How to care for electric bikes

I love my horse, I brush her hair smoothly ...

Have you noticed that a dirty car goes worse and a computer works worse? If you think that it seems to you and this is just your emotional perception, then you are mistaken. The smallest dirt or dust can become fatal for electronics, and a weakly tightened nut in a car can be fatal not only for a car, but also for life. However, all this concerns any transport, including bicycles. And even more so e-bikes, which combine the design of transport and the advantages of electronics, and therefore accumulate typical vulnerabilities.

Recently, in our blog there was a story about how the process of assembling an electric bike proceeds if you order it in a disassembled form - using the example of Twitter Mantis-E0 . Today, as then promised - a couple of words about the care of an electric bike - using the example of the Twitter AM26-E1 dvuhvodpod.


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By the way, most of the tips will be valid for ordinary bicycles, although there will be nuances.

Even if you bought a bike in the assembled state, it does not mean that you can immediately sit on it and go. Well, the second popular misconception about the new bike is that it is new and you can not take care of it for a long time.

If you ignore the nuances, then you can collect a whole bunch of various jambs, which at best multiply by 0 all the fun of riding.

Customize

Before motoring, any motorist should always begin with a landing setting: seat → legs → back → steering wheel → headrest → mirrors. It's the same story with a bicycle, but simpler: before climbing an iron horse, you need to make sure that the wheel does not fall off, the wheel does not turn, and so on. You need to customize the bike for yourself: the position of the saddle and handlebars, as well as all the handles / switches on it. If a wrong fit in a car can forgive some flaws and allows you to get from point A to point B, then with a bicycle it is different: a permanent wrong landing will negatively affect your health (and it is more expensive than any electric bicycles) - tired back, legs, wrists, neck. Well, safety, of course.

You need to buy a bicycle with such a frame size so that it corresponds to the growth of a cyclist: there are plenty of such signs on the net. In the model range of Twitter electric bicycles there are models with frames of 15-17 inches, as well as the “universal” in TW-E9L , which we have already written about.



There are several methods for adjusting the height of the saddle (google methods of Holmes, Lemond, 109%), but the most frequently practiced is the “heel method”: sitting exactly on the saddle, in the lower position of the pedal, your foot should be fully extended at the knee.

The fact that something is wrong with the angle of the steering wheel will become clear after a long trip. The angle must be set so that during movement the wrists do not “bully” and do not strain when switching speeds and braking.



And finally : adjust the stiffness of the front shock absorber (if such a setting is provided - like, for example, Twitter AM26-E1 ). It so happens that the fork stroke is so large and light that when braking with the front brake, you can easily perform a triple toe loop.

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Modern bike (and even more so e-bike) is a complex technical mechanism. And he, like any other mechanism, requires maintenance. In this regard, it is not much different, for example, from a car, at the purchase of which you are given a service book with regulated works. Change oil, filters, shoes, discs, plugs, shock absorbers, belts / chains, etc. - during operation everything wears out or breaks, everything has its own service life.

It's easier with a bicycle than with a car: regardless of the manufacturer, there is quite a high compatibility in terms of components, you can almost always get the right one and the prices of any components are not so biting (if we are not talking about some professional products). Yes, and something needs to change less often - in most cases, you can get rid of simple maintenance. Almost all the works do not require any special tools - a set of keys / hexagons / screwdrivers is enough.

In a good way, it is necessary to check / maintain the bicycle components before each departure:

• Tire pressure (for MTB at least 2 atmospheres)
• Chain condition (contamination, lubrication, interference)
• Brakes (condition of disc and pads, adjustment of gaps, condition of hydraulic lines, handles)
• Wheel mount (pulling eccentrics), steering wheel and seat
• Backlashes (steering wheel, bushings, carriage assembly, connecting rods)
• Charge devices (headlight, tail light, main battery)

Below we will talk about the main problems and how to solve them.

Gear shifting

For many, the "star gear" is covered with a fog of ignorance and the only thing that is known about it is that it is better not to put your fingers there once again. That's right :)

What problems are most common in this part of the bike? Flying chain and poor gear shifting.

The chain can fly because of the lack of tension - in this case it is easiest to remove one or several links. Twitter's bike chains have a lock for opening (this is a more convenient option than a chain without a lock), however, there is no need to adjust the length of the chain - rather, it’s just advice for the future when it's time to change it.



Also, the chain may fly due to any deformation (in the chain or on the stars) during operation. For example, it is not recommended to drive at “extreme” speeds, in which the chain goes awry (because of what it stretches or frays over time). That is, if a bicycle has 3 * 8 = 24 speeds, then in fact it does not mean at all that it will take a long time to travel at all speeds: it is “harmful” to ride some of them.

Well, the most common problem: the circuit flies due to unregulated switches. Both on the front and rear switch there are two screws each (protruding or recessed in the body), signed as L (low, responsible for small gears - big stars) and H (high, responsible for big gears - small stars). These cogs define the stroke limit of the switching mechanism.


Twitter AM26-E1 Adjustment Screws.


Twitter adjustment cogs Mantis-E0.

Tuning starts at the lowest speed. The rear derailleur rollers should be in the same plane with the asterisks - if this is not the case, then turn the H-cog so that everything is smooth. Then we switch to small gears and twist the L-cog so that the roller and the asterisk are also in the same plane. It is necessary to follow this: if the bike falls and the switching mechanism (foot) is bent, then it may happen that the chain does not just fly off - it will be much worse, if at one of the speeds the foot switches “inside” the wheel, it touches the spokes with all the consequences. will have to change half the bike :)





The front switch has the same screws, the same rules are there: the switch frame should be in the plane of the stars, and the bottom edge of the frame should be no more than 3 mm from the big star.






L- and H-screws of the front stars in AM26-E1 are slightly recessed in the switch housing

We do not specifically describe in detail the entire algorithm for setting the speeds, because otherwise the whole article would be about them. But if you are completely new and you have problems with speed switches or a chain, now you know where to dig.

Chain

There are at least two reasons to lubricate the chain with a certain frequency: 1) it will last longer (and the stars) and 2) it will work quieter, without unnecessary scratches and clanging. With active skating, it is desirable to lubricate the circuit once a week.


Pure chain


And there is clearly a need for cleaning

To begin with, we take the newspaper - “Komsomolskaya Pravda” is perfect, although “Moskovsky Komsomolets” also has quite a few supporters. We lay it under the bike, in the area of ​​the chain. We clean from dirt: you can use special brushes, but you can do with a regular rag. Then we take the oil can (alternatively, a syringe with a thin needle or an aerosol), place it over the chain and gently squeeze (so that the oil drips, and does not flow), at the same time twisting the pedals (so that the chain moves). After lubricating the entire chain, it is desirable to twist the pedals for a couple of minutes, and then remove all the “extra” with a dry cloth / napkin.

Do not forget that the chain is consumables. Therefore, if after winter everything is rusty - it is easier to replace the circuit, and not to engage in resuscitation. The resource of chains is different, on average, 1000-2000 km, to determine the level of wear there is a special tool - a chain gauge.

Brakes

It is believed that the brakes came up with panties. This may be the case, but still it’s better nowadays when complete order with brakes is one of the key components of your (and those around you) security. Now there are two brakes on bicycles - there are several types of them, but regardless of this, they should work properly. IS ALWAYS. So do not forget to monitor their condition - if the bike does not slow down, then you can not pull with THAT.

On all Twitter electric bikes there are disc brakes, so we will not consider the option of servicing V-brake brakes. The brakes are installed “from the factory” even in the case when the e-bike is purchased in a disassembled state, and therefore they are “out of the box” (you only need to adjust the position of the brake handles on the steering wheel). But the nuances may appear during operation.



The most common problem is the creaking of brakes (even if you are just driving, and do not brake). If the squeak appeared suddenly, then most likely dirt got into the brake mechanism - it is quite possible that everything will “creak” by itself. But if all of a sudden something like oil got onto the brake pads (and first on the rotor) (for example, from a loose plug), then you can only disassemble / clean or buy new pads (issue price is 500-1000 rubles per set).



If the creak is permanent, then something is rubbing against something - a brake disc on the pads, or a pad on the disc :) Both options do not benefit either the disc or the pads. The solution is simple: adjust the gap between the brake disc and caliper, for which there are several bolts on the latter. Important: the gap between the pad and the rotor should not be very large, otherwise the braking will be less effective.





The worst option: a deformed brake disc (for example, as a result of a fall) - it is unlikely that adjustments can be done here. To solve the problem, you need a special key for editing disks, or replacing the rotor. Sometimes it is possible to detect curvature "by eye", in other cases it is enough to spin the wheel of a raised bicycle.

Battery

A battery is not only an important component of an electric bike, but also one of the most expensive :) The cost of a “box with a button” can easily be tens of thousands of rubles, depending on the tricked out.



Twitter electric bikes use LG-made lithium-ion batteries of various configurations. In almost all cases, the battery is removable - with the exception of the model TW-E9L, in which the main battery is hidden inside the carbon frame.



On the topic of extending the life of batteries in the network there are many publications - one of them is with Habr (surprisingly, the article has over a million views). We quote tips from there:

1. Do not overheat
2. Do not allow full discharge
3. Once every 3 months fully discharge and charge the battery
4. Use original charger

And add a few words from yourself:

1. Twitter bicycles use both high-quality batteries and controllers for them. During charging, overvoltage, overcharge, overdischarge, overload, short circuit, overheat, polarity protection are provided. Therefore, it remains only to monitor the status of the battery outside travel.
2. With prolonged inactivity (for example, if you do not ride in the winter and in the offseason), if you keep your bike in a cold garage, it is advisable to remove the battery and store it at home in a semi-discharged state at a temperature of 15-20 degrees.
3. Try not to ride at temperatures below —10 ° C.

If there are more tips on the content of the battery, write in the comments.

Hygiene

It is hardly worth telling about how dirty a bike can be, even if you ride it in dry weather and on asphalt. Not to mention the rainy weather and land. And if there are no large wings (they almost always need to be purchased separately), then everything will no longer wash off :)


Let's start with what it is absolutely impossible to wash an electric bike. These are AVD - High Pressure Apparatuses - this includes various Kärcher and other equipment for car washes. "At maximum speeds" a jet of water easily leaks even through the smallest slots and holes, although at a slight pressure you can easily damage not only the electrics, but even less sensitive components. Therefore, it is better to cross out the option “ call in a car wash for 5 minutes and wash everything for 50 rubles ” - even if everything works after washing, it’s not a fact that it is for a long time. If water seeps inside the motor-wheel or controller unit, then various special effects can occur only after a while. As a result: "5 minutes and 50 rubles" can easily turn into expensive repairs.

If it’s an impurity, then it’s best to stop by the self-service car wash and wash only the dirtiest with the utmost care (for example, rubber-rim-spokes). But in any case, do not give the bike to the washers who, in the event of what, will not bear any responsibility.

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What then to use? Alternatively, use a medium pressure apparatus. The meaning is the same - a jet under pressure, but not so destructive. There are rechargeable models (for the same Kärcher), with a small external compressor and auto battery power. Surely there is something even less powerful with power from a power bank or even a bicycle itself :) A minus of such an option is still the cost, and the “cumbersome” solution.

What can be washed in this case: fork, brakes (and completely), the whole frame, rim and rubber. The stars and the chain, if they are clogged with dirt - neatly, so as not to wash off the grease from them, although it is still better to update it later. Even more neat - the motor-wheel, but it is better not to touch it (as well as the battery with the controller block, if they are separated). It is also advisable not to touch attachments: flashlights, on-board computer, speed switches, etc.

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The optimal, as it seems to us, option is to use removable full-size wings so that a minimum of dirt flies onto the device; they can be washed even in the bathroom, even at the sink. And the rest - wet wipes. Yes, it will take more time, but you can "wash" anywhere: on the street, on the staircase, but at least in the apartment. From the pros: firstly, it will be cleaner (rather than running water), and secondly, wiping centimeter by centimeter, you can carefully monitor the condition of all components and notice any anomalies in time (chips, scuffs, razbaltyvaniya and so on. d.).


In some cases, the wings will not help.

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By the way, there is (and is in demand) a service such as waterproofing electric vehicles. Usually, more compact vehicles (scooters, mono-wheels) are exposed to it, but you can certainly make them for a bicycle (or rather, for its “sensitive” components). This may violate the warranty (as it will require analysis of the “filling”), but if everything is done correctly, then it will be possible to ride even in rainy weather.

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That's all. Share in the comments your tips on caring for your two-wheeled friends!