 4400B model, as the most optimal in terms of price / quality ratio. Review can be found here . An additional advantage of this radiator is the presence of a variable resistor in the kit, which allows you to smoothly adjust the fan speed.
With such sizes, in many cases, a fan to the processor will not be needed at all.
Conclusion: use a powerful radiator, adjust the dynamic frequency and voltage control depending on the load. If possible, use an energy efficient processor.
HDD
Some users put additional cooling on the hard disk in the form of a plate with two very noisy fans. My opinion: do not need to bet, if it is worth - you need to remove. If the temperature of the hard drive reaches 50 degrees - it is necessary to cool it, but it is better to do this by blowing 120mm fan. In my case, the basket for hard drives can be regularly blown with a 120mm fan. You can also install passive cooling on heat pipes.
Some models of hard drives (especially old ones) whistle at work. You can try using the utilities manufacturers due to the speed of work will reduce their noise level. But the miracle will not happen. Whistling hard drive you just need to sell and buy a new one, preferably single plate: less plates inside the disk - less noise and vibration.
Power Supply.
The most critical part of the system unit. It is impossible to completely turn off the fan, in addition it is very difficult to quantify how good / bad the power supply is at the moment. Also, all improvements to the PSU cooling system lead to a loss of warranty. The most reasonable way is to sell the current power supply if it has a 80mm fan (on the back cover) and replace it with a BP of a proven brand with a 120mm fan at the bottom. In addition to the reduced noise level, we receive heat removal directly from the processor and its release outside the case. Accordingly, no exhaust fan is needed.
In modern power supplies are actively installed thermal control systems that control the fan speed. They do it not very well. In addition, in many power supplies, the fans themselves are used in terms of noise average. To get silence you have to disassemble the power supply, turn off the thermal control circuit and change the fan. I repeat: it voids the warranty.
Open the unit, snack on the wires to the fan, turn off the old one and put a new fan in there. Those who can hold a soldering iron in their hands can solder the fan directly to the power supply board.
I prefer to connect a new fan outside the power supply. First, do not need to solder the board / no twists in the PSU. Secondly, there is an additional freedom in the place and method of connection and an additional bonus in the form of monitoring the speed of rotation of the fans.
Conclusion: buying a quiet power supply. And (or) manual completion of cooling by replacing the fan and turning off the thermal control circuit.
Decrease fan speed.
All fans operate on 12V, while there is a way to make it work more quietly, at lower speeds, lowering the input voltage. You can solder a resistor (but the problem is to find the right one), you can make it easier: hang the fan at 7V. 7B is obtained when the “ground” of the fan is connected to + 5V. As a result, between + 5V and + 12V, the potential difference is 7V.
In this case, the fan runs noticeably quieter, but there is a possibility that it will not unwind from undervoltage. Here it is necessary to experiment and check.
An example of soldering a resistor. In the photo there is a ready adapter and a fan on the processor, but the essence does not change.
I have a fan from the power supply unit connected to the motherboard through a variable resistor from IceHammer 4400B. This makes it possible to monitor the speed + optimally adjust the rotation speed. For BP, I set the speed to 600 rpm. Additional hint: unwanted wires easily fit in the space between the upper cover of the power supply and the case.
Fans for blowing and blowing.
My opinion: not needed. If there are no strongly powerful heat sources inside the system unit, and the power supply unit pulls the air out, there is nothing to dissipate extra noise. But if you put it - it must be 120mm fans and preferably at 7V. Again, not all housings can be equipped with 120mm fans, but this does not apply to most modern high-quality and spacious housings: everywhere there are mounts under 120mm
Fans for blowing.
Earlier, I referred to the use of fans for blown chipset, video card, power supply. There are 2 rules:
- fans, less than 120mm should not be. No one.
- The maximum rotation speed of 120mm fan is 1000 revolutions.
For me, the best options is the rotational speed of a 120mm fan at 400 - 600 rpm. Less, they just do not unwind, and the air flow is too weak.
I prefer to use Glacial Tech <GT12025HDLA-1>. From 12V, they give 950 - 1000 rpm and are quiet enough in themselves - this is the first. Second, they come with a connector, like on IDE disks. And on this connector is +5 and + 12V. This means that it can be easily powered from + 7V in a couple of minutes. The third - from + 7V they give out about 500 turns and work almost silently in this version.
An alternative is the Titan Green Vision 120 [TFD-12025GT12Z]. It gives 800-900 turns from + 12V, but it can be connected only to the motherboard and is not unwound from 7V. Plus: it is transparent, which will appeal to fans of modding and beautiful cases.
Conclusion: Glacial Tech <GT12025HDLA-1> is the best option. Especially considering the price of 100-120r.
General view of the system unit
Here are general photos of my system unit assembly
I have 2 fans in my system. One in the power supply, 120mm, rotates at 600 rpm. Another one blows a video card, a chipset and a bit of a processor, also 120mm, rotates at 400 revolutions. In principle, it is possible without it, but it makes no sense: the fan cannot be removed from the power supply unit, and the noise of the second can not be heard at much lower speeds. The general level of noise is such that in order to determine whether the computer is working or not, you should listen during the day. A couple of times I tried to turn on an already turned on computer.
Further development is impossible without water cooling. Only in this case it will be possible to replace it with a passive power supply unit (for example, FSP Zen), to cool the hard drive with water, which will allow it to be removed in a box that reliably dampens vibrations. However, the water pump also makes some noise :)
Vibration reduction
The final touch is the reduction of vibrations from the components of the system unit. Vibrate fans, hard drive and DVD drive.
Vibration from fans up to 1000 revolutions per minute can be neglected (if vibration is still going on, try replacing with another fan). At higher revs, you can fight by putting special rubber pads or double-sided tape at the attachment points, but it is easier to reduce the fan speed. I use a DVD-drive very rarely, and you can suffer. Besides, it's hard to do something there. There is a hard drive.
Even vibrations emanate from the quietest, which give a lot of noise in the end when the hard drive is bolted to the case. To check this, unscrew the disk from the case, take it in your hand or put vibration damping on something and wait for the operating system to load (at your own risk! Losing the file system due to bad contact of the wire can be very easy). Noise from it will be significantly less. In my case pads are provided for damping vibration from the hard drive. But I did not feel any particular difference. Therefore, we must act radically: the hard drive should not touch the computer case!
This is possible if you hang it with rubber bands in the DVD compartment. I bought gum at the pharmacy (they are called “Bint Martens”). Eraser tensioned in two places and twisted, so that they sought to unwind back. Between them, insert the hard drive. The main thing is to make sure that it does not touch the case anywhere. In the places of attachment of rubber bands to the body, you need to insert a sheet of paper so that they do not accidentally break due to contact with the metal of the body.
I had doubts about the temperature of the hard drive with this method of connection, but in practice it turned out that the temperature rarely reaches 45 degrees, despite the lack of ventilation and contact with the case. In the summer, too, it does not overheat, however, the split-system is constantly working for me, so the ambient temperature is not very different from the winter one. Current temperature components (according to SpeedFan)
Update : The comments suggested a more elegant solution to the problem of vibration, instead of rubber bands. (thanks, norguhtar )
www.scythe-eu.com/en/produkty/komplektujushchie/hard-disk-stabilizer-2.html
If there is an opportunity to buy one, it will probably be a good decision. I haven’t seen anything like this in my city, I’ll try to find it under the order and compare it.
Thermal interface.
I use Alsil thermal grease in a syringe. Good quality at an affordable price. When I recently assembled a home server, I took a regular cooler with a regular thermal interface and installed it. Everything was good until it was necessary to remove the radiator. Neither! It stuck to the processor, so I had to use force and pull it along with the processor. And this is with the lock closed. Be careful and think before you put a radiator with a thermal interface already applied from the factory!
Conclusion
This article describes simple and low cost ways to reduce computer noise. Of course, in each particular case, the choice of noise reduction method is individual, here I briefly tried to describe the general “direction of motion”. Comments, suggestions, questions? - Waiting in the comments!
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/48573/
All Articles