Wanhao Duplicator 4, Millennium Falcon and File
This article will be about how I “dopilivat a file” 3d printer Wanhao Duplicator 4.
It will be a general addition to the articles of the Wanhao Duplicator 4 3d printer or how to save on MakerBot Replicator and How I bought, I finished and set up the Chinese 3D printer Wanhao Duplicator 4 , since they helped me with some of its settings, for which a special thank you to the authors.
The final video check of printing time (about 4.5 hours), the height of the model, the reliability of the plastic supply, heating and in general.
')
Under the cut a lot of photos, so neat.
These articles provide examples of configuration, and indeed, the printer out of the box does not work:
The first thing that cleared up after studying the information about the printer is that it needs glass for the heating table, since everything seems to melt directly. Links were found on the Internet, some stores sell it for about 1,200 rubles. Nowhere was it indicated what, calling a friend, telling about the need to withstand 100 degrees, it was proposed to take ordinary glass, and if it cracks, order an already refractory one, I decided to stop at a normal size of 4-5 mm. Having informed the sizes of a little table glass with the smoothed edges was cut out and established on a little table.
The second moment, when printing on glass, with fastening with usual office clips, it turned out that the parts were detached from the glass. I need scotch. What kind of tape? Paint! Perfectly approached, glued, removed, helps when printing large figures, they easily move away from the table.
Then, for the sake of prevention, between the table and the glass was added with a thick, thick layer of thermal grease. Well, maybe not quite, but she is there. All this once again stuck.
We go further, the third - the calibration table. How it should be calibrated was not clear until I saw the video.
Taking the usual A4 sheet, folding it in half, I clamped and calibrated the distance so that the sheet of paper was clamped, but at the same time it could move. Imagine that also an extruder (a nozzle, I will call it a nozzle) will move around the table. Too tight - it will touch, if it is too high, it will hang in the air, it will freeze in the process, or not in general.
Fourth , the printer lacks cooling parts after exiting the nozzle. An interesting moment in general, the 3D printer itself must print the part with which it will be better to print.
Link to the model for download and description: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918
A small addition, the printer has two nozzles, you can print two colors, the left auxiliary, and the right main and when printing large parts, the left nozzle zazhevalo part.
Therefore, fifth , you need to see that both nozzles are aligned. For printing, I first removed it above in general, then returned it and leveled it with a ruler, tests for printing and on the EYE. By the way, it is relatively easy to disassemble; you will need screwdrivers and pliers.
After that, it turned out this:
Curved, with an exciting observation of the printing process, it appeared.
Now you need a sixth fan. The printer has fans at 24V, and computers almost never have these, a suitable 4 cm fan at 12v was found in the nearest radio store, a separate power supply unit was installed inside the printer and attached to the cooling unit with screws, wires stretched along the main cable channel. It was actually bought two, and for good reason, one was broken, the screws were big, but it was a test and he got into a temporary installation. With it, several details were printed and the result really improved.
As a result, he was able to print himself an ideal part.
Next you need to pick up the bolts, nuts, how long it took to mess with it.
The seventh moment, the software and its configuration. I hope that if someone reads how to set up the printer, he will first read the article, we should return to the settings above, but no, I’ve almost made it this way.
With the printer, the native ReplicatorG program is running, downloaded and installed from the Internet from the printer’s official site, in my opinion it seemed incomprehensible and required printing a python when printing, although it was already installed, but it will be useful to us for detailed settings.
The program with which I type (hello friendly interface) is called MakerBot.
Right at the time of this writing, Bender is printed and the previous details have been printed all through it. It is worth recalling that this is a Chinese printer and a copy of the Makerbot Replicator, so the software is from them.
The important point is the temperature . The printer was set at 255 degrees and the plastic twisting stopped.
In it, there are buttons for upgrading the firmware of the printer, well, just suggest poking.
do not press the red button.jpg
He successfully updated to firmware 7.7, it seems. I thought very well and continued. When checking the printing of models with two colors, the program diligently said that it is one-color. A long search began and the printer setup process continued. Requests in English helped me well, so I went to the forum where there were discussions on various issues regarding its settings.
In the process, it was decided to put the firmware Sailfish , it supposedly improves print quality, well, why not try, maybe the second nozzle will work with it. It is downloaded from the site of models, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing682084 or by entering Sailfish on the site itself. At the time of this writing, the current file:
Further, there we once again go to update and see our printer in the list. We reflash and ... nothing. Almost nothing, the menu inside the printer changes a little, which is available on the printer itself.
Feature , MakerBot Replicator 2X firmware was tried after which it was not turned on. For a second it seemed to me that everything had arrived. On the monitor of the printer it did not load, nothing was displayed at all. Yes, no, it can not be, but come back to the old firmware, reflash! At this point, I remembered when the last time we turned off the light, it happens sometimes, but these 30-60 seconds of flashing are exciting. This is where the game is with light and darkness! The real risk. But back, suddenly, the firmware that brought the second nozzle back to life was not MakerBot 2, not Wanhao Duplicator 4, it didn’t work with it either. And MakerBot Replicator 1. Ie. our clone, clone is not 2 maker bot, but the first, such things.
Here is the result, as seen after the flashing. He reflash through ReplicatorG.
It was only part of the software setup.
Eight , the seal of the second nozzle was not stable. The plastic was in the nozzle, but stopped typing at any time. Everything was decided after the feed unit was disassembled and it turned out that it was clogged and could not normally take the plastic and push it through. After cleaning, fixation improved.
Another point, the second nozzle is included in the printer menu , Utilities-General Settings - Extruder Count 2, the default was 1.
Slightly complementing the topic, the process of printing Bender is already at 62%.
And then his hand fell off, so do not forget to set a supporting grid in the settings for small parts. Raft in the program setup. But never mind, we will repair this “metal ass”.
Nine , on the back of the printer, the plastic constantly touched the case and creaked; additional tubes were put in to facilitate plastic movement.
Ten , when printing with the help of two SOPELs, the second nozzle left behind the edges, the settings were reset.
You can see the setup information here: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/LT_mJYouFvI
During the second run, the second nozzle began to print next to the first one.
Having printed out such a result, it was already approximately clear what needs to be done.
Here are the coordinate axes of our printer and after them after the test print we are looking in which direction to change the parameters of the printer for printing.
In my case it took to add 1 mm to the right and this is what happened.
And finally, a tick Support , it will support the details that you will have above the level of printing. This model was printed without this support, but who then knew.
And finally, photos of the Millennium Falcon.
I hope this will be useful, because it took a lot of time to finish this without instructions.
It will be a general addition to the articles of the Wanhao Duplicator 4 3d printer or how to save on MakerBot Replicator and How I bought, I finished and set up the Chinese 3D printer Wanhao Duplicator 4 , since they helped me with some of its settings, for which a special thank you to the authors.
The final video check of printing time (about 4.5 hours), the height of the model, the reliability of the plastic supply, heating and in general.
')
Under the cut a lot of photos, so neat.
These articles provide examples of configuration, and indeed, the printer out of the box does not work:
If you have too much free time, the 3D printer will easily solve this problem.
The first thing that cleared up after studying the information about the printer is that it needs glass for the heating table, since everything seems to melt directly. Links were found on the Internet, some stores sell it for about 1,200 rubles. Nowhere was it indicated what, calling a friend, telling about the need to withstand 100 degrees, it was proposed to take ordinary glass, and if it cracks, order an already refractory one, I decided to stop at a normal size of 4-5 mm. Having informed the sizes of a little table glass with the smoothed edges was cut out and established on a little table.
The second moment, when printing on glass, with fastening with usual office clips, it turned out that the parts were detached from the glass. I need scotch. What kind of tape? Paint! Perfectly approached, glued, removed, helps when printing large figures, they easily move away from the table.
Then, for the sake of prevention, between the table and the glass was added with a thick, thick layer of thermal grease. Well, maybe not quite, but she is there. All this once again stuck.
We go further, the third - the calibration table. How it should be calibrated was not clear until I saw the video.
Taking the usual A4 sheet, folding it in half, I clamped and calibrated the distance so that the sheet of paper was clamped, but at the same time it could move. Imagine that also an extruder (a nozzle, I will call it a nozzle) will move around the table. Too tight - it will touch, if it is too high, it will hang in the air, it will freeze in the process, or not in general.
Fourth , the printer lacks cooling parts after exiting the nozzle. An interesting moment in general, the 3D printer itself must print the part with which it will be better to print.
Link to the model for download and description: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918
A small addition, the printer has two nozzles, you can print two colors, the left auxiliary, and the right main and when printing large parts, the left nozzle zazhevalo part.
Therefore, fifth , you need to see that both nozzles are aligned. For printing, I first removed it above in general, then returned it and leveled it with a ruler, tests for printing and on the EYE. By the way, it is relatively easy to disassemble; you will need screwdrivers and pliers.
After that, it turned out this:
Curved, with an exciting observation of the printing process, it appeared.
Now you need a sixth fan. The printer has fans at 24V, and computers almost never have these, a suitable 4 cm fan at 12v was found in the nearest radio store, a separate power supply unit was installed inside the printer and attached to the cooling unit with screws, wires stretched along the main cable channel. It was actually bought two, and for good reason, one was broken, the screws were big, but it was a test and he got into a temporary installation. With it, several details were printed and the result really improved.
As a result, he was able to print himself an ideal part.
Next you need to pick up the bolts, nuts, how long it took to mess with it.
The seventh moment, the software and its configuration. I hope that if someone reads how to set up the printer, he will first read the article, we should return to the settings above, but no, I’ve almost made it this way.
With the printer, the native ReplicatorG program is running, downloaded and installed from the Internet from the printer’s official site, in my opinion it seemed incomprehensible and required printing a python when printing, although it was already installed, but it will be useful to us for detailed settings.
The program with which I type (hello friendly interface) is called MakerBot.
Right at the time of this writing, Bender is printed and the previous details have been printed all through it. It is worth recalling that this is a Chinese printer and a copy of the Makerbot Replicator, so the software is from them.
The important point is the temperature . The printer was set at 255 degrees and the plastic twisting stopped.
In it, there are buttons for upgrading the firmware of the printer, well, just suggest poking.
do not press the red button.jpg
He successfully updated to firmware 7.7, it seems. I thought very well and continued. When checking the printing of models with two colors, the program diligently said that it is one-color. A long search began and the printer setup process continued. Requests in English helped me well, so I went to the forum where there were discussions on various issues regarding its settings.
In the process, it was decided to put the firmware Sailfish , it supposedly improves print quality, well, why not try, maybe the second nozzle will work with it. It is downloaded from the site of models, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing682084 or by entering Sailfish on the site itself. At the time of this writing, the current file:
replicatorg-0040r33-Sailfish-windows.zip 60mb
Further, there we once again go to update and see our printer in the list. We reflash and ... nothing. Almost nothing, the menu inside the printer changes a little, which is available on the printer itself.
Feature , MakerBot Replicator 2X firmware was tried after which it was not turned on. For a second it seemed to me that everything had arrived. On the monitor of the printer it did not load, nothing was displayed at all. Yes, no, it can not be, but come back to the old firmware, reflash! At this point, I remembered when the last time we turned off the light, it happens sometimes, but these 30-60 seconds of flashing are exciting. This is where the game is with light and darkness! The real risk. But back, suddenly, the firmware that brought the second nozzle back to life was not MakerBot 2, not Wanhao Duplicator 4, it didn’t work with it either. And MakerBot Replicator 1. Ie. our clone, clone is not 2 maker bot, but the first, such things.
Here is the result, as seen after the flashing. He reflash through ReplicatorG.
It was only part of the software setup.
Eight , the seal of the second nozzle was not stable. The plastic was in the nozzle, but stopped typing at any time. Everything was decided after the feed unit was disassembled and it turned out that it was clogged and could not normally take the plastic and push it through. After cleaning, fixation improved.
Another point, the second nozzle is included in the printer menu , Utilities-General Settings - Extruder Count 2, the default was 1.
Slightly complementing the topic, the process of printing Bender is already at 62%.
And then his hand fell off, so do not forget to set a supporting grid in the settings for small parts. Raft in the program setup. But never mind, we will repair this “metal ass”.
Nine , on the back of the printer, the plastic constantly touched the case and creaked; additional tubes were put in to facilitate plastic movement.
Ten , when printing with the help of two SOPELs, the second nozzle left behind the edges, the settings were reset.
You can see the setup information here: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/LT_mJYouFvI
During the second run, the second nozzle began to print next to the first one.
Having printed out such a result, it was already approximately clear what needs to be done.
Here are the coordinate axes of our printer and after them after the test print we are looking in which direction to change the parameters of the printer for printing.
In my case it took to add 1 mm to the right and this is what happened.
And finally, a tick Support , it will support the details that you will have above the level of printing. This model was printed without this support, but who then knew.
And finally, photos of the Millennium Falcon.
I hope this will be useful, because it took a lot of time to finish this without instructions.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/369211/
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