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Novel in e-mails: tips for a programmer who moves to Munich

Six months ago, an acquaintance of a friend wrote to me, asking me to answer a few questions about life in Munich - he signed a contract for the position of Senior Software Developer and planned to move from St. Petersburg to Munich. As an old-timer (15 years old), I gave him a few household tips, a combed haircut of which, it seems to me, will naturally continue recent publications . I realize that several emails are not an article, but Q & A, but it is not the first time that I have been answering such questions and they seem typical enough for me to present them in exactly the same manner and manner as they were asked. Last but not least - the consent of the other party to the publication is obtained.



So, in chronological order:



First questions

Greetings.

I, it seems, everything works out with a contract in Munich and by the end of the summer I'm going to get over. I have two children (2 months and 7 years) and I want to ask all sorts of everyday issues.

1. Heard about the difficulties with renting housing and high prices. Already looked a little on sites such as mrlodge. Indeed the choice of minimum and large commissions. Any advice on this topic will listen. What sites still need to go?

Are there any hand-to-hand sites without intermediaries and are there any chances for a Russian to get an apartment through these sites?

It is very important to find out what bad areas there are, good ones. Where not to shoot at all?

Regarding rentals in the suburbs (possibly townhouses) - as far as appropriate? (I work on the central piece of all S-bahnov). How does this relate to schools and kindergartens? Where are they better?

Most likely, I will bring a cat with me - this will completely reduce the chances of finding an apartment?

2. If it is still early and more or less clear with the younger child (2 months), then it is more difficult with the older child. He is now in school, and he has no German, and English, too, can be considered. Are there any Russian-language schools in Munich? Paid? Expensive?


First answers



The specific details and completeness of answers to everyday questions depend, in fact, on two things - on the available income and on the level of knowledge of the German language. Depending on this, it will be possible to choose housing and its location, as well as everything else;) I don’t ask intimate questions, just keep in mind that I’m best guided in a situation similar to my own: a QA engineer-automation engineer who had studied in Germany for 7 years experience, a disabled wife, children 5.5 and 3 years old and two cats.

')

By the way about the money: it should be assumed that 65-70% of the contract amount will be paid on hand, the rest - taxes and compulsory insurance (medical, pension, unemployment, etc.). I assume that the wife will not work right away with a two-month-old child, even if she has the right. In addition, the wife, having received a residence permit, will be eligible for Elterngeld parental benefits (300 euros per month until the child is one year old), and also Kindergeld’s “children's money” (185 per month per child) will be paid to children until they come of age. . I am a little bit blunt about the details, but in general it’s something like this ...



So, in order:

with housing in Munich is not bad, but very bad. That is - for one free apartment there are from a dozen applicants. Moreover, since it is rather difficult to evict a non-payer with German law, applicants are expected to have proven creditworthiness - at least a salary certificate for the past 3 months (the monthly accounting department sends) and a recommendation from a previous landlord (“paid regularly, has no debts”). Sometimes even - a certificate from work that the person really works and is not on probation. Since, as I understand it, nothing of the above will be available, housing will be very difficult and / or very expensive to find. Therefore, I highly recommend just to immediately ask the prospective employer how exactly he can contribute to finding housing. Options can range from “puzzling a lured broker, or even pay his commission” to “provide housing for a couple of months from your own fund.” Ideally, in fact, it is safer and quieter to come yourself, get settled, then transport the family.



Housing for rent and individuals, and large offices. I had to shoot both at those, and at others - at offices it is simpler: less personal problems of the lessor and better service (such as equipment to come to change the leaking crane).



Housing in Germany is rented, as a rule, without furniture. At best, there will be a built-in kitchen, for which sometimes you have to pay the previous tenants (the kitchen is the property of the tenants, not the apartment owner). I got mine 2 times for free - because previous residents would have cost more to disassemble and remove it than to donate to me :). This (or strong discounts in price) happens quite often, given that the furniture is built in place and in another apartment can simply not get up. You can rent a furnished apartment, but it will be much more expensive. Well, the choice is less - the demand is small. Further I write about long-term rent of an empty apartment.



The apartments are usually attached barred office in the basement (Keller) for free, quite often - parking space on the street or in the underground garage - for some 20-50 euros per month.



From a financial point of view, renting is as follows: rent consists of two parts - the rent itself (Kaltmiete, “cold rent”) and the communal flat (cold / hot water, garbage collection, cleaning of the territory, etc. - Nebenkosten, “additional costs"). All together it is called Warmmiete, “warm rent”. Sometimes from the Nebenkosten separately allocated the price of heating, Heizung. Electricity, telephone, Internet are not included in Nebenkosten, each new tenant enters into a separate contract with the respective service provider of their choice.



After conclusion of the lease agreement, the following payments are due to the tenant:

- 3x Kaltmiete - a pledge for an apartment, Kaution, is done in order to protect the landlord from non-payment of rent or damage to an apartment. Kaution is put on a bank account and interest is charged on it, although it is exceptionally funny. It is returned approximately six months or a year after leaving the apartment, when all the hidden costs, including, for example, the exact amount of expenses for the maintenance of the house, are clarified, are paid monthly to Nebenkosten, but the exact amount is determined once a year. The missing (or excess - also happens) is divided into all tenants in the past year. Here is the missing and will be deducted from the returned caution;

- 1x Warmmiete for the first month;

- if the contract was concluded with the mediation of a broker, then another 2.38x Kaltmiete brokerage commissions (Provision). The broker's participation, in fact, can only consist in placing an advertisement on the site and sorting the applicants - i.e. for the tenant there is no benefit to the broker for this money.



This is all to the fact that renting an apartment can cost one-time 3-6 monthly fees and you have to be prepared for this. However, there are models when, instead of a one-time pledge, a small monthly insurance amount is paid, it seems to be non-refundable, but I don’t know the details, did not come across it.



Yes, specific sites that are searched for 90% of all real estate in Germany:

www.immobilienscout24.de , www.immowelt.de



All my three consecutive apartments in Germany were found on the first site, without the participation (and payment) of a broker. Broker ads there, however, are also found. The first apartment is at a private trader, the next one is at large offices with quarters of “tenement houses”. As is obvious, I am Russian with an imperfect German language. I have a friend with a very pessimistic outlook on life in general and on discrimination against foreigners in Germany in particular, but I personally didn’t have to deal with such things. On the other hand, foreigners of varying degrees of foreignness in Munich, hundreds of thousands (population - 1.5 million), and all live somewhere :).



By the way, about: moving from a private trader was due to the fact that he did not agree to cats in the apartment (my wife and cats moved in to me). In both offices I was given to fill out the form "I want to keep cats in the house." A week later, the letter came "here's your permission to keep cats." In the first office it was forbidden to keep dogs, in the second (current) it is possible and dogs too.



There is another option to read local newspapers - there are old-fashioned private traders who advertise there and only there, but it is rather difficult to do it not from Munich. It seems that some newspapers have websites, but I did not use them.



I have not forgotten yet: the rent is fixed at the level at which it was at the time of delivery and it can only be raised with noticeable improvements from the landlord (for example, they changed the balcony at the last apartment, having increased it twice). But with a new rental price you can set what you want. That is, it makes sense to rent an apartment immediately for a long time. For example, I regret that I failed to find a 4-bedroom room 3 years ago - now they have risen significantly in price. For example, the figure: my apartment (3.5 rooms), taken three years ago, still costs 920 euros per month, identical in layout at a nearby entrance surrendered a month ago for 1300 ...



Regarding bad / good areas: as far as I know, from the point of view of, say, a criminal situation or the availability of infrastructure, there is no such division in Munich. There are two large areas of dense high-rise buildings with relatively (!) Cheap apartments - Hasenbergl and Neuperlach. Accordingly, the population of these areas is very multinational (in other words, Turks, Balkans, Russians and Blacks :)). Some call these districts of the ghetto, I do not belong to those. I lived (after a heap of student hostels) for several years in apartments in the west of Munich in the Laim area, which the ghetto is not called, now I live in the Neuperlach for the 4th year and cannot say that it’s even worse to live here. The advantages of these particular areas are that large apartments (3-4-5 rooms) cost as much as not one and a half times cheaper than in other parts of the city - if in these other parts multi-room apartments were built at all. And there are a lot of them. By the way, a small family may simply not pass the small family. Those. the four of us rent a two-room apartment - the chances are very small.



Due to the availability of decent public transport and good roads there is no difference in prices between the city and the suburbs. Electric trains run every 20 minutes, metro - every 5 at peak hours, every 10 - at other times. Even in the presence of buses and trams. Again, the city is relatively small, from end to end that is by car, that by public transport - 40-50 minutes, so in the sense of the accessibility of all the benefits of civilization - everything is close by. My colleague lives in the neighboring town, Augsburg, and every day for many years already travels to Munich to work. 40 minutes by train, but housing there is much cheaper.



If I correctly understand the term "townhouse" - it is 2-3 floors with a basement and attic, along with other such "entrances on one." In German it is called “Reihenhaus, Private House”. I know a little about them. Advantages: plenty of space, no top / bottom neighbors (but there are sides, if the house is angular and there is no neighbor on one side - it costs more), as a rule, there is a small garden in the back yard. Disadvantages: much more expensive than an apartment with the same living space, there are some expenses that are not in the apartments.



They go to school in Germany from 6 years old, to kindergarten from three years, there are nurseries. There are not enough places in kindergartens and nurseries, they need to stand in line, at least in the city. I don’t know about nearby suburbs, friends in a town 40 minutes by car in the direction of the Alps got a place in the kindergarten without problems.



As a rule, children go to primary school (first 4 classes) at the place of residence, changes are allowed, but serious reasons are required and they must be reported to the local school in advance. The beginning of the school year is in the middle of September. I assume that the situation “a school-age child does not speak German” in Munich occurs regularly and school authorities know how to solve it. Alas, here I do not know anything, my two children were born in Germany. I think that the primary information (at least, who to contact next) can be requested again in the HR of the employer.

As far as I understand, there are no general education schools in Russian in Munich. There are “Sunday Russian schools” in which mostly Russian is taught. School education is nevertheless compulsory for all, no homeschooling or private (non certified) institutions.



As I understand it, the sources of general information about relocation and life in Germany have already been sufficiently studied. Just in case, I will list some: foren.germany.ru , www.vorota.de , ru-de.livejournal.com , www.tupa-germania.ru



Clarifying questions

Once the housing is rented without furniture, then apparently there should be options for how and where to find used furniture for cheap. And then calmly develop by buying your own. How is it taken there? Where is it taken?



I will say right away about intimate questions. They take me to the senior software developer for 70+ euro. Is this the right money? I suspect that a little, but nonetheless.

I have more than 20 years of experience, but recently I have not specifically rushed into the heads, realizing that I may have to think about relocation. Although the boss experience already happened too.

There is German, but not school since childhood as English, but college. That is, I understand a lot, I am guided in the world, but far from ideal.



I have a big family planned, me, my wife, 7-year-old son, 2-month-old daughter and a cat. Therefore, I am looking for a 3 or even 4-room apartment. Maybe another mom or mother-in-law will run down.



If the offices that you rented (or the past, where you rented) have any suggestions, it would be great to get them.

Since you live in an area where there are many migrants, what can you say about schools? How is the training? Does the child have a chance at a university after such schools? Or, on the contrary, it is simpler (his German is just beginning) - many students without a language and teachers better understand what to do with non-German children. So - ask around, please, about the options from the current and past landlord.



I considered the house (or Reihenhaus) in the suburbs only from the point of view that it could be cheaper per meter. Well, maybe less ghetto, closer to the rural "German pastoral". This is the case? Maybe some town in the south near the lake and with access to S-bahn. Is it absolutely transcendental for the price?



What can you say about the choice of the bank? Which one is better? Otherwise, we are spoiled by such services as Internet banking, SMS informing, Visa-Visa transfers, easy credit cards, microcredit, etc.

Yes, and cell phones are also interested in what and how. Judging by the fact that there are few acquaintances, apparently the most important thing is the quality of the mobile Internet (4G) and the price.

Is there any difference in choosing a health insurance?



Are there any Munich forum sites? With extensive knowledge and mutual help?


Answers-clarifications

The employer said that he could not contribute to housing. The office is small, even HR walks once a week.
This is quite unfortunate. Finding an apartment remotely will not be easy. I would seriously think about moving in two stages - first to come myself, live a month or two in the guesthouse, find / choose an apartment, then transport the family. Living on suitcases with a small child should not be easy.

Since the housing is rented without furniture, then apparently there should be options for how and where to find bush furniture cheaply. And then calmly develop by buying your own. How is it taken there? Where is it taken?
New, inexpensive, but ready-made furniture is taken in Ikea - two branches in the city. But - you need a car to bring. However, with the second-hand furniture will be the same problem. Other new furniture can easily wait a month and a half to deliver ...

Used furniture is easiest to find at kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/stadt/muenchen . Quite often you can stumble upon offers to give away furniture for free, “just take it away”.

I will say right away about intimate questions. They take me to the senior software developer at 70+ euro. Is this the right money? I suspect that a little, but nonetheless.
As far as can be judged by online salary surveys, as well as by a couple of forums - on average in Germany for this position, this is pretty good. It will be about 4,000 a month, after taxes and compulsory insurance. It is not accepted to report this kind of information about yourself :), so I have no direct experience. On the one hand, thanks to real estate, Munich is considered one of the most expensive cities in Germany, on the other hand, this is the initial salary in the absence of “German” resume experience, that is, it will only grow further. For living in Munich with the whole family without much luxury, this is more than enough - tested by personal experience. For example - my friend with two such salaries in the family recently bought (on credit, of course) a nice Reihenhaus in a quiet area of ​​Munich at a price well for 600 kE.

German is, but not school since childhood, as English, but institute. That is, I understand a lot, I am guided in the world, but far from ideal.
I have been living here for 15 years, I studied, I passed the exams, I defended my thesis, I worked in half a dozen companies - and I still have an imperfect German :) Your children will have it, you won't. But if you can understand, the quality will not interest anyone.

I have a big family planned, me, my wife, 7-year-old son, 2-month-old daughter and a cat. Therefore, I am looking for a 3 or even 4-room apartment. Maybe another mom or mother-in-law will run down.
I would advise immediately 4-bedroom, on my own experience: bedroom, living room, nursery, office. The office turns into a guest room, if necessary, and over time - into the second nursery.

If the offices of whom you shoot (or the past, where you shot) have any suggestions, it would be great to get them.
The previous one has now available even two furnished apartments (rented for at least 3 months).

Furnished, by the way, are rented, as a rule, for a short time, so this can be a good intermediate solution upon arrival at once with the whole family. Here is a search for furnished apartments for 3 people in Munich:

www.immobilienscout24.de/Suche/S-14/WAZ/Bayern/Muenchen/-/-/-/-/true/-/-/-/-/true/-/-/-/-/-/3



So, until I started writing opus on school / bank / mobile, I’ll write down the question: do you have a driver’s license? and my wife? and driving experience? Just a car with two children will be required sooner or later, if you live in a suburb - rather sooner. According to Russian rights, you can drive for 6 months after arriving at a residence, for 3 years after your arrival, you can retake the German rights without having to pass a driving school. The cost of obtaining rights from scratch is plus or minus 2000. So it may make sense to get rights in Russia before departure ...

Since you live in an area where there are many migrants, what can you say about schools? How is the training? Does the child have a chance at a university after such schools? Or, on the contrary, it is simpler (his German is just beginning) - many students without a language and teachers understand better what to do with non-German children.
There are many migrants in Munich everywhere, the source country is different :). Regarding the German schools and the future: the child must graduate from the gymnasium or pass additional exams, equivalent to the end of the gymnasium, for admission to the university. During the first 4 years, everyone studies in the same elementary schools (Grundschule), after which, according to the results of training (estimated, etc.), some children receive referrals to the gymnasium, and some to the secondary school (Hauptschule). Prospects after Hauptshule are vocational schools and are comparable. — (Abitur). .



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First of all, I would choose a bank based on its prevalence - branches and ATMs. Of the most known to me - Stadtsparkasse MĂĽnchen and Postbank. There are several banks with better conditions, but only with Internet and telephone service, without branches. In my opinion, not the best option for newcomers in the country. Changing the bank - a question from the strength of the month.



Yes, an account at least in a bank must be opened immediately after receiving a residence permit (the visa is changed to a residence permit in the Office for Foreigners). Most of the regular payments (rent, electricity, telephone / mobile / Internet) imply a direct debit. Payment of bills, as it seems to be accepted in the States, is used mainly in the case of one-time purchases on the Internet. Or from the doctor here comes another, God forbid ...

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Private insurance assumes a higher level of service for the insured in their patients (such as a private room or supervision by the head physician). Also, smaller queues and waiting times Termin'ov doctors. There are a lot of disadvantages, first of all (by law) a level of income above average is required (53.550,00 € in 2014), as a rule, within several years. Also: insurance is and is paid for each individual family member. Also: the rate depends on the age and state of health. In general, the young-healthy-single-rich-the most expensive way to private insurance. By the way, the return road is almost impossible - to move from private to state is unrealistic.



So in the near future, you seem to have no choice but to go to state insurance.

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About the connection you need to find out with the landlord that they think. If a specialist invited for money connects - he has insurance and he is responsible for leaks or faults. If you do it yourself, you answer it yourself. Some things you simply do not have the right to do, for example, change the wiring. Technically, connect a stove or water tap, of course, no problem ...

And why in Ikea can not pick up yourself? There, everything is usually taken apart according to the boards. Just a person is harder to pick up - the disassembled does not fit into a passenger car, even a station wagon.
Of course, in Ikea, you can pick it up yourself - what they have in stock. And whole kitchens are usually not stored there, the plate “Delivery in 3-4 weeks” hangs on the exhibited samples. Separately standing plates from them, it seems, doesn’t even exist in the assortment.

You can certainly pick up any tables, chairs, lockers, beds ...

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Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/284026/



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