DIY Halloween Costume
This year, we agreed with friends to celebrate Halloween and to celebrate it in costumes. There were reasonable questions: where to find a suit, and what to look for a suit. I began my choice with a pirate, and finished with the costume of a plague doctor who I would do myself. Under the cut a small description of the process of preparing this costume.
This was a finished suit.
The article does not have any new fundamental tricks, rules and manuals, but perhaps it will help someone in modeling according to the principle “from what comes to hand”.
I apologize in advance for the type of narration similar to the picture below, I have not photographed everything, because The phone makes poor pictures, it does not focus, and the camera was not at hand.
')
I do not think that the story about sewing a cape would be appropriate here - I’m leaving this part out. Go to the mask. A short googling led on a roller on YouTube, how to make a cardboard beak. Cut the pattern, glued, it became clear - not that. Photos of masks from cardboard there, but how it looks, you can understand from the video.
With the next step I tried to glue the paper soaked in water and glue, such as papier-mâché, on top, the result did not satisfy either. Even a cardboard mask slightly led out because of wet paper, but it was already too lazy to redo it, and I didn’t want to throw out so many works on papier-mâché.
Mask, pasted over paper, with a sewn strap
In the picture above, welding glasses are visible next to the mask, I bought them to insert eyepieces into the mask, by the way, cool glasses could be used, even without rework you could use it in some suit, although there is a big minus: welding glasses, therefore glasses they are very dark, nothing is visible in them.
I mercilessly shredded my glasses, rimmed a metal ring, cut the petals with metal scissors around the perimeter, put it in the hole in the mask, and glued it. In order not to scratch my eyes, I still put a cardboard puck on top. The strap from the welding goggles, slightly repackaged so that it could be adjusted, was simply sewn onto the cardboard.
Diagram of how the petals look like under a cardboard washer
This is how the eyepieces from the glasses of the welder on the finished mask look
Googling materials to create a mask made me think that I would use car putty. The general plan is this: put a putty on top of the cardboard form, rubbed it with a spatula, wiped the sandpaper and ready.
Everything turned out almost the same, except for the fact that I took the primary putty with fiberglass. But what they write about it: “it is used for large bodywork, large dents, or through holes. This putty is coarser and needs to be covered with smaller putty. It is also much stronger than conventional putty and more difficult to handle. Some masters even begin processing without waiting for the complete drying of this putty, because then it is very hard to handle. ” And I must say, they do not write in vain, after several unsuccessful attempts to process the dried putty with sandpaper, picked up a file, and things went clearly more fun.
Mask after file processing
The following steps are the simplest: I bought a primer and paint in cans, I closed parts that I did not need to paint with masking tape, primed and painted. Dried on the balcony on hooks, hung on a clothesline or stepladder, spread out from the bottom of the newspaper, opening a window.
After the paint had dried, it turned out that it was very uncomfortable to breathe in the mask, and that it smells pretty paint - drilled holes in the bottom, it became easier to breathe (I used a drill for tile - it would be drilled without any problems).
As I mentioned earlier, the glasses with glasses are very dark, I wanted to replace them, but the glass and mirror cutters refused me. Attempting to drill holes in black cardboard to get some sort of perforated glasses was also unsuccessful, so I simply took out the glass, under the shadow of the hood of the eye is not very visible.
Breathing holes
Mask after painting
When I read about the plague doctors, I learned that they used a cane. Of course, I thought that such a great accessory can not be ignored. After some thinking about the concept, I decided to make a wooden cane with a knob of a plastic ball for the Christmas tree, and put a flashlight from the lighter inside to highlight it. I decided to turn on with the help of a reed switch and a magnet hidden under a glove to create a feeling of controlling the backlight with the magic of hands.
Next, the case of technology: take the handle from the wooden mop, saw off the desired length, take the combined water fitting, trim the outer diameter of its plastic side to the outer diameter of the mop. At the upper end of the mop, we cut off the diameter to fit the internal diameter of the fitting, connect everything, put it on the glue. At home there was a copper plate, cut a strip of the right size from it, and glued it so as to bury the seam transition between the fitting and the mop handle (glued it with two metal clips, pre-wrapped in cardboard, so as not to scratch).
Fitting and mop handle prepared for painting
Ready cane and fitting and mop connection scheme
The lower tip of the cane was also made of fittings: a nut and a fitting adapter from pipe to hose. He drilled a blind hole in the bottom of the mop, put an adapter into it, screwed a nut on top, filled it with glue.
This is how the individual components look.
Assembling the lower end of the cane
When buying a combined fitting for the upper part of the cane, I picked up a coupling with a suitable thread (screwed onto the metal part of the fitting). Cut the clutch with a hacksaw for metal, the resulting nut will need to be inserted into the ball-knob.
I clean the ball of glitter and cut a hole in it with the blade of a knife heated on the stove, I process the hole with an abrasive nozzle to the hole :) I give shape to fit the nut, see fig. below.
View of the ball before the start of the wash and after the first stage of processing
Ball with hole and nut from the coupling
Soil, I paint the ball. Pull out of the lighter flashlight, specially purchased for this business. I solder to the end of the diode and the found plug to the flashlight button, apparently from some cooler (one line remains superfluous, but there are no other plugs) - so that the diode inadvertently does not close with the button itself, isolating the diode.
I found a pair of pins, soldering two parallel reed switches to them. He took two reed switches, for better sensitivity, the original small magnet acted at a very small distance.
Gluing in the first reed switch, the second one is visible from the outside, the flashlight and the saddle plate for him are also visible
Flashlight and a ring with a magnet for closing reed switches
Again the flashlight with a soldered plug
I paste the reed switches into the ball (there was not enough time and, apparently, fantasy for the split mounting system of the reed switches to the ball). Next, I put a nut in the ball.
I ask my sister to draw me a pumpkin on the ball, and I will scratch the paint on the paint with a knife. I make a plate from polycaprolactone (plastic that melts in hot water) - a holder for a flashlight (you could just insert a piece of pencil into the fitting with the same success, but at first my idea was to make plastic attachable petals for reed switches, which I wrote about above, and the water to plastic, I already heated).
Last: I wind the ball on the cane, after having connected the plug with the pins.
Ready knob
This is how the whole cane assembly sequence looks.
There is a sad part in this story: the bar security took my cane at the entrance, returned it only at the exit. But all is well that ends well, the suit and without a cane turned out to be quite good. And to friends I boasted with a cane already on the street.
Cane with a suit
The knob glows in the dark
PS All the materials, I found the paint in the construction market, the benefit from me is 5 minutes away (except for the welder's glasses and plastic balls, I had to look for them separately).
And once again I want to remind you when starting to work, except for materials, take care of PPE (gloves, glasses, a respirator, I also used a rain cover when painting).
This was a finished suit.
The article does not have any new fundamental tricks, rules and manuals, but perhaps it will help someone in modeling according to the principle “from what comes to hand”.
I apologize in advance for the type of narration similar to the picture below, I have not photographed everything, because The phone makes poor pictures, it does not focus, and the camera was not at hand.
')
I do not think that the story about sewing a cape would be appropriate here - I’m leaving this part out. Go to the mask. A short googling led on a roller on YouTube, how to make a cardboard beak. Cut the pattern, glued, it became clear - not that. Photos of masks from cardboard there, but how it looks, you can understand from the video.
With the next step I tried to glue the paper soaked in water and glue, such as papier-mâché, on top, the result did not satisfy either. Even a cardboard mask slightly led out because of wet paper, but it was already too lazy to redo it, and I didn’t want to throw out so many works on papier-mâché.
Mask, pasted over paper, with a sewn strap
In the picture above, welding glasses are visible next to the mask, I bought them to insert eyepieces into the mask, by the way, cool glasses could be used, even without rework you could use it in some suit, although there is a big minus: welding glasses, therefore glasses they are very dark, nothing is visible in them.
I mercilessly shredded my glasses, rimmed a metal ring, cut the petals with metal scissors around the perimeter, put it in the hole in the mask, and glued it. In order not to scratch my eyes, I still put a cardboard puck on top. The strap from the welding goggles, slightly repackaged so that it could be adjusted, was simply sewn onto the cardboard.
Diagram of how the petals look like under a cardboard washer
This is how the eyepieces from the glasses of the welder on the finished mask look
Googling materials to create a mask made me think that I would use car putty. The general plan is this: put a putty on top of the cardboard form, rubbed it with a spatula, wiped the sandpaper and ready.
Everything turned out almost the same, except for the fact that I took the primary putty with fiberglass. But what they write about it: “it is used for large bodywork, large dents, or through holes. This putty is coarser and needs to be covered with smaller putty. It is also much stronger than conventional putty and more difficult to handle. Some masters even begin processing without waiting for the complete drying of this putty, because then it is very hard to handle. ” And I must say, they do not write in vain, after several unsuccessful attempts to process the dried putty with sandpaper, picked up a file, and things went clearly more fun.
Mask after file processing
Small observations
Somewhere there was advice, something like: do not feel sorry for the putty, you can clear out the excess, and if you put a little, you can’t fix it - for the putty, the advice doesn’t work, just apply a normal even coat so that you do not have to do it for hours.
Putty is mixed on a spatula (and not in a can, as it dries quickly), i.e. not very large portions are kneaded. It is better to use one portion not on a simple and flat surface, but on complex curved sections, since by the time you mix the next batch, the previous one is already pretty dry, and joining the different portions on the curved sections is more difficult. Also at the junction is a thickening of the layer, and it is easier to handle on a flat surface.
Mask with highlighted defects at the junction of two portions of putty
One of the portions has already dried up, the second is not I put it properly - there are voids left
When processing dried putty, be sure to use a respirator and goggles, there is a lot of dust.
Putty is mixed on a spatula (and not in a can, as it dries quickly), i.e. not very large portions are kneaded. It is better to use one portion not on a simple and flat surface, but on complex curved sections, since by the time you mix the next batch, the previous one is already pretty dry, and joining the different portions on the curved sections is more difficult. Also at the junction is a thickening of the layer, and it is easier to handle on a flat surface.
Mask with highlighted defects at the junction of two portions of putty
One of the portions has already dried up, the second is not I put it properly - there are voids left
When processing dried putty, be sure to use a respirator and goggles, there is a lot of dust.
The following steps are the simplest: I bought a primer and paint in cans, I closed parts that I did not need to paint with masking tape, primed and painted. Dried on the balcony on hooks, hung on a clothesline or stepladder, spread out from the bottom of the newspaper, opening a window.
Photos of painted eyepieces
In order not to get dirty I use disposable gloves and a raincoat.
Kote with me sooo displeased - everywhere there is a smell of paint at this moment
In order not to get dirty I use disposable gloves and a raincoat.
Kote with me sooo displeased - everywhere there is a smell of paint at this moment
After the paint had dried, it turned out that it was very uncomfortable to breathe in the mask, and that it smells pretty paint - drilled holes in the bottom, it became easier to breathe (I used a drill for tile - it would be drilled without any problems).
As I mentioned earlier, the glasses with glasses are very dark, I wanted to replace them, but the glass and mirror cutters refused me. Attempting to drill holes in black cardboard to get some sort of perforated glasses was also unsuccessful, so I simply took out the glass, under the shadow of the hood of the eye is not very visible.
Breathing holes
Mask after painting
When I read about the plague doctors, I learned that they used a cane. Of course, I thought that such a great accessory can not be ignored. After some thinking about the concept, I decided to make a wooden cane with a knob of a plastic ball for the Christmas tree, and put a flashlight from the lighter inside to highlight it. I decided to turn on with the help of a reed switch and a magnet hidden under a glove to create a feeling of controlling the backlight with the magic of hands.
Next, the case of technology: take the handle from the wooden mop, saw off the desired length, take the combined water fitting, trim the outer diameter of its plastic side to the outer diameter of the mop. At the upper end of the mop, we cut off the diameter to fit the internal diameter of the fitting, connect everything, put it on the glue. At home there was a copper plate, cut a strip of the right size from it, and glued it so as to bury the seam transition between the fitting and the mop handle (glued it with two metal clips, pre-wrapped in cardboard, so as not to scratch).
Fitting and mop handle prepared for painting
Ready cane and fitting and mop connection scheme
The lower tip of the cane was also made of fittings: a nut and a fitting adapter from pipe to hose. He drilled a blind hole in the bottom of the mop, put an adapter into it, screwed a nut on top, filled it with glue.
This is how the individual components look.
Assembling the lower end of the cane
When buying a combined fitting for the upper part of the cane, I picked up a coupling with a suitable thread (screwed onto the metal part of the fitting). Cut the clutch with a hacksaw for metal, the resulting nut will need to be inserted into the ball-knob.
I clean the ball of glitter and cut a hole in it with the blade of a knife heated on the stove, I process the hole with an abrasive nozzle to the hole :) I give shape to fit the nut, see fig. below.
View of the ball before the start of the wash and after the first stage of processing
Ball with hole and nut from the coupling
Soil, I paint the ball. Pull out of the lighter flashlight, specially purchased for this business. I solder to the end of the diode and the found plug to the flashlight button, apparently from some cooler (one line remains superfluous, but there are no other plugs) - so that the diode inadvertently does not close with the button itself, isolating the diode.
I found a pair of pins, soldering two parallel reed switches to them. He took two reed switches, for better sensitivity, the original small magnet acted at a very small distance.
Gluing in the first reed switch, the second one is visible from the outside, the flashlight and the saddle plate for him are also visible
Flashlight and a ring with a magnet for closing reed switches
Again the flashlight with a soldered plug
I paste the reed switches into the ball (there was not enough time and, apparently, fantasy for the split mounting system of the reed switches to the ball). Next, I put a nut in the ball.
I ask my sister to draw me a pumpkin on the ball, and I will scratch the paint on the paint with a knife. I make a plate from polycaprolactone (plastic that melts in hot water) - a holder for a flashlight (you could just insert a piece of pencil into the fitting with the same success, but at first my idea was to make plastic attachable petals for reed switches, which I wrote about above, and the water to plastic, I already heated).
Last: I wind the ball on the cane, after having connected the plug with the pins.
Ready knob
This is how the whole cane assembly sequence looks.
There is a sad part in this story: the bar security took my cane at the entrance, returned it only at the exit. But all is well that ends well, the suit and without a cane turned out to be quite good. And to friends I boasted with a cane already on the street.
Cane with a suit
The knob glows in the dark
PS All the materials, I found the paint in the construction market, the benefit from me is 5 minutes away (except for the welder's glasses and plastic balls, I had to look for them separately).
And once again I want to remind you when starting to work, except for materials, take care of PPE (gloves, glasses, a respirator, I also used a rain cover when painting).
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/366925/
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