Choosing a car for an IT person, or tips for teapots from a teapot
Hi, Habr! I will make a reservation right away - this post is rather weakly intersected with the subject of Habr, but I will explain a little further why I decided to publish it. I hope the hubs are selected correctly. So, the whole point is that a modest sample based on my personal observations gave me the following thought: many (if not most) IT people are quite poorly versed in cars, their device, and all of this. This is not bad, it is rather a feature of the thinking of such people. A keen IT professional often spends his free time at the computer, has corresponding hobbies and interests, and therefore is very far from the subject of nuts and wheels. There are, of course, many exceptions, but this post is not about them and not for them. What is the problem, you ask? The problem comes at the moment when an IT person decides to buy a car. Before him opens a whole world with which he has never encountered, the world with a bunch of pitfalls and a rake. How do I know this? I myself am so. A year ago, I bought my first car in my life, and such a post would greatly help me in due time. In other words - the post is not about IT, but for people related to IT. Who cares - I ask under the cat.
To begin with, I want to immediately dot all ego: I understand perfectly that my experience of owning a car is scanty, and I don’t know many things. But believe me, even this experience is very different from what I had a year ago. And this experience would help me a year ago. Therefore - do not kick much, but amendments and criticisms in the comments are welcome.
Everything is quite simple if you have enough finances (and desires) to buy a car from the salon - in this case, in fact, I will not tell you anything useful. I read reviews / reviews, chose to my liking, I bought it in the salon, I serve the officers. Beauty. But in the case of a used car, just the same, and the story arises much more interesting.
So, the first selection criterion is the year of release . In my humble opinion, this is the most important criterion. While the future slowly comes with electric vehicles, 99% of the cars around us are cars with ICE. This means that you have to choose a complex mechanism with a huge pile of details and interrelations. From here several problems follow.
')
First, unlike the usual for IT-program, the real mechanisms are worn out. Even if you do not take into account the banal wear of the metal (and its fatigue) - as part of the machine there are hundreds of elastics, gaskets, tubules, springs, and so on. And over time, all this happiness tends to degrade. Even if the car did not go!
For example, in any engine there are epiploons. The gland is a rubber seal (simplified - rubber ring) which is used in moving mechanisms. His task is not to allow leaking oil, or other technical fluids. But over time, the tires in these glands get tired, dubeet, begins to collapse. As a result, we have a problem. And the greater the age of the car - the more likely the next morning to see a puddle in the parking lot. Moreover, these very glands can stand in such places that for their replacement it will be necessary to disassemble half of the engine. Obviously, this is not amenable to diagnosis when choosing a car. In addition to the glands, there are bearings, silent blocks (simply - a piece of rubber through which one or the other part is screwed to reduce vibrations), belts, branch pipes (simplified - rubber hoses of large diameter). Thus, the big cunning old cars is the lack of guarantees of tomorrow. You can choose and buy an absolutely lively car that does not leak anywhere, does not knock, does not smoke. And the next day, another gum finally degrades - and hello repairs.
This is the gland. He has nothing to do with lard. Turned out to have
And this is a silent block. Why know this? For general development.
Secondly, the older the car, the more difficult it will be to find spare parts for it (VAZ - not counted). If you can easily google the necessary spare part for the conditional 2010th year of release, and tomorrow it will be sent to you, then with the conditional 1990th year of release, it may well turn out that the part is only made to order, in a week, and in general it is already gone.
Conclusion - look for a fresher car. Better car just a little lower class, but 10 years younger. It would seem - an obvious fact, but at one time I almost bought the car in 1983 ... I was fascinated by the "blind" headlights.
The second criterion is prevalence . On the sites for the sale of used cars sometimes pop up very "tasty" options. You look - and there and in good condition, and beautiful, and inexpensive. “We must take!” Shouts the brain. But first you need to understand - why is it so good and inexpensive? In addition to obvious reasons, there is one not entirely obvious - a rarity cars. The owner can sell his car for cheap because zadolbalis weeks call round disassembly after each breakdown, and pick up the right part with the seventh time. Hammer this model in the search, see how many more such machines are on sale. Remember - have you seen such cars on the road? If this is the only offer within a radius of 300 kilometers - we admire, smile, and scroll further. This is a good option for connoisseurs and lovers, but for a beginner it will be just a car on which he will not be able to drive first, and then will not be able to sell.
Conclusion - do not take the first car exotic. Any Alfaromeo, Lancia, Daihatsu, cars in rare bodies (like the honda accord aerodeck). The joy of a beautiful car quickly fade away.
Honda Accord Aerodeck. Sweetheart? Sure. Is it worth taking? Not. Not only that exotic, so even the 1983th year of release. Body parts, for example, not from the word at all.
The third criterion is the prevalence inside the complete sets . The bottom line is that the same car is often produced in different trim levels. For example, you chose the legendary Volkswagen Golf for yourself. For models with release from 1992 to 1997 there were 12 (!) Different engines. In other words, you can find 12 cars that will look identical, but have different engines. And usually in each line there is a rare or problem grade. It may be that all the engines of a certain model have spare parts and a bunch of forums, and this is all, and there is no nigga for any particular “diesel 1.4”. Example: I was looking for a socket on my car. I could buy this pipe for any engine without straining at all. For almost anyone - it was my engine that I finally made an order from Germany. Nowhere in the country in the presence of such a pipe was not. Because the liter engine is not the most popular.
Conclusion - after selecting the brand and model, google the forums on these cars, thematic groups, public in social networks. I'm sure an IT person can google well. Ideally - find the owner of such a model, and ask if he knows the problem configuration. With high probability - he knows.
So you have chosen for yourself an option - and not older than you, and not a rare exhibit, and even a little red one, your wife likes. It's time to buy. You read the forums, watched YouTube, and know exactly what to watch! So - do not know. Seriously, you do not know. You can watch dozens of videos, and then walk around the car in circles, look at it like a ram at a new gate, and say something like, “So, well, there is a motor, this is good. Steering, here, round. Yeah, four wheels. All is well, I take! For example, you read the forums, and everyone writes they say they need to listen to the engine, is it not knocking? Do you know how a sound engine should sound specifically in this model? Do not know. Do you know how to distinguish the sound of a wheel bearing (simplified - this is the most important bearing in the wheel) from the hum of rubber on the asphalt? Unlikely.
Conclusion - try to find someone who will help with the inspection. No friends - find a specialist, pay. Drive to the service station, in the end (if you offer the seller inspection at your own expense - most likely he will not refuse. If you don’t even buy it, he will receive a free diagnosis). On your own, you can see only the condition of the paint and the interior. Seriously. I want to direct attention to this advice. When a pocket burns money, and in front of you is a car that, it seems, is starting up, driving, and it looks good - even an expert can miss something, not to mention you.
This is a thickness gauge. A good thing, but you shouldn’t go with it if you watch cars of 2005 year of release. Practice shows that in 15 years almost any car was beaten, tinted, trimmed. Search for "unbeaten unpainted" makes sense to 10 years. And even better to 5.
I will not talk about problems like “gray” documents, sawing machines (these are cars welded in two parts), scam prepaid, etc. This is how you can easily google this information.
Before shopping, think about where you will park at night. Ideally, rent a garage. You do not like storing winter tires in the apartment, believe me.
There are two types of rubber - winter and summer. Simplified - summer tires are harder, so that when heated from summer asphalt to soften a bit, and to keep the road well. Winter - softer, to harden when cooled from winter frosts, and to keep the road well. Riding on summer tires in the winter - it is likely that in certain cases you will not even be able to move. Not to mention the braking. Riding in the winter summer - of course, you will be able to drive, only it will be washed much faster than the summer one, and with a high probability it will turn into the summer one closer to the winter. There is still "all-season tires", but think for yourself - how can you make tires that do not melt in the summer and harden in the winter? Yes, nothing. This is an economy option, which I strongly advise. By the way, for checking wear on winter tires there are usually indicators. Extruded snowflake, for example. If worn out - then the tires have ceased to be winter. Why should a newcomer know this - for example, I got a winter tire with the car. I was happy. Closer to the winter, a knowledgeable man looked at my winter tires, and said that it was no longer nichrome winter. I was not happy. By the way, after changing the rubber, you need to balance the disc. What is it - you can google. Usually this is done in the same place where pereobuvat.
Wear indicator example
For the average man - they differ only in size. In fact, there are a lot of nuances like razboltovka (the number of mounting bolts and the distance between them), departure, the type of disk edge. Just know that the discs are different. Forewarned is forearmed.
Options ABS - anti-lock system. Simplified - if you hit the brake “to the floor”, then without this system - the wheels will lock and the car will become uncontrollable. ABS controls the wheels and catches the brake on the verge of locking. Stuck useful.
GUR (power steering) or the EUR (electric power steering). A system that helps turn the steering wheel. A set of sensors controlling the position and speed of rotation of the steering wheel, in order to then help the electric motor or hydraulics. Allows you to twist the steering wheel with one finger while standing still. My personal opinion is a definite must have. In addition to the comfort of control, it helps to keep the car level, does not allow knocking the steering wheel out of the pits.
Mechanics or automatic - I will not start holivar, to each his own. I can only say that you should not be afraid of mechanics, the devil is not so bad as he is painted.
Xenon (simplified - this is the kind of bulbs in the headlights) - if the ad contains xenon, ask about its origin. If it is installed on its own, it is very likely that it is a handicraft-installed China, which will blind an oncoming line, attracting bad words and attention of the DPS to you.
Heated seats - the same nonsense, ask my own this option, or rug with aliexpress. In the second case - buy yourself a good fire extinguisher. And I'm not joking right now.
The option is useful, but dumb. Cases full.
Injector or carburetor . The carburetor is an extremely outdated engine power supply system (in a simplified way - a gasoline supply system to the engine), which was replaced by electronics (injector). In addition to the best work, the injector gives the car “brains” to which you can connect. If your car has an injector, it has a diagnostic connector. Sometimes you can even buy a device for ~ 10 dollars which will allow you to diagnose the car with a smartphone, via bluetooth. Sometimes not. But to know about this connector is.
This is a "check". It should glow when you turn on the ignition, and go out when the engine is started. If it does not go out, or caught fire while driving - the car feels something amiss. We must go to the service and "read the error."
Wheel alignment A thing that not all newbies know about. The wheels in the car are not parallel, but at a certain angle. This angle must be adjusted. It is inexpensive, done every six months - a year. Google in your city "3D collapse", recorded, doing. Symptoms of a bad collapse - the car “pulls” to the left or right, it is slightly thrown along the road, tires wear unevenly (with a very bad breakdown it is noticeable by sight - on the one hand the rubber is new, and on the other it is worn out). After buying a car, you should go and check out this same wheel alignment.
Sensitive subject. Ideally, you have a friend who will advise you to a proven service station. If there is no such friend, you will have to complete a quest to find a normal maintenance station. What is the danger of running:
Unfortunately, there is no simple solution. The choice of SRT is a trial and error method. The only thing I can advise is not to choose a service station somewhere in the courtyards, without a lift, with workers who begin their conversation exclusively with the mat, and all the details are called nothing other than "this one ... me, well, which you understood." If your car is relatively fresh (up to 10 years old), it is possible that there is an official service station of your brand in your city. Prices there, of course, will be unpleasant, but at least they will work adequately. Probably. By the way, personal, subjective advice - if there is a choice between repairs without guarantees, but cheaper, and replacing parts, but more expensive - choose a replacement. Most often, the repair does not take long, and in the end you still have to change. Why spend money twice?
If you don’t have a VAZ or Daewoo Lanos - most likely you will have most of the spare parts on order, without availability in the city’s stores. So, EVERY detail has its own code. You can find it somewhere in the catalogs of spare parts for your car, or on the forums. According to the original code, you can find analogs of native parts. Sometimes the price difference between the “original” and the “equivalent” can be tenfold. You should not be afraid of analogs (this is my personal opinion). To know the exact number is important, because even on the same car model, in the same configuration, but released a year earlier or later, they could have put another part. Thus, a search query of the type “Opel Corsa ball joint” will be much less useful than a query like “GM 90542574 to buy”.
For the winter, it is necessary to fill in a special glass washer, with a low freezing point. Do you watch whether you left the car at night with the headlights on (you can probably miss it, believe it). Watch the engine temperature. An empty car, and a car in which five passengers drive in different ways (you can laugh, but for me it was unexpected). The recommended tire pressure is usually indicated on the fuel tank cover. In the cold, you should not put the car on the handbrake. Under a steep hill, on the contrary - you should not put the car into gear. Antifreeze (coolant in the radiator) is different, it is not worth to add what is horrible.
If you need spare parts like seats, trunk shelves, steering, door handles, lights, etc. - then you should not look for them with new ones, most likely they will cost a lot of money. Google the “disassembly% your car_ brand%”. There are a lot of guys who are dismantling machines, and selling them for parts. Sometimes it happens that the spare part can be found ONLY during disassembly. In general, the existence of such a phenomenon must be known.
Well, on this kind of like everything. I hope this knowledge will be useful for someone, and save a little (or a lot) of time, nerves and money.
To begin with, I want to immediately dot all ego: I understand perfectly that my experience of owning a car is scanty, and I don’t know many things. But believe me, even this experience is very different from what I had a year ago. And this experience would help me a year ago. Therefore - do not kick much, but amendments and criticisms in the comments are welcome.
Let's talk about choosing a car
Everything is quite simple if you have enough finances (and desires) to buy a car from the salon - in this case, in fact, I will not tell you anything useful. I read reviews / reviews, chose to my liking, I bought it in the salon, I serve the officers. Beauty. But in the case of a used car, just the same, and the story arises much more interesting.
So, the first selection criterion is the year of release . In my humble opinion, this is the most important criterion. While the future slowly comes with electric vehicles, 99% of the cars around us are cars with ICE. This means that you have to choose a complex mechanism with a huge pile of details and interrelations. From here several problems follow.
')
First, unlike the usual for IT-program, the real mechanisms are worn out. Even if you do not take into account the banal wear of the metal (and its fatigue) - as part of the machine there are hundreds of elastics, gaskets, tubules, springs, and so on. And over time, all this happiness tends to degrade. Even if the car did not go!
For example, in any engine there are epiploons. The gland is a rubber seal (simplified - rubber ring) which is used in moving mechanisms. His task is not to allow leaking oil, or other technical fluids. But over time, the tires in these glands get tired, dubeet, begins to collapse. As a result, we have a problem. And the greater the age of the car - the more likely the next morning to see a puddle in the parking lot. Moreover, these very glands can stand in such places that for their replacement it will be necessary to disassemble half of the engine. Obviously, this is not amenable to diagnosis when choosing a car. In addition to the glands, there are bearings, silent blocks (simply - a piece of rubber through which one or the other part is screwed to reduce vibrations), belts, branch pipes (simplified - rubber hoses of large diameter). Thus, the big cunning old cars is the lack of guarantees of tomorrow. You can choose and buy an absolutely lively car that does not leak anywhere, does not knock, does not smoke. And the next day, another gum finally degrades - and hello repairs.
This is the gland. And this is a silent block. Why know this? For general development.Secondly, the older the car, the more difficult it will be to find spare parts for it (VAZ - not counted). If you can easily google the necessary spare part for the conditional 2010th year of release, and tomorrow it will be sent to you, then with the conditional 1990th year of release, it may well turn out that the part is only made to order, in a week, and in general it is already gone.
Conclusion - look for a fresher car. Better car just a little lower class, but 10 years younger. It would seem - an obvious fact, but at one time I almost bought the car in 1983 ... I was fascinated by the "blind" headlights.
The second criterion is prevalence . On the sites for the sale of used cars sometimes pop up very "tasty" options. You look - and there and in good condition, and beautiful, and inexpensive. “We must take!” Shouts the brain. But first you need to understand - why is it so good and inexpensive? In addition to obvious reasons, there is one not entirely obvious - a rarity cars. The owner can sell his car for cheap because zadolbalis weeks call round disassembly after each breakdown, and pick up the right part with the seventh time. Hammer this model in the search, see how many more such machines are on sale. Remember - have you seen such cars on the road? If this is the only offer within a radius of 300 kilometers - we admire, smile, and scroll further. This is a good option for connoisseurs and lovers, but for a beginner it will be just a car on which he will not be able to drive first, and then will not be able to sell.
Conclusion - do not take the first car exotic. Any Alfaromeo, Lancia, Daihatsu, cars in rare bodies (like the honda accord aerodeck). The joy of a beautiful car quickly fade away.
Honda Accord Aerodeck. Sweetheart? Sure. Is it worth taking? Not. Not only that exotic, so even the 1983th year of release. Body parts, for example, not from the word at all.
The third criterion is the prevalence inside the complete sets . The bottom line is that the same car is often produced in different trim levels. For example, you chose the legendary Volkswagen Golf for yourself. For models with release from 1992 to 1997 there were 12 (!) Different engines. In other words, you can find 12 cars that will look identical, but have different engines. And usually in each line there is a rare or problem grade. It may be that all the engines of a certain model have spare parts and a bunch of forums, and this is all, and there is no nigga for any particular “diesel 1.4”. Example: I was looking for a socket on my car. I could buy this pipe for any engine without straining at all. For almost anyone - it was my engine that I finally made an order from Germany. Nowhere in the country in the presence of such a pipe was not. Because the liter engine is not the most popular.
Conclusion - after selecting the brand and model, google the forums on these cars, thematic groups, public in social networks. I'm sure an IT person can google well. Ideally - find the owner of such a model, and ask if he knows the problem configuration. With high probability - he knows.
Auto inspection
So you have chosen for yourself an option - and not older than you, and not a rare exhibit, and even a little red one, your wife likes. It's time to buy. You read the forums, watched YouTube, and know exactly what to watch! So - do not know. Seriously, you do not know. You can watch dozens of videos, and then walk around the car in circles, look at it like a ram at a new gate, and say something like, “So, well, there is a motor, this is good. Steering, here, round. Yeah, four wheels. All is well, I take! For example, you read the forums, and everyone writes they say they need to listen to the engine, is it not knocking? Do you know how a sound engine should sound specifically in this model? Do not know. Do you know how to distinguish the sound of a wheel bearing (simplified - this is the most important bearing in the wheel) from the hum of rubber on the asphalt? Unlikely.
Conclusion - try to find someone who will help with the inspection. No friends - find a specialist, pay. Drive to the service station, in the end (if you offer the seller inspection at your own expense - most likely he will not refuse. If you don’t even buy it, he will receive a free diagnosis). On your own, you can see only the condition of the paint and the interior. Seriously. I want to direct attention to this advice. When a pocket burns money, and in front of you is a car that, it seems, is starting up, driving, and it looks good - even an expert can miss something, not to mention you.
This is a thickness gauge. A good thing, but you shouldn’t go with it if you watch cars of 2005 year of release. Practice shows that in 15 years almost any car was beaten, tinted, trimmed. Search for "unbeaten unpainted" makes sense to 10 years. And even better to 5.
Purchase
I will not talk about problems like “gray” documents, sawing machines (these are cars welded in two parts), scam prepaid, etc. This is how you can easily google this information.
Now let's talk about owning
Parking
Before shopping, think about where you will park at night. Ideally, rent a garage. You do not like storing winter tires in the apartment, believe me.
Rubber
There are two types of rubber - winter and summer. Simplified - summer tires are harder, so that when heated from summer asphalt to soften a bit, and to keep the road well. Winter - softer, to harden when cooled from winter frosts, and to keep the road well. Riding on summer tires in the winter - it is likely that in certain cases you will not even be able to move. Not to mention the braking. Riding in the winter summer - of course, you will be able to drive, only it will be washed much faster than the summer one, and with a high probability it will turn into the summer one closer to the winter. There is still "all-season tires", but think for yourself - how can you make tires that do not melt in the summer and harden in the winter? Yes, nothing. This is an economy option, which I strongly advise. By the way, for checking wear on winter tires there are usually indicators. Extruded snowflake, for example. If worn out - then the tires have ceased to be winter. Why should a newcomer know this - for example, I got a winter tire with the car. I was happy. Closer to the winter, a knowledgeable man looked at my winter tires, and said that it was no longer nichrome winter. I was not happy. By the way, after changing the rubber, you need to balance the disc. What is it - you can google. Usually this is done in the same place where pereobuvat.
Wear indicator example
Discs
For the average man - they differ only in size. In fact, there are a lot of nuances like razboltovka (the number of mounting bolts and the distance between them), departure, the type of disk edge. Just know that the discs are different. Forewarned is forearmed.
Options ABS - anti-lock system. Simplified - if you hit the brake “to the floor”, then without this system - the wheels will lock and the car will become uncontrollable. ABS controls the wheels and catches the brake on the verge of locking. Stuck useful.
GUR (power steering) or the EUR (electric power steering). A system that helps turn the steering wheel. A set of sensors controlling the position and speed of rotation of the steering wheel, in order to then help the electric motor or hydraulics. Allows you to twist the steering wheel with one finger while standing still. My personal opinion is a definite must have. In addition to the comfort of control, it helps to keep the car level, does not allow knocking the steering wheel out of the pits.
Mechanics or automatic - I will not start holivar, to each his own. I can only say that you should not be afraid of mechanics, the devil is not so bad as he is painted.
Xenon (simplified - this is the kind of bulbs in the headlights) - if the ad contains xenon, ask about its origin. If it is installed on its own, it is very likely that it is a handicraft-installed China, which will blind an oncoming line, attracting bad words and attention of the DPS to you.
Heated seats - the same nonsense, ask my own this option, or rug with aliexpress. In the second case - buy yourself a good fire extinguisher. And I'm not joking right now.
The option is useful, but dumb. Cases full.
Injector or carburetor . The carburetor is an extremely outdated engine power supply system (in a simplified way - a gasoline supply system to the engine), which was replaced by electronics (injector). In addition to the best work, the injector gives the car “brains” to which you can connect. If your car has an injector, it has a diagnostic connector. Sometimes you can even buy a device for ~ 10 dollars which will allow you to diagnose the car with a smartphone, via bluetooth. Sometimes not. But to know about this connector is.
This is a "check". It should glow when you turn on the ignition, and go out when the engine is started. If it does not go out, or caught fire while driving - the car feels something amiss. We must go to the service and "read the error."
Wheel alignment A thing that not all newbies know about. The wheels in the car are not parallel, but at a certain angle. This angle must be adjusted. It is inexpensive, done every six months - a year. Google in your city "3D collapse", recorded, doing. Symptoms of a bad collapse - the car “pulls” to the left or right, it is slightly thrown along the road, tires wear unevenly (with a very bad breakdown it is noticeable by sight - on the one hand the rubber is new, and on the other it is worn out). After buying a car, you should go and check out this same wheel alignment.
Selection of a service station
Sensitive subject. Ideally, you have a friend who will advise you to a proven service station. If there is no such friend, you will have to complete a quest to find a normal maintenance station. What is the danger of running:
- Muddy garage in the cooperative, where the craftsman "Uncle Valera" will do everything "by eye", using a bad tool, not the best technical solutions, and some kind of mother
- The service, where you will come to change the oil, and they will tell you that it’s time to capitalize the engine, and the suspension is knocking, and in general it is dangerous to drive, give us 10.5 million money, and we will fix everything
- The service, where it seems like everything is normally done, does not impose anything superfluous, but writing them a month in advance. Not the worst option, but in the event of a breakdown, the car will stand as a monument for weeks until there is a “window” for you
Unfortunately, there is no simple solution. The choice of SRT is a trial and error method. The only thing I can advise is not to choose a service station somewhere in the courtyards, without a lift, with workers who begin their conversation exclusively with the mat, and all the details are called nothing other than "this one ... me, well, which you understood." If your car is relatively fresh (up to 10 years old), it is possible that there is an official service station of your brand in your city. Prices there, of course, will be unpleasant, but at least they will work adequately. Probably. By the way, personal, subjective advice - if there is a choice between repairs without guarantees, but cheaper, and replacing parts, but more expensive - choose a replacement. Most often, the repair does not take long, and in the end you still have to change. Why spend money twice?
Search for parts
If you don’t have a VAZ or Daewoo Lanos - most likely you will have most of the spare parts on order, without availability in the city’s stores. So, EVERY detail has its own code. You can find it somewhere in the catalogs of spare parts for your car, or on the forums. According to the original code, you can find analogs of native parts. Sometimes the price difference between the “original” and the “equivalent” can be tenfold. You should not be afraid of analogs (this is my personal opinion). To know the exact number is important, because even on the same car model, in the same configuration, but released a year earlier or later, they could have put another part. Thus, a search query of the type “Opel Corsa ball joint” will be much less useful than a query like “GM 90542574 to buy”.
Trivia ownership
For the winter, it is necessary to fill in a special glass washer, with a low freezing point. Do you watch whether you left the car at night with the headlights on (you can probably miss it, believe it). Watch the engine temperature. An empty car, and a car in which five passengers drive in different ways (you can laugh, but for me it was unexpected). The recommended tire pressure is usually indicated on the fuel tank cover. In the cold, you should not put the car on the handbrake. Under a steep hill, on the contrary - you should not put the car into gear. Antifreeze (coolant in the radiator) is different, it is not worth to add what is horrible.
Showdowns
If you need spare parts like seats, trunk shelves, steering, door handles, lights, etc. - then you should not look for them with new ones, most likely they will cost a lot of money. Google the “disassembly% your car_ brand%”. There are a lot of guys who are dismantling machines, and selling them for parts. Sometimes it happens that the spare part can be found ONLY during disassembly. In general, the existence of such a phenomenon must be known.
Well, on this kind of like everything. I hope this knowledge will be useful for someone, and save a little (or a lot) of time, nerves and money.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/443520/
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