Unusual light bulb
Want to become the owner of the gadget, which no one else has? - Do it yourself
If you know which side to take on the soldering iron, then it is enough to buy 4 superbright white LEDs, a piece of the layout and dig in your box with junk - and you have everything you need to create an original lamp.
First of all, we find in the trash an old 110 volt power supply - every second one has something similar to it from an old modem or hub, in the hope that someday it will come in handy. Spit - not useful. Hammer in hand, a few blows to the plastic case - and you become the owner of 4 diodes and a capacitor (the rest can be thrown out). So, here is our initial configuration:
A couple of words literacy. When discussing LEDs, it is easy to distinguish a specialist from a kettle - the kettle will say “I need a 12 volt LED”, and a specialist will answer “you have a 100mA LED”. Usually determining in the characteristics of the diode is the operating current, which is set connected in series with the LED resistor. And then, according to the law of Comrade Om, you make yourself a LED for at least 5 volts, at least for 12. But in this simplest scheme we can afford to act in a teapot style. The bottom line is that white LEDs in the optimal mode, usually the voltage at the pn junction is 3.2-3.4 volts. By connecting 4 pieces in series, we (having lost a little in brightness, but having won in reliability) will get a 12 volt light bulb :) Considering that all 12 volt fixtures produce alternating voltage, we will have to take care of the rectification. So we get the scheme:
We warm up the soldering iron, get tin and rosin and proceed to assembly. First, a diode bridge and a capacitor are assembled on a breadboard:
Here we solder the LEDs and bend them in the opposite direction. In this case, the capacitor we have the light bulb body.
')
Cut off a small piece of twisted pair
and form at the end of the legs of our light bulb. If the wire is twisted in half and zaludit - due to the twist it turns out just the standard thickness of the legs.
Solder the wire to the board and check the performance of the circuit by applying voltage. If there was a clap and smoke started, it means that you just mixed up the polarity of the capacitor, try to repeat everything, starting with the hammer strikes the body of the next power supply, but this time carefully watch for the correct polarity.
If the LEDs are lit and for 5 minutes nothing starts to be smoked, then turn off the soldering iron and turn on the glue gun instead. Here it is possible absolutely unrestrained orgy of fantasy in the manufacture of the case:
After the glue cools, we install a light bulb instead of a standard one and admire the effect produced. For comparison - 4 LEDs for 80mA give more light than a 25W light bulb, while consuming 25 times less energy.
Homework - repeat the design, using 8 LEDs in the form of 2 chains of 4 pieces each.
If you know which side to take on the soldering iron, then it is enough to buy 4 superbright white LEDs, a piece of the layout and dig in your box with junk - and you have everything you need to create an original lamp.
First of all, we find in the trash an old 110 volt power supply - every second one has something similar to it from an old modem or hub, in the hope that someday it will come in handy. Spit - not useful. Hammer in hand, a few blows to the plastic case - and you become the owner of 4 diodes and a capacitor (the rest can be thrown out). So, here is our initial configuration:
A couple of words literacy. When discussing LEDs, it is easy to distinguish a specialist from a kettle - the kettle will say “I need a 12 volt LED”, and a specialist will answer “you have a 100mA LED”. Usually determining in the characteristics of the diode is the operating current, which is set connected in series with the LED resistor. And then, according to the law of Comrade Om, you make yourself a LED for at least 5 volts, at least for 12. But in this simplest scheme we can afford to act in a teapot style. The bottom line is that white LEDs in the optimal mode, usually the voltage at the pn junction is 3.2-3.4 volts. By connecting 4 pieces in series, we (having lost a little in brightness, but having won in reliability) will get a 12 volt light bulb :) Considering that all 12 volt fixtures produce alternating voltage, we will have to take care of the rectification. So we get the scheme:
We warm up the soldering iron, get tin and rosin and proceed to assembly. First, a diode bridge and a capacitor are assembled on a breadboard:
Here we solder the LEDs and bend them in the opposite direction. In this case, the capacitor we have the light bulb body.
')
Cut off a small piece of twisted pair
and form at the end of the legs of our light bulb. If the wire is twisted in half and zaludit - due to the twist it turns out just the standard thickness of the legs.
Solder the wire to the board and check the performance of the circuit by applying voltage. If there was a clap and smoke started, it means that you just mixed up the polarity of the capacitor, try to repeat everything, starting with the hammer strikes the body of the next power supply, but this time carefully watch for the correct polarity.
If the LEDs are lit and for 5 minutes nothing starts to be smoked, then turn off the soldering iron and turn on the glue gun instead. Here it is possible absolutely unrestrained orgy of fantasy in the manufacture of the case:
After the glue cools, we install a light bulb instead of a standard one and admire the effect produced. For comparison - 4 LEDs for 80mA give more light than a 25W light bulb, while consuming 25 times less energy.
Homework - repeat the design, using 8 LEDs in the form of 2 chains of 4 pieces each.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/40322/
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