How to novice assemble quadrocopter ZMR250 / QAV250 with Aliexpress (1 part)

Prologue

Now on the Internet you can find several useful tutorials (all links at the end of the article) on how to assemble the drone on the 250 frame yourself. But, collecting my first quadric for these articles, I ran into problems that were not covered in any way. Namely: I did not find a complete sheet of parts and additional equipment that I need, the price of a complete assembly, as well as some practical and theoretical issues. That is why it was decided to make this article in the form of summarizing my personal experience and the experience of other people in order to help beginners (like me) to build their first drone as productively as possible.

Part 1 will be devoted to the selection of parts, equipment, assembly and connection of all units of the driver. The program side will be discussed in part 2.

Immediately report that I got:
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The video shows that the legs of the drone were missing during the flight, but more on that later.

The list of frequently asked questions:

Q : Isn't it easier to buy a ready quad and fly?
A : Easier, only if you are not going to continue to improve your drone and build others. That is, you just want to fly, and not break your head and waste precious time. The magazine drone is in any case easier to master and easier to operate. Alternatively, I can offer MJX Bugs 3 . Review it here . Price from ~ $ 120.

Q : Do I need to solder?
A : Yes, you need!

Q : Is it cheaper to assemble a quadric than to buy it in a store?
A : No! I think this is a delusion. If you are a beginner, and since you are reading this article, most likely the way it is, then apart from the details for the quadrocopter, you will need a lot more. I enclose the list below.

List to purchase:

In order not to bother with the selection of the main components, I see an excellent alternative in buying a ready-made set. Without losing time on the selection of parts, you get everything you need.


Everything you get is included. The picture does not show connecting wires from the controller to the transmitter

1) A set of parts with Aliexpress ~ 4000 rub.
1.1 Frame
1.2 Brushless Marspower MX1806 2280KV 12 A motors
1.3 Emax Simon K Series 12A Regulators
1.4 Distribution Board and Power Wires
1.5 Flight controller CC3D (my choice of NAZE 32 FULL . I bought it separately, because the CC3D from the set burned out. There are no differences in the settings of the CC3D and NAZE 32 FULL. Here is an interesting article about flight controllers).
1.6 Connecting wires from the controller to the transmitter
1.7 4 propellers (2 left, 2 right)
1.8 Screws and hexagons. I do not know about the others, but I was already given 4 identical hexagons for the screws that secure the motors, but not one for tightening the screws on the frame


Turnigy 9X Receiver and Transmitter

2) Turnigy 9X 9Ch radio remote control + receiver (all in one set) ~ 3400 rub.

Q : Why is this model?
A : First, 9 independent channels, that is, a huge stock of opportunities for the future. Secondly, a huge amount of information on configuration and firmware. Very popular model among modellers. But, if you are set up VERY seriously, then I advise Turnigy 9XR or 9XR-Pro.

Q : Can I take a cheaper model?
A : Yes, it is completely your choice. I do not advise taking equipment with less than 6 channels, since in addition to controlling it is necessary to switch flight modes. By the way, there are ready-made kits already with equipment, for example, such .

3) At least 2 additional sets of propellers (4 pcs included: 2 left, 2 right) ~ 0-100 rub.

Propellers are really consumable during the first flights, so it’s better to take them with a reserve. Strangely enough, but it is more expensive to order from China, and to wait a long time. The maximum diameter is 5 inches. I bought here .


Batteries from Aliexpress. Both are out of order. The left bank refused the second bank, the right bank - the third.


Left: battery for the radio remote control with JR connector (black head). Right: quadrocopter power battery

4) At least 1 battery to power a quadrocopter, and preferably 2 ~ 1239-2478 rubles.

Q : Why two? Are you a little one?
A: Yes, a little! The battery lasts for about 10-12 minutes of flight, and it charges for 1-2 hours, therefore, after stepping into courage, do not go recharging, but fly further, I advise you to take a couple. Pay attention to the labeling of batteries, read about it here .

I strongly advise you not to buy batteries from China: both batteries ordered by me are out of order, that is, they stopped producing the required voltage (they failed in one bank). Yes, perhaps a matter of chance, but there were no such problems with other batteries, and the savings of 150 rubles. not worth the risk.


Turnigy 9X with battery. Sits very tight, the lid closes

5) Battery for radio remote control. ~ 1199 rub.
Q : I already bought two. Need another one?
A : That's right. For the transmitter, you need a special battery with a low discharge current.

In the standard set, the remote comes with a battery holder, which is not acceptable for frequent departures. I explain: the batteries lose their voltage quickly, the problem with charging, and the cost is high. Also pay attention to the presence of a JR battery connector. In this case, you will not need to rewrite anything. By the way, if you are going to buy another battery (not like me), do not be lazy to take the remote with you to try it on the spot. My breaks into the standard compartment with difficulty, but the lid still closes.

6) Charger for iMAX B6 ~ 1230 rub.

iMAX B6 allows you to charge the battery banks evenly using the balancing connector. The most popular charge.

Q : How to use it? Which modes to choose?
A : Answers here

7) Adapter from XT-60 to T-connector ~ 140 rub.

If you take the same batteries to power a quadrocopter, like me, you need an adapter for charging, since it is not in the standard set of iMAX B6.

8) Voltage indicator for 1-8 cans Li-Po battery ~ 230 rub.

This thing will show the voltage on the banks, as well as notify you when the charge drops below the level you specified, so that the copter does not fall from a height and the battery has lived for a long time. Video on how to use.

9) Tarrot 300 mm clasp for mounting the battery (2 pieces included). Elastic strap 22 * 200mm for mounting the camera. ~ 90 + 50 rub.

Fasteners and straps are a purely personal matter. The way in which the battery and camera will be fixed is limited only by your imagination. Pay attention to the size of the straps.


4 screws for 16 mm instead of 8 mm

10) Melochovka ~ 300 rubles.
10.1 20 washers under the screws on the frame and the screws holding the motors. The fact is that the caps of the screws are small and, with an overload, they spoil the frame
10.2 4 screws by 16 mm instead of 8 mm. With the help of such screws, we also managed to fix the legs printed on a 3D printer ( video from print ). Standard legs broke after one hard landing, found an alternative in the printed. In general, high legs are a useful thing when taking off from the ground or a wet surface.
10.3 Shrinking. It will be useful when you hide the regulators
10.4 Plastic clips 10 cm (9 pcs.) For fixing regulators
10.5 Double-sided tape, electrical tape
10.6 Screw and nut for camera. Strap-like situation - all your imagination
10.7 Elastic bands. Suitable for fixing the receiver, controller, distribution board and regulators


Propeller protection printed on a 3D printer

10.8 Optional: protection for propellers . I also printed it on a 3D printer. It was useful only once, when did a test take-off in the room. After crashing into the closet, the defense shattered. I don't use it anymore. The holes on the defense, by the way, do not coincide with the holes on the frame. It is necessary either to do it yourself or modify the model on the computer.

I bought all small things here1 and here2 .

10) Soldering iron itself.

The total cost of ~ 11878 - 13217 rubles.

If you are surprised by the list, then it is worth noting that most of everything you buy will serve you more than once.

I also want to note that prices are constantly changing, so I can not guarantee the minimum cost of links. I am sure that you can find cheaper. I only shared one-on-one sources that coincided with mine.

Assembly

Frame assembly

There is a possibility that the kit of parts will come to you without instructions for assembling the frame. So it was with me. If this is what happened, then we collect by image or video. At this stage you should not tighten all the screws in the "combat mode", you may have to disassemble the frame more than once. The top part at this stage should not be screwed at all; without it, it is more convenient to work with the inside of the copter. Also do not forget about shaybochki, which I wrote above.


Do not forget about washers. Of course, you do not have a white plate - these are the remains of 3D printed legs



Installation of motors

Very simple operation, if you remember about the direction of rotation of the engines. Decide where you will be in front. Motors with a black nut, rotating clockwise, we put on the front left and rear right places.


Pay attention to the location of the engines


Engine mount

Soldering

Soldering distribution board

So, you have already tried on and decided how everything will be installed. Time to solder. When soldering the board, the most important thing is to observe the polarity! Where it is not important to solder the wires, it all depends on how you are going to install the board.


Solder regulators and power wires. Observe the polarity. (My version)


Solder regulators and power wires. Observe the polarity. (Another variant)

Solder the regulators to the motors

First of all we remove from the regulators the standard red thermal shrinkage. In order for the motors to rotate in the direction we need, the regulators to the motors should be soldered like this:


Connecting regulators to motors

I think that you have a question: where to put the long wires from the regulators. They can be unsoldered and removed completely, and can be cut to the desired length. The second method for beginners is preferable, since there is less chance of overheating the regulator during soldering.


Fully sealed off standard wires regulator. So I do not advise, it is better to just shorten the wires ( do not pay attention to the location of the wires, the picture is taken to show something else. The correct scheme is above )

Solder the T-connector. Polarity is important!

Fasten the power board, speed control

Time to fix. Remember that the frame of the copter conducts current, so the board must be isolated from it. I planted it on two layers of double-sided tape, pulled the collar from one side, and then secured it with an elastic band.


We fasten the board. Two layers of double-sided tape + collar + gum

I hid the speed regulators in a heat shrink, put them on a double-sided tape, tightened with collars and tightened it with a rubber band to be sure. Looks more than reliable


Fasten regulators. Thermoshrinkage + double-sided tape + clamps + gum

Fasten flight controller, receiver

In the case again come double-sided tape and gum. Again, the harder you fix, the better.

I have done this as follows:


Fasten the flight controller (1). Grass remained after crash


Fasten flight controller (2)


Fasten the receiver. Butt he also sits on a double-sided scotch

We connect all the wires

Flight Controller Regulators

From each of the regulators we have 3 wires. You need to do the following: on three of the four regulators you need to pull out the red wire from the connector. Connect the wires to the controller need in a certain order, this will be discussed in the next section.


Three of the four regulators need to pull the red wire out of the connector.

Flight Controller Receiver

And here the order of connecting the wires to each channel is not important. You just need to properly connect the power cord - the white wire is closer to the side with the sticker.


We connect the receiver with the flight controller. The power cord should be white closer to the label side.

We fasten the upper part of the frame, look what happened

I also added a “camera mount”.


"Camera Mount"

Total:

About the falls and what to do while waiting for the parcel

Be prepared for the fact that first there will be a fall. And this: broken propellers, legs and camera in my case.


Broken legs


Broken camera By the way, I advise you to additionally glue the connector with a flash drive with tape, there is a chance of loss when falling

But the video from my very first flight:



To prevent this from happening, I advise you to buy small quadrics for indoor flights. During the waiting time, the control skill will rise very much. My choice fell on the Syma X12S . Issue price ~ 1445 rubles.

Promised links to articles

Article 1 | Article 2 | Article 3 | Article 4 | Article 5 | Article 6 | Article 7

Glad if someone helped! Also open for your comments and comments.

2 part soon.