Firewood, electricity and SMS - continued
In December , an article about an automated heating system for a country house with the ability to control and control via SMS, in which Master Kit electronics was used, was published in the Master Keith on Habré blog.
The article caused a heated discussion in the comments, the essence of which is the proposals of more economical systems, and the surprise that for some reason heating elements and brick kilns are used. We tried to answer most of the comments in detail, but now the person who invented and implemented the most automated heating system of a country house using our electronics suggested that he answer the most important questions from his point of view. Since There was a lot of text, we decided to post it not in the comments, but as a separate article.
So, then the author of the project:
I got acquainted with the discussion, and I would like to answer the most frequent and significant questions.
')
What is the main task of the project?
The primary task is to warm the stove at a cheap rate at night, and during the day let the stove give off the accumulated heat. Well, to have control over what happens there by temperature. To make it all in automatic mode. If it is below 8 degrees, I will receive SMS "very cold." In any frost, I will have at least a day left to make a decision.
Why stoves, and not water heating?
When building a house initially did not equip water heating. Enough it in the city. The most comfortable for a person is radiant heat, that comes from the wall of the furnace. Hence, on the new round of technology, heated floors, ceilings and other equipment. Of course, it is possible to warm a barrel with water, but it can only be discussed in the order of trolling.
What is the use of heating elements in brick kilns?
Furnaces in my construction, which allows their operation not on wood, but on electricity. Well, any furnace has a valve, blocking the heat in the pipe. In addition, according to the design of the furnace, the air does not reach this gate. My bottom half of the stove heats up, because the valve of the summer course is closed by default. This is about losses.
TENY special for air without blowing. It is impossible to brick them in because of this they are destroyed. During the first tests, a small area of ​​the heating element fell into ashes. This site has burned out. Although TEN works for now, but its mechanical strength is broken. Their temperature is quite low (they do not even blush in the dark). Brick holds this temperature freely. In a working furnace the temperature is much higher. The life cycle of heaters according to the manufacturer 10,000 hours. The cost of 200 rubles a piece. TEN is easily removed from the furnace - it is not fixed there. But now I rarely heat a small stove, since the main heating comes from a large one and it is necessary to remove them only in this case.
What was the selected temperature range?
I do not know why, when discussing, they were fixated on +20 degrees. My algorithm is designed to keep the temperature not lower than 10 degrees and not higher than 15 ti. This is so that the house does not freeze and so that the plumber does not freeze and break down (and there is water, not antifreeze). In addition, the furnace also does not freeze, so do not experience heat shock at the beginning of the furnace in a frozen house. This will allow them to function longer.
Applying calculations for this particular house using averaged numbers is not very correct. The house is made according to modern standards of warming, besides, according to the results of life in the winter in previous seasons (when it was still being completed) additional measures were taken to reduce heat loss.
One and a half kilowatt is not enough for heating
1.5 kW per house was sufficient for frost outside the window to -15-17 degrees. But at this moment I have 1 kW of heating elements standing in a large furnace, and 0.5 in a small one. The scattering in the large furnace turned out to be significant. Therefore, now I have transferred both heaters to a small furnace. The temperature immediately increased, due to two times smaller mass of the furnace and the fact that this furnace is located near the temperature sensors (well, the plumbing is all there too). In a large furnace installed heater in 1 kW, which I plan to connect on constantka during periods of frost.
Probably huge bills for electricity?
In terms of energy consumption with a two-tariff counter (I have one), it is easy to calculate what happens. That last month left kilovatny for two weeks included. The house was +15, but burned up by 2500 p. Night operation is much lower in cost.
Consumption - for the last month of 250 rubles, this includes arrivals and life on weekends. And you always enter a warm house. The furnaces do not freeze. The lower zone (where the heaters) is warm to the touch.
Under the cold season, when 1.5 kW may not be enough around the clock, additional (uncontrollable) plug-in power of 1 kW is provided. For the experiment I connected it two weeks ago (last weekend there was no opportunity to come). Two weeks without the inclusion of an additional 1.5 kW have a temperature of 15-16 degrees. In addition, additional measures have been taken on the insulation (screens on the windows). Everything will be seen when strong frosts come. But, there is a feeling that during round-the-clock operation of heating elements, the temperature will not drop to 0. In the most frosty nights of November (it was below -15), at the peak the temperature dropped to 9-10 degrees. But this was before the additional weatherization and the availability of additional power.
- Master Keith: As you can see, many questions have cleared up. We assume that there will be more comments whose authors will call into question this or that solution. But here you need to understand that the person made the decision for himself, for his ideas and needs. At the same time, the author will be grateful for the ideas. Is it possible to achieve the same goals more effectively? What would you do in his place?
The article caused a heated discussion in the comments, the essence of which is the proposals of more economical systems, and the surprise that for some reason heating elements and brick kilns are used. We tried to answer most of the comments in detail, but now the person who invented and implemented the most automated heating system of a country house using our electronics suggested that he answer the most important questions from his point of view. Since There was a lot of text, we decided to post it not in the comments, but as a separate article.
So, then the author of the project:
I got acquainted with the discussion, and I would like to answer the most frequent and significant questions.
')
What is the main task of the project?
The primary task is to warm the stove at a cheap rate at night, and during the day let the stove give off the accumulated heat. Well, to have control over what happens there by temperature. To make it all in automatic mode. If it is below 8 degrees, I will receive SMS "very cold." In any frost, I will have at least a day left to make a decision.
Why stoves, and not water heating?
When building a house initially did not equip water heating. Enough it in the city. The most comfortable for a person is radiant heat, that comes from the wall of the furnace. Hence, on the new round of technology, heated floors, ceilings and other equipment. Of course, it is possible to warm a barrel with water, but it can only be discussed in the order of trolling.
What is the use of heating elements in brick kilns?
Furnaces in my construction, which allows their operation not on wood, but on electricity. Well, any furnace has a valve, blocking the heat in the pipe. In addition, according to the design of the furnace, the air does not reach this gate. My bottom half of the stove heats up, because the valve of the summer course is closed by default. This is about losses.
TENY special for air without blowing. It is impossible to brick them in because of this they are destroyed. During the first tests, a small area of ​​the heating element fell into ashes. This site has burned out. Although TEN works for now, but its mechanical strength is broken. Their temperature is quite low (they do not even blush in the dark). Brick holds this temperature freely. In a working furnace the temperature is much higher. The life cycle of heaters according to the manufacturer 10,000 hours. The cost of 200 rubles a piece. TEN is easily removed from the furnace - it is not fixed there. But now I rarely heat a small stove, since the main heating comes from a large one and it is necessary to remove them only in this case.
What was the selected temperature range?
I do not know why, when discussing, they were fixated on +20 degrees. My algorithm is designed to keep the temperature not lower than 10 degrees and not higher than 15 ti. This is so that the house does not freeze and so that the plumber does not freeze and break down (and there is water, not antifreeze). In addition, the furnace also does not freeze, so do not experience heat shock at the beginning of the furnace in a frozen house. This will allow them to function longer.
Applying calculations for this particular house using averaged numbers is not very correct. The house is made according to modern standards of warming, besides, according to the results of life in the winter in previous seasons (when it was still being completed) additional measures were taken to reduce heat loss.
One and a half kilowatt is not enough for heating
1.5 kW per house was sufficient for frost outside the window to -15-17 degrees. But at this moment I have 1 kW of heating elements standing in a large furnace, and 0.5 in a small one. The scattering in the large furnace turned out to be significant. Therefore, now I have transferred both heaters to a small furnace. The temperature immediately increased, due to two times smaller mass of the furnace and the fact that this furnace is located near the temperature sensors (well, the plumbing is all there too). In a large furnace installed heater in 1 kW, which I plan to connect on constantka during periods of frost.
Probably huge bills for electricity?
In terms of energy consumption with a two-tariff counter (I have one), it is easy to calculate what happens. That last month left kilovatny for two weeks included. The house was +15, but burned up by 2500 p. Night operation is much lower in cost.
Consumption - for the last month of 250 rubles, this includes arrivals and life on weekends. And you always enter a warm house. The furnaces do not freeze. The lower zone (where the heaters) is warm to the touch.
Under the cold season, when 1.5 kW may not be enough around the clock, additional (uncontrollable) plug-in power of 1 kW is provided. For the experiment I connected it two weeks ago (last weekend there was no opportunity to come). Two weeks without the inclusion of an additional 1.5 kW have a temperature of 15-16 degrees. In addition, additional measures have been taken on the insulation (screens on the windows). Everything will be seen when strong frosts come. But, there is a feeling that during round-the-clock operation of heating elements, the temperature will not drop to 0. In the most frosty nights of November (it was below -15), at the peak the temperature dropped to 9-10 degrees. But this was before the additional weatherization and the availability of additional power.
- Master Keith: As you can see, many questions have cleared up. We assume that there will be more comments whose authors will call into question this or that solution. But here you need to understand that the person made the decision for himself, for his ideas and needs. At the same time, the author will be grateful for the ideas. Is it possible to achieve the same goals more effectively? What would you do in his place?
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/248425/
All Articles