Prague as a place worthy of moving from St. Petersburg - 3 years later

" ... Cannot be alien to Slav

Be Czechs valiant land. "

P.A. Vyazemsky

Small preface

Our colleague Andrei Dmitriev, who once told Habra his development history from homeless to Senior Developer, was recently invited to participate in the linkmeup podcast by our other colleague Loxmatiymamont . Within the framework of the project “Poezuehshie”, he communicates with IT specialists who are united by one detail: once they went to work from Russia to another country. But, in order not to repeat a million and a thousand such projects, in this podcast there is no talk about motivation, why and why reasonings, as well as searching for higher meanings. No, here the emphasis is on the domestic part of the question of the life of an ordinary person in a completely new place for him, without boring comparisons a la "where cucumbers are more expensive".

Andrei has been living in Prague for almost three years, so he decided to take part. And here is the transcript of their conversation. Link to the full record, of course, there is, but at the very end.

- Hello!

We [linkmeup] used to be blamed for some bias and that our project is periodically sold [issues with representatives of vendors - Ed ] . And today you will have a new reason to do this, because I invited my colleague to visit me - this is Andrei Dmitriev, he is now working in Prague. Hi Andrew!

- Hello!

- Tell me, please, who do you work?

- I am the lead developer in the graphical user interface (UI) development team.

- OK. How much are you already in Prague?

- I am 2.5 years old in Prague.

Fighters remember the days past ...

- As far as I remember, you had 2 very interesting articles: the first is devoted to how you even became a developer, and the second - how you went to Prague. In just 2-3 minutes you can tell a short squeeze, how did you “get to life like that”?

- I can just build a logical chain, how it all happened.

At one time, I decided to "hang out" from the university in the army. I went to the army (they didn’t take it the first time, because it seemed strange at the military registration office - that the person “mows down” in the army from the university, and I couldn’t pass a psychiatrist. However, they took me away, in general), after long throwings in Saint-Petersburg. Since I was an athlete (I was involved in athletics), I got into the Army Sports Club and began to train.

While serving, he entered the University at PM-PU (St. Petersburg State University, Faculty of Applied Mathematics - Management Processes). I enrolled for the day, then problems began in the army, and I had to quit ...

After the army I had to go home, but did not go, stayed in St. Petersburg. He spent a little bit of time on different streets in search of work and eventually found work as a security guard. Began to work as a security guard and live there. And I guarded the book office. There was a lot of literature needed, respectively, for 2 years of work, I prepared for this literature (computer, according to various mathematical analyzes, etc.) and got a job there, in a book club: I wrote a small project designer, sold it to the same book club . After that I wrote a resume and went in search of a programmer’s work. Found, in the end, in Veeam Software. I worked there for 3 years in St. Petersburg, and we moved to Prague: we were offered, I agreed, we took shape for half a year, and here I am. So, if briefly.

- And “we” - is it that you left with your family?

- Yes. When we were told that we would move to Prague, I was alone. (More precisely, not to Prague, but we were going to go somewhere else — either to Finland, or to Prague, or somewhere else.) And while these conversations were going, I already had a family, I had child, dog, cat, mortgage ... During this time, already "we" has become. I gave the answer that I was moving alone, but eventually moved with the whole family.

- But you, probably, moved the first to equip a life? And then they all came to you?

- Yes, I moved first, for the first 2 months. Just moved, rented an apartment. And then my wife, child, dog came to me (I moved with the cat). If we are to be completely accurate: I flew with a cat, and then we moved by car with the whole family. And so, with a cat, we were looking for an apartment and settled down. Apartment, in fact, we were looking for a couple of days only. Somehow pretty quickly found.

- A, that is, with the apartments all is well. Well, about the apartments we have a little later scheduled to talk, let's talk about visas for now - or we will not talk about them at all. As I understand it, the entire visa history has passed by you, and in order not to lie, we will lower all the visas, right? That is, roughly speaking, you do not even know how a wife and child received a visa?

- Well, in short, I can say that this is a ton of some questionnaires ... you answer certain questions: who are your relatives, etc. There are a lot of these forms, and all the rest is erased from my memory. But these are all pieces of paper, and this is all surmountable.

Az da Buki - the basis of science

- Then let's talk a little about the country. In my opinion, the Czech Republic is interesting in two main things: the main language is still Czech, not English. Although it is located in the middle of Europe, there is not the euro, but its own currency - the Czech crowns.

Tell me about the Czech language, do you need to delve into it, dive-learn? Or maybe enough English?

- Czech need to learn. But if the goal is to rent an apartment, get to the doctor by LCA (I don’t remember what it’s called here), go to a Canadian [international clinic] where you speak English, then English is enough. Maybe for a trip to the restaurant. But if you come to the playground with the child, there will be about 50 \ 50 Russian speakers on the playground.

- Is it in the area where you live? Or in all areas?

- This is in principle in Prague. There are areas, for example, in Vinohrady, where 99% of Russian speakers will be. And on average, we were in many areas, because I ride a bicycle to different playgrounds with a child, 50 to 50 there. Well, not 50 to 50, but there will definitely be some Russian speakers.

However, we live in another country, this is not Russia, and you need to join the culture, but to integrate into the culture, you must know the language and communicate not only with the same people who moved, but with the local people too. And the child stretches, wants to play with different children, wants to understand, and in order for the child to be able, you should speak quietly yourself. This is a cultural moment. You come to live in another country, and I think it is wrong to say: “My hut is on the edge, I will live and speak only Russian (or English) everywhere”. This is purely from a moral point of view, it seems to me wrong.

The second point is the various government agencies. The same campaign for obtaining a Blue Card [work permit], the extension of the Blue Card - they will not speak English or Russian there. That is, you came to the country, and you, please, either [learn the language], or come with a translator then. We have a translator for this, but living in Prague for over 2 years and walking with an interpreter all the time in order to give documents, for example, to extend the lease of an apartment - it looks a little silly.

- How much did it take for you to walk without an interpreter?

- In fact, to be honest, I do not know the language well. And I don't know English well either, well, I somehow speak, but I know badly. But I have reasons for this: my wife is a translator, she knows, probably, all European languages.

And it turns out that I am not involved all the time. Arriving in the Czech Republic, she began to speak Czech in a week and now speaks fluently enough. Now we are arranging a child in the kindergarten, and she is already calmly speaking in Czech. I now began to talk, and my Czech is enough for me to go to a state institution. That is, I can explain and file documents. But at the level of communication, sit down and talk - I still have problems related to the fact that I am not in great demand in this field (for speaking Czech). But now I started training at the Czech cycling club, and they speak Czech. And little by little I begin to get involved, began to talk, communicate.

- That is, it is as always - when you need to dive, you start talking.

- The complexity of the Czech language is that it looks like Russian. And this complexity is quite large. It looks like it is similar, but these words cannot remain in your head, that is, you cannot remember. Why? Because "Oh, I know that word!".

But it is not used by us: it either looks like obsolete in our country, or has the opposite meaning. And, when it comes to reproduction, that is, you need to say something, then you cannot remember, because well, you knew this word, and it is somewhere in your memory. You will need to load all these memories into this RAM, but this is very difficult due to the fact that, apparently, some links are missing, because you “know” this word. This is exactly the key point. "You know, but forgot."

- As one comrade with a philological education explained to me just in the Czech Republic, historically speaking, the Czech language is much closer to the common ancestor of our languages. That is, it is not Czech like Russian, and this Russian is similar to Czech.

- To be fair, yes. It's true. A lot of this, as if in Old Church Slavonic. My great-grandmother in the Old Slavonic read the Bible, and here it was very similar.

- I must say that, for example, the numerals are almost the same.

- Yes. In numbers, you simply remove all the "soft", that is, not six, but the pole.

- Here I have the impression on the philistine-tourist level that everyone in the tourist center of Prague speaks English. But you are moving aside - and there you have to start communicating with some wild mix of Czech and Russian. Did you have this at first?

- There is such a moment, but I would say that it does not concern Prague itself. In Prague, people tend to speak English more, they know English. Clearly, not so good when compared to Germany, where everyone speaks English. In the Czech Republic, in Prague there is no such thing, but all young people up to 25-27 years old speak English. Our peers are those who are over 30, over 40, - yes there, some kind of mixture works, that’s true. I must say that the younger ones work in the service sector (restaurant business, sales), more often they have to communicate with them, and I saw that it is easier to explain them in English. Another moment is when you leave Prague. You come to some village, not far from Prague, 30 kilometers away, and there is a suspicion that they do not even know that the Czech Republic is a separate country, not Czechoslovakia. That is, there is so much time, just standing, that there is a feeling that they do not know what is happening there. There everything is calm, very clean, there you can explain, just waving your arms and smiling. They don’t know English there, of course. In Prague, I would say that more English is involved.

- Closing the language theme: when I first saw the Czech keyboard, I was really surprised - if I remember correctly, they have 42 letters in the alphabet!

Is it difficult to get used to it?

- The Czechs themselves “slaughter” on all the “gachiki”, etc. and use just Latin, meaning they understand what's what. That is, sms-ki, for example, which come from mobile operators, never contain “gachikov” at all. Or from delivery. This, by the way, causes small problems - when you try to copy text for Google Translator, it doesn’t cut at all. Well, so, all these difficulties with “gachikami”, “ticks” and even all sorts of things at the top ... They are all on the numeric keypad (top), and you get used to pretty quickly where to find them. That is, for example, you need to find “rye” (Ř) - you climb into the numeric keypad and find it there without any problems.

- And what about all that is on the usual English keyboard above the number? Stars, brackets?

“I won't lie, I don't remember, but it all switches.” Must see, I have a laptop Czech. There were no problems with this.

- That is, you use 3 layouts: English, Czech and Russian?

- No, at work only 2 - English and Russian. And so, I in a usual life do not use a computer.

About homes and homeowners

- Now let's talk about my favorite “bytovuha”. What's in the Czech Republic with housing? Well, specifically in Prague, since you live in Prague. What is a "typical Prague place to stay"?

- There is such a moment: if you want a large spacious apartment with parking, etc., close to the center, and is willing to pay a decent amount, then you have no problems with renting.

- A decent amount - how much?

- This is - starting from 27,000 crowns. In rubles it is necessary to multiply by 3.

- That is, it turns out about 80 000 rubles, that is, 1000 with something euro per month.

- Yes, this is the starting amount. That is, starting from this amount, you will rent good housing relatively without problems.

- About the center is clear: expensive, pathetic. But it seems to me that it’s uncomfortable to live in the center - crowds of tourists ...

- Yes. The center of Prague is that which is concentrated around Prague Castle. There is a pavement, but no one lives there. But there are such areas as Vinohrady, Zizkov, which are next to these historical ones.

The best city in Europe * (according to a survey among Andrei Dmitriev)

“For this and last summer we traveled a lot of European cities, and I’ll say with confidence: Prague is the most adapted city for family life.

- What is it expressed?

- Suppose you have such an average Czech family: mom, dad, 2 children, a dog and a car. The car is in the parking lot and is only required in order to go somewhere to rest for the weekend.

You have a bike, children have bikes. You go out, drive along bike paths or along marked places on the road. Or, you leave with a carriage - you can also pass everywhere with a carriage. Yes, there is a relief, but there are congresses everywhere. Unlike Rome, Paris, you’ll go everywhere with a pram.

In each area there is not one playground for dogs: a separate, equipped, fenced, where you can play with the dog, to train it.

In each area there are many parks. The number of parks is amazing. And these parks have playgrounds.

Let me give an example: I came to St. Petersburg in the first year after my departure to the Czech Republic and decided to just walk around the city with my dog. So, in St. Petersburg, I could not go into any park and could not eat anywhere - with a dog. I was simply not allowed anywhere ... And you think: why then all this is created? Just for the picture?

Here in the Czech Republic, for example, if there is a park, then you can, for example, sit on the grass, on the bench, go to the playground - and they will let you in with the dog everywhere. Simply, there are differences there are places where you can let the dog go, let it run - or you keep it on a leash, but you pass it everywhere.

And the playgrounds - I saw it with my own eyes: an employee is attached to each playground, which inventories and repairs this site during the week. Any breakage, any cracks - everything is checked, and you always come to the playground and you know that your child will not fall into some kind of hole. We were here in Georgia now, and there was a little fucking there, to be honest: there my child almost fell from the playground, because there was a hole in the floor!

So I say that Prague, and indeed the Czech Republic (because we drove through almost all cities) is very adapted for life: you can drive everywhere with a sidecar, you have the possibility of the same parking, if you are on Czech rooms and your area then you get up free. But it's hard to imagine why you need a car in the city, because public transport runs on a schedule. The distances here are small, so the car, perhaps, go to the airport and leave there ...

- That is, if not a sports guy like you - with a bicycle - then you can live completely quietly without a car?

- Completely. The car here is needed due to the fact that so many beautiful places. In addition to the internal parks in Prague, there are places where you want to go to relax on the weekends - that's when the car is needed.

- And the apartments themselves - what's this? Is this a new house or is it “Czech gothic”? I mean simple areas to stay.

“Such areas are new homes.” Well, if you do not want absolutely extreme. There are “Khrushchev’s”, they have been restored, but since then they have the inside of “Khrushchev’s”, which have not been altered in any way, with the kitchen meter and meter, they are no different from our “Khrushchev’s”. But for renting, I saw few of these apartments. They are not there, or, if there is, they diverge between "their".

And so, this is a simple housing. Here, almost all apartments have the form of studios. That is, if 2-kk. is a large room and a kitchen, and a separate room. At the moment we are removing the “three rubles”, there is a large room combined with a kitchen, a separate bathroom and 2 separate rooms, underground parking and a “crypt” (“crypt” is a warehouse) - there is a separate room next to the parking lot various things.

- And how much does it cost you, if not a secret?

- Now it costs us 24,000 (Czech crowns), but we stopped in an empty apartment, without furniture. We even set our kitchen.

- So this furniture will follow you?

- Yes, there will be a “ride”. But it’s written in our agreement that if we don’t want to take away some things, then the owner will buy them from us. Well, the kitchen - if we move out for 5 years - then he buys it at 100% price, and then with depreciation already, there are percentages registered.

- Interesting. Is this a characteristic thing for Prague?

- No, I will say right away, this is rare. We came across such a person, he is an economist himself, a young guy who speaks English very well, is actively studying Russian. He has several apartments in our house, he rents them. But this is not a typical example.

Actually, firstly, there are usually agents - I would not say that they are irresponsible, rather, they are not very interested: they may not answer you ... they are somehow lazy about this. This is if you are trying to remove through the agency.

Landlords themselves - everything is good with them in the sense that they don’t bother you; everything is written in the contract. But the pledge that you leave for an apartment, they try not to give as much as possible - that’s yes. That is, they will find some problems, 100%, in the apartment, and will try not to give some money. Such a moment is present, and the guys are faced with this. We do not have this, because we do not have a pledge - what pledge, if we moved into an empty apartment? And the person [master] is oriented somehow a little differently. I think we are very lucky.

- Is the deposit a monthly payment?

- Yes, if you are with animals, it is usually double.

- Do they have warm apartments? With central heating?

- In Prague, there is no winter per se, such as we are used to. I do not remember that it was ever cold, but with heating ... We had electric heating in the first apartment, and here there is central heating, batteries.

“And this is the communication tube, the communication tube.”

- And what about the internet? With mobile, with stationary?

- If you want to carry the Internet home, then you need to be prepared for what you have to wait, well, 2 weeks, so that you stretch the cable. Because everything related to delivery or some services that do not concern your life (that is, not an ambulance), then everything that will be delivered to you, you can wait a very long time. Here, this [delivery service] is not such an incredibly sought-after thing, that is, everyone is ready to wait. For example, if you need a TV, you ordered a TV in an electronics store - then they can bring it to you in a week: “And why, man, will you die, perhaps, without a TV? You'll not die. Why should we hurry then? ”

- That is, the delivery time is not indicated at all?

- No, they are designated, just “we didn’t go to this area today, so, sorry, another SMS will come later”. For me personally, this is not a problem. Yes, it’s not like in St. Petersburg, where, for example, you decided that you need the Internet right now - and they will come to you almost at night. There is no such thing. Here - stand up, call, we will see and then we will call you back. And they can not call back. You call them, and they - yes, yes, we recorded something here ... Therefore, we just bought a wireless 4G mobile. We bought a router U2, and we have enough. Well, I have enough Tour de France to watch.

- Is it worth all this sane money?

- Yes, sane. In the region of 300-400 CZK is absolutely normal. Mobile Internet is expensive, but everything is relative too: you can set up various options. But with this, of course, everything is wild for a person who is used to living in our realities - to understand that there will be some difficulty with connecting the mobile Internet. If you come, buy a SIM card, insert it, then you will not have the Internet.

- What should be done?

- Go to the mobile application, which is well, very badly done, well, really, just “tear it out”, that is, game ... Yes, and there you need to find [package settings] and set up a package for yourself. For example, you ordered a package with a data transfer limit of 3 GB, scooped them up in a week (and this is your monthly package) - and here you will connect such a bag every day, and you will have completely different money for all this. So, you need to be careful in this regard. Yes, everything is so “without haste” - everything that does not concern your life. As for the ambulance, it will appear in you instantly, because here the ambulances fly with the speed of the wind, and everyone misses them. It amazes me to the depths of my soul: for example, how in a tunnel cars manage to scatter to the sides when the ambulance rides. It is directly worthy of respect.

“Sorry, I'll have to write you a fine.”

- Listen, but I was also told that the Czechs are wild couch potatoes, that the Czechs for the weekend are almost unreal to lure somewhere.

- I'll tell you: for example, Saturday, morning, I go down to the parking lot. It is worth my car and Moscow, all, parking is empty for the weekend. Therefore, to say that they are couch potatoes, I would not. Everyone gets off for the weekend somewhere, and it’s too early, we don’t even have time to do it.

- Besides the fact that you go to renew this Blue Card, do you somehow interact with government agencies? With traffic cops at least?

- That's about the traffic cops - again, this is an incredible difference: you can hardly interact with them. Everywhere there are cameras, there are rules that you must follow. But for all the time that we went (for more than 2 years), we were stopped only 2 times. And we drive a lot.

The first time - we went to buy me a bike and stopped at a prohibited place, at a crossroads. And just some local resident called and called the police. A policeman came to us, very apologized, says: “Sorry, but you can't stand here, and I will have to (understand!“ I will have to ”!) To issue you a fine. And in order not to delay you much, you can pay me now, I will write you a receipt now. And if you don’t have cash now, you’ll have to go to the post office and pay a fine at any post office. Sorry, ”well, in general, everything happened like this.

- Was it in Prague or in a village?

- It was in Prague, on the outskirts, next to the store where I bought and repaired a bicycle.

The second time we were stopped when we went to Paris, near the border with Germany. We have automatic light settings and the like, and while I was loading things, I caught something and disconnected this automatics. And we went with the dimensions off. And there are toll roads, and you need to stick a sticker on the windshield, but with us it was not glued, just thrown on the “torpedo”.

We were stopped, [the policeman] checked the documents, said that we do not have dimensions. He simply said that they would turn it on, and asked me to stick a “vignette” (this is the name for this sticker for driving on toll roads, this is an inexpensive thing, I bought it for a year and go quietly — I stuck it on the window and go). Then wished good luck, and all! At this conversation with the police about the car I have completely ended.

From the point of view of a cyclist - there are a lot of interesting moments. I bought a bicycle, and before that I only rode a bicycle at the age of 6 years old, and did not ride again, since I was involved in athletics, ran, and we could not ride on rollers or on a bicycle. Now I stopped running and bought a bike. And I was so struck by the opportunity to go somewhere far away, that on the second day after the purchase I decided to do so and go somewhere far away. I chose the city of Tabor for this, googled the route there ...

This, in fact, should have been 100 km smooth, but it turned out to be somewhat more. I saw that this is part of the cycle path, the so-called. “Green Way” Prague-Vienna in very picturesque places. I was delighted. I didn’t have any navigation, I thought: “Well, there are signs there, I’ll pass by.”

In the morning I got up, got on my bike and drove off. Did not take any supplies, no water, nothing. I went at random. But I was absolutely not oriented. This is not Peter, where direct roads. There is something winding all the time, and there was fog, and I did not know about the existence of some toll roads here. And when I traveled from Prague, I lost these bicycle path signs. Okay, I think I'll go in this direction. I leave and get on some very big road, trucks are going there and I’m honking. I was surprised - you guys signal me? Here the curb is healthy, I can drive. And they all honk, waving their hands. I think: “Here are the brazen people! You can't ride a bike! ”.

As a result, it turned out to be a paid expressway, where cyclists are not allowed to drive - the fine is about 2000 kroons. I was stopped by the police. They caught up with me, stopped me, began to explain, and I don’t understand what they say, because it was when I lived in Prague for only 3 weeks.

- That is, the language did not understand?

- At all. Then somehow “Do you speak English?” - one policeman spoke more or less English, he began to explain to me, they say, dude, there is a high-speed track, you can't be here, what are you doing here? I somehow replied that I was actually driving along the Prague-Tabor cycle path. They are: “Aha, not really.” And it seemed that now I would have some problems. But what did these guys do? They said, they say, you do not know anything here, we have explained all this to you now, and you need to somehow move down this road. And the exit is only 5 km away. And they say: “Go with us.” And they followed me for 30 km / h with flashing lights. When we arrived, they showed me something, poured water (they were very surprised that I was without water at all) and sent me to Tabor on this bike path.

- Is a fine written out?

- A fine is not written!

They said: "If we see you again, it will be fine, because you now know everything." That was a pleasant conversation with the police.

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- You are actually the first to express such an idea in our line of interviews with specialists who moved from Russia to other countries. Because usually everybody expresses something different: the standard of living rises at the expense of some services, at the expense of something else ...

- Maybe this is somehow related to the fact that I and the Field of Mars were good at reading poetry and getting some coins there in my time. That is, now it would be bad, yes - and then it would be good. It seems to me that I am so logical (logical for myself) and develop smoothly ... when I lived in St. Petersburg, I generally liked everything, except for the rain. Rain, of course, kills, yes. And what can I say about the Czech Republic - it's the weather! There is beautiful weather. Guys, if you got Peter, with his constant rain, wind - then yes, this [Czech Republic] is what you need!

- So your recipe is that a person paints a place, and not vice versa?

- The only way. In fact, I am not saying this only from my own experience; I also saw those guys who tried in every possible way to move for a better life. Well, they find “shoals” here all the time, that is, they are bad everywhere, they are being deceived everywhere — nowhere are they deceiving me.

- In general, I understood you: if you do not want to search for the bad, you will not find it. Excellent position. Well, Andrei, thank you very much for the interview, it was very interesting, you are a wonderful interlocutor.

- Thank you very much!

You can download and listen to the full podcast here .

And to anyone who wants to form their opinion about Prague, we are ready to offer an interesting job, with interesting relocation conditions .