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Ode to winter humidity or user experiences dryness

In general, as the "brutal Siberian peasant" relies, I never paid attention to such trifles as dryness at home. If only it was cool. I remembered the humidity only in summer, when it is hot and the humidity turns into nasty damp.

But then from the beginning of the new year I began to test Magic Air in my house and saw that in winter, with good ventilation, the humidity of the house was lower than in the Sahara Desert! My record is 7%, this is generally game and dry incredible. In physics, it was “so understandable”, the cold air from the street at home heats up and its relative humidity almost disappears. But here, as they say, it is better to see once.

Perhaps the classical hypochondria began later, but I felt uneasy because of such drying. But after returning from vacation, where he got used to a normal humidity of 60%, the trouble began. Your throat is torn from dryness, you wake up - your nose is clogged up by you-know-what, you feel like a sponge with Bob, who was thrown onto the beach. At first I even tried, according to the old Soviet tradition, to put jars of water and rags wet at the battery, but, as measurements showed, this is “friggin lemonade”, the effect is close to zero.
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It got to the point that once in an “especially dry” morning, I ran into a bath, soaked a rag and lay-breathed through it to let it go ...

By the way, the topic of humidity, it is necessary to get rid of it). It is clear that in dryness all the mucous membranes "become useless" and the defense of the immune system decreases. In general, there are studies that influenza epidemics occur as a result of a sharp decrease in humidity. We even wrote an article about this.

The fact is not obvious. On the one hand, in the dryness, the carrier droplets of the virus in the air dry out faster, but, apparently, the effect of weakening the protection majorizes. Plus, it should be noted that the natural “killers” of the virus, such as ozone and all radicals, which are always present in the air, significantly increase their disinfectant effect with increasing humidity.
PS: This is by no means a call to put ozonizers, this is a separate topic and very dangerous when uncontrolled release into the air of various oxidizers and active compounds!

About the fact that "and so it is clear" from the engineers, physicists from Tiona


Absolute humidity , or moisture content - the number of grams of water in a cubic meter of air. Completely dry air has an absolute humidity of 0 g / m3.
Moisture content - maximum absolute humidity. Assume that the air capacity is 10 g / m3. So, if 11 grams of water vapor is “poured” into a cubic meter of this air, then 10 grams will still fit into it, but an extra gram will fall out in the form of condensate.
Relative humidity - the ratio of the actual absolute humidity and moisture capacity. In other words, this is an indicator of how close the air is to its maximum saturation with water vapor. If the water capacity is 10 g / m3 and the actual absolute humidity is 5 g / m3, then the relative humidity is 50%.
A simple physical fact: the higher the temperature, the greater the moisture content of the air :


At high temperatures, the air "holds" more water than at low. If a warm room contains 5 grams of water in a cubic meter of air, its relative humidity will barely exceed 20%. And we "pour" the same 5 grams per cubic meter of air at 0 ° C - and it is already "overflowed". Relative humidity is more than 100%, and excess water will condense out.

Remember how water drops appear on the bottle from the refrigerator. The air is cooled near its walls, the moisture content drops, and the actual absolute humidity does not change. Accordingly, the relative humidity rises to 100% and the dew point is reached. Excess water appears in the air, and they settle on the bottle as condensate.

The opposite story, when cold air from the street gets into a warm room. The air warms, its capacity increases, and the relative humidity drops. Now it is not the excess water that forms, but, on the contrary, its deficiency. The air becomes dry. And, the greater the temperature difference on the street and in the house, the stronger the air "dries".

Do batteries dry the air?


The wet cloth dries on the battery because the water in it heats up and evaporates. But in the air the water is already in a gaseous state . Heating by itself does not reduce the amount of water vapor in the air. The heating system lowers the relative humidity in the house due to the heating of the incoming outside air, and, therefore, increasing its moisture capacity.

Thus, the cause of dryness in winter is not the batteries, but air circulation. And, more precisely, the flow of cold air from the street (through open windows, gaps in the walls and inlet devices). It is impossible to refuse air exchange, it is necessary, and this is a “medical fact”. So, if you do not live in the laundry room, you have heating and the room is well ventilated (ventilated), then in the winter there will be a problem with dry air in your house anyway.


User experience for the choice of "iron"


In general, gritting my teeth, I forked overseas humidifier. And to do sho, if we have not yet developed our own in Tione ... Then a few words about how I chose. Since we started this topic of digging, with the help of our engineers, we’ve taken a little closer to the technique. Therefore, I immediately disdained ultrasound - consider my problem, but I don’t want to breathe all that is found in tap water, salts of all kinds and other evil creatures. All declared softeners and super-nano rods cannot remove all this slag, and pour five liters of distillate per day - dismiss it, look for it yourself). We do not have a stationary reverse osmosis filter, sir ... "The Kettle" also does not want to, it will eat electricity like horse. So I was immediately for natural moisturizing, that is, everything that is included in the "surface" (adiabatic) humidifiers or "air washing". Well, I love everything natural to do). There just a rag or a disk is constantly getting wet, but at the same time they turn and blow the fan. There are, of course, disadvantages - the higher the relative humidity, the worse the process, however, this correlates with our needs for moisture - the wetter, the less air we “suck” out of the sponge. Well, according to calculations for one room in winter, with normal ventilation, the power is needed at about 500 g / hour. Then I polished a little reviews / characteristics and ordered well. Immediately make a reservation that I will not indicate the brand, it would have cost the manufacturer too much).

Another word to physical engineers


The main types of humidifiers:

Adiabatic
In them, natural evaporation occurs at room temperature upon contact of air with a moist developed surface (disks of different materials, porous cartridges, etc.). Energy for evaporation is taken from the room air (the work process is accompanied by a slight decrease in its temperature). The rate of humidification (mg / hour) depends on the speed of the blower of the disk or cartridge by the fan, the area of ​​the wet surface and the current relative humidity in the room, therefore it does not always correspond to the stated. “Air Wash” is one of the marketing names for such humidifiers. "Wash" is associated with "cleaning", although in the process of moistening as such, cleaning does not occur. Cleaning is possible if the manufacturer additionally installs filters (for example, HEPA).

Steam
In these devices, the process of moistening is isothermal: humidity is increased by vaporization. Steam models are simpler from a hardware point of view: they are literally simple, like a kettle. The energy for evaporation is “pumped” directly into the water through the heating element, so these evaporators have maximum power consumption. The rate of moistening is mainly determined by the energy consumption of heating elements, therefore it is stable and easy to control.

Ultrasound
In them, the water comes into contact with a thin membrane, which often fluctuates, and its vibrations are broken up into a fine aerosol. And then in the air, these tiny droplets evaporate naturally, without heating. The energy for evaporation is again taken from the room air, but the evaporation process itself, unlike the two previous types, occurs not in the device, but already in the room. In fact, it is a “sprinkler”. The rate of moistening is mainly determined by the power of the ultrasonic sprinkler, is fairly stable and is also easy to control.

Calculation of the required rate of moistening


Consider the case when the temperature outside -5 ° C and relative humidity of 80%. When heated to 25 ° C in a room, the relative humidity drops to 12%.



Question: “how much to hang in grams”? That is, how many grams of water must be added to a cubic meter of air in order to raise the relative humidity in the room from 12%, say, to the optimum 50%?

To reach the 50% mark at 25 ° in the air should be 11.5 g / m3. In our room air there is still 2.7 g / m3 left from the street. It turns out that the humidifier will need to “release” another 8.8 g / m3 into the air. To recalculate this figure in g / h you need to know the air exchange, i.e. how much air comes from the street.

For a room with 2 people, the minimum air exchange to remove carbon dioxide is 60m3 per hour. Thus, the minimum rate of moisture in the winter should be 500 g / m3. Next, we must choose a balance between comfort / health and cost. The more air we supply from the street (airing, ventilation), the better for our body. But this increases the load on the filters in the ventilation, the cost of heating the supply air, as well as the power requirements of the humidifier.

What is in the box?


As they brought the box, I got up with my nose in all the cracks. Inside the device is as simple as a hammer. At the entrance hepushka, do not understand what kind of physical parameters (they don’t like to indicate physical parameters in the passport, only marketing gibberish, such as a nano-Schman-protective filter). All air through it is first cleaned. I like the cleaning is not very important, because Breezer stands and clean air drives, but definitely better with her than without her.

Then the wheel with some kind of accordion (such as the F5 filter) all the time goes into the pan and is blown by the fan. True, they write about my new friend in reviews that consumables are expensive, but I know the engineering life hack. There, the time replacement is sewn up, the timer can be reset with pens, but it is not necessary to change it in time, but only according to the efficiency of moistening. If the timer is on, but it moistens the norms, then it is not necessary to change it. The noise spread in speeds like that of kondey and breathers is approximately standard for climate technology.

By the rate of hydration. With a running inlet (60 cubes), humidity can be raised above 40% only if you close the door to the room. But as if I don’t need more.



I measured the humidity in other rooms - it also increased, approximately to 25-30%, that is, one way or another, due to air exchange and convection, the humidity spreads around the apartment and in fact the humidifier “pulls” almost all the rooms alone. At the same time, water consumption is about 10 liters per day, that is, a little less than 500 g / hour stated in the passport. The tank is only 3 liters, which, of course, strains - three times a day you carry water from the tap.

However, no matter what, I'll tell you what. I am writing these lines, dear friend, and the joy of my limit is not seen. Already when the humidity was above 25% (that's what I’m holding at 40% now), the sensations changed, like heaven and earth. All this, coupled with a low temperature (about 23 ° C) and continuous breather ventilation (CO2 not higher than 750ppm) makes me really good, the chakras have already been cleared. Especially nasal).

Here psychosomatics may have worked, but it seems to me that in dry air sleep and mood are worse. I did not study the topic, or rather, did not see such studies, but I suspect that humidity can strongly influence any “electrochemistry” in our body, so a real correlation is not excluded. I say goodbye for this, you can begin to envy). And it is better to stop yourself to dry in dust and rejoice with me).

PS:
Hello again). The thought of what should be a “dream moisturizer” bothers me. It seems that it should be a device under 1000 g / hour, in which the problem of “running around with a pot” is solved for refueling and splashing unauthorized devilry into the air.
By technology. Boiling is not at once, electricity is several times more expensive than water heating. It may still be ultrasound, but then you need a built-in reverse osmosis filter. The adiabatic theme is very close to me personally, because Allows you to also integrate the cleaning into the device. However, what to do with the dependence of the rate of moisture on humidity in the room? It is possible to add heating water or evaporating surfaces. Yes, it will increase energy consumption, but it will be significantly lower than that of the "boiler", plus the inclusion of necessity - when the rate of moistening begins to fall.

Now about refueling water. Already itching to say that you need to connect a humidifier to the water supply and forget. However, this will immediately make it a complex product that requires special installation, laying pipes around the apartment. Someone is satisfied, but not all. For example, I wanted a “box solution”, like a tablet from the head, bought-turned on-happiness. Maybe this is not a capital pipe, but a flexible hose that can be thrown over the faucet? It's still better than carrying a bucket three times a day.

In general, I propose to “broach” on this topic, write in the comment, discuss it.

Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/391165/


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