Replacing the deceased middle button of the Logitech G602 mouse
Good day, people Giktayms! The guide you are currently looking at is nothing more than a small set of photos with comments about the relatively simple operation of replacing the middle button of the Logitech Wireless Gaming G602 mouse . It was the frequency of angry mentions of its breakdown that prompted me, deciding to do an independent repair, to take a few photos in the hope of giving a hint to indecisive users with the same problem as inside and how.
To start a retreat. Choosing a mouse, I was repelled by just a few criteria. Firstly, it should be wireless, but with a long battery life. Secondly, additional customizable buttons to control the music. And thirdly, ergonomics and sensitivity in case of a sudden desire to play shooters. But basically the purpose of the mouse - sluggish crawling through the pages of the world wide web. And such a mouse was found - Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G602 . Studying the reviews, I read in several places before the purchase that the middle mouse button lives exactly six months, but the thought that the mouse would be used lightly and the price (at a discount) of 2,600 rubles prompted me to take a chance.
Here she is beautiful
Of course, it was unpleasant after exactly six months to within a week to locate the suddenly deceased middle button. And if in the browser you can still get used to closing tabs with a cross, and opening, holding Ctrl or dragging links, then sometimes you can suddenly find yourself with a sniper rifle without a zoom or lose a strike in melee, which is unpleasant.
')
Attempting to communicate with the vaunted Logitech tech support failed - they didn’t care and except for the “turn off, turn on” and “contact where they bought” notes, I didn’t get anything (they can be understood, of course, but the myth of their loyalty is dispelled to me locally) the mouse was bought in a non-resident online store with delivery, so that with them, too, repair somehow didn’t grow together. So I used to study the mouse, and remembering that I was far from alone, I took a series of photos of entrails for possible followers.
Of course, getting into an electronic device costs only at your own peril and risk , let alone void the warranty. This, in part, I understood from my own experience. But first things first.
To begin with, no matter how regrettable it is, it is necessary to tear off all the “legs”, except for two thin ones in the center, which can lead to their rupture, deformation and poor gluing back. Under the four extreme legs 6 screws. There are no latches between the two halves at all and after unscrewing the last screw, the mouse simply falls apart into halves connected by a train.
The location of the screws. All screws that need to be removed to replace the button are identical.
Train and insides. The battery pack is held on 3 screws, the main board is on two (this is a photo from the assembly process - batteries are inserted for testing)
And it immediately becomes clear why the vaunted mouse with repeatedly tested buttons with a huge resource suddenly breaks the middle button - it, unlike the others, is the simplest and cheapest, which are sold almost without any price on the radio market. I do not know that this is a planned obsolescence or only a calculation, that this button is the most unused, but the fact remains that the button is a one-time button.
Here are the buttons I had in comparison with what is needed (white on the left)
In general, in a good way, changing the button, it would be worthwhile to be confused by replacing with a more advanced one, but I surprisingly had no options that fit in size. And even more, the button turned out to be with a flatter working surface than its common relatives. But then I was lucky - there was only one similar one found in the zagashniki, either from the printer, or from the radio, and which had to be bitten off by the grounding leg. Any other standard would just have to file a file - and it would also fit.
A new button was found. Dirty and grounding, but works well. On the background you can see the buttons G10 and G11, the design and softness differ markedly
Unfortunately, the native button died completely, so that without a replacement (for example, laying a thin gasket) I could not have done. So I took the soldering iron and go. Here, with my 40W soldering iron, I encountered another problem inherent in many PRC-made devices, solder with a high melting point. I didn’t burn the fee - I bit out the button with pliers, and my legs had already faded out. With soldering a new button, there was no such problem - I used domestic solder.
Vypayano. Due to the improvisational nature of the work, it was not quite accurate.
A new button has fallen into place - the main thing is to press it against the board, so as not to reduce the gap between the button and the protrusion of the wheel block, this button pressing
The first assembly turned out to be successful at first glance, and I was very happy about the clearly and accurately functioning middle button. However, I noticed one nuisance - one of the side LEDs did not light up. Not that I really needed them (I don’t switch dpi), but they look stylish.
Having examined and checked the diode (it works fine), I concluded that something had closed - but I did not find any traces of solder or damage. And accidentally touching the board with my hand while the power was on, I realized that most likely it had happened. When touched, blue and green LEDs light up, which means, most likely, they are controlled by a low-power controller through field-effect transistors, one of which I could simply burn with static or touch with a soldering iron.
Humbled, collected. It turned out that the mouse stopped responding to the table and moved only on perfectly smooth surfaces - I had to sort and clean again, and also to make sure that there were no gaps and distortions and after the third assembly the mouse started working again. Only the LED did not work, but he fell victim to the good purpose - the ability to open tabs in a new window and beat opponents with a butt in games. Perhaps my repair will live exactly six months, but I still have to live to that time ...
In conclusion, I will say that if something breaks down, and there is no one to fix it, sometimes it is interesting and useful to do it yourself, if you are not afraid and be confident of success. Without a ready-made manual (maybe I’ve been looking bad ...) and advice, you can step on the rake, but if you are cautious and careful, everything will work out.
I don’t know if my mini-article will find its reader, but I sincerely hope that my little experiment will bring benefit to someone and I have not in vain kept the camera at hand.
To start a retreat. Choosing a mouse, I was repelled by just a few criteria. Firstly, it should be wireless, but with a long battery life. Secondly, additional customizable buttons to control the music. And thirdly, ergonomics and sensitivity in case of a sudden desire to play shooters. But basically the purpose of the mouse - sluggish crawling through the pages of the world wide web. And such a mouse was found - Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G602 . Studying the reviews, I read in several places before the purchase that the middle mouse button lives exactly six months, but the thought that the mouse would be used lightly and the price (at a discount) of 2,600 rubles prompted me to take a chance.
Here she is beautiful
Of course, it was unpleasant after exactly six months to within a week to locate the suddenly deceased middle button. And if in the browser you can still get used to closing tabs with a cross, and opening, holding Ctrl or dragging links, then sometimes you can suddenly find yourself with a sniper rifle without a zoom or lose a strike in melee, which is unpleasant.
')
Attempting to communicate with the vaunted Logitech tech support failed - they didn’t care and except for the “turn off, turn on” and “contact where they bought” notes, I didn’t get anything (they can be understood, of course, but the myth of their loyalty is dispelled to me locally) the mouse was bought in a non-resident online store with delivery, so that with them, too, repair somehow didn’t grow together. So I used to study the mouse, and remembering that I was far from alone, I took a series of photos of entrails for possible followers.
Of course, getting into an electronic device costs only at your own peril and risk , let alone void the warranty. This, in part, I understood from my own experience. But first things first.
To begin with, no matter how regrettable it is, it is necessary to tear off all the “legs”, except for two thin ones in the center, which can lead to their rupture, deformation and poor gluing back. Under the four extreme legs 6 screws. There are no latches between the two halves at all and after unscrewing the last screw, the mouse simply falls apart into halves connected by a train.
The location of the screws. All screws that need to be removed to replace the button are identical.
Train and insides. The battery pack is held on 3 screws, the main board is on two (this is a photo from the assembly process - batteries are inserted for testing)
And it immediately becomes clear why the vaunted mouse with repeatedly tested buttons with a huge resource suddenly breaks the middle button - it, unlike the others, is the simplest and cheapest, which are sold almost without any price on the radio market. I do not know that this is a planned obsolescence or only a calculation, that this button is the most unused, but the fact remains that the button is a one-time button.
Here are the buttons I had in comparison with what is needed (white on the left)
In general, in a good way, changing the button, it would be worthwhile to be confused by replacing with a more advanced one, but I surprisingly had no options that fit in size. And even more, the button turned out to be with a flatter working surface than its common relatives. But then I was lucky - there was only one similar one found in the zagashniki, either from the printer, or from the radio, and which had to be bitten off by the grounding leg. Any other standard would just have to file a file - and it would also fit.
A new button was found. Dirty and grounding, but works well. On the background you can see the buttons G10 and G11, the design and softness differ markedly
Unfortunately, the native button died completely, so that without a replacement (for example, laying a thin gasket) I could not have done. So I took the soldering iron and go. Here, with my 40W soldering iron, I encountered another problem inherent in many PRC-made devices, solder with a high melting point. I didn’t burn the fee - I bit out the button with pliers, and my legs had already faded out. With soldering a new button, there was no such problem - I used domestic solder.
Vypayano. Due to the improvisational nature of the work, it was not quite accurate.
A new button has fallen into place - the main thing is to press it against the board, so as not to reduce the gap between the button and the protrusion of the wheel block, this button pressing
The first assembly turned out to be successful at first glance, and I was very happy about the clearly and accurately functioning middle button. However, I noticed one nuisance - one of the side LEDs did not light up. Not that I really needed them (I don’t switch dpi), but they look stylish.
Having examined and checked the diode (it works fine), I concluded that something had closed - but I did not find any traces of solder or damage. And accidentally touching the board with my hand while the power was on, I realized that most likely it had happened. When touched, blue and green LEDs light up, which means, most likely, they are controlled by a low-power controller through field-effect transistors, one of which I could simply burn with static or touch with a soldering iron.
Humbled, collected. It turned out that the mouse stopped responding to the table and moved only on perfectly smooth surfaces - I had to sort and clean again, and also to make sure that there were no gaps and distortions and after the third assembly the mouse started working again. Only the LED did not work, but he fell victim to the good purpose - the ability to open tabs in a new window and beat opponents with a butt in games. Perhaps my repair will live exactly six months, but I still have to live to that time ...
In conclusion, I will say that if something breaks down, and there is no one to fix it, sometimes it is interesting and useful to do it yourself, if you are not afraid and be confident of success. Without a ready-made manual (maybe I’ve been looking bad ...) and advice, you can step on the rake, but if you are cautious and careful, everything will work out.
I don’t know if my mini-article will find its reader, but I sincerely hope that my little experiment will bring benefit to someone and I have not in vain kept the camera at hand.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/367417/
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