The best gift is a book. We make a beautiful cover
The idea of creating a book with my own hands settled in my head quite a long time ago. Having studied the practical side of the question, I only became entrenched in this desire, but my hands did not even reach the choice of a book. And some time ago, fate decreed for me. Due to force majeure circumstances, I had a desire to donate a unique thing, but, as we know, there is no better gift book. The choice fell on the favorite piece of the object of my uncontrollable interest, an incredibly wise and capacious, meaning, not words, the work of Exupery - “The Little Prince”. The desire to create and spurred my personal love for this book. The decision was made, the time inexorably approached the time of delivery, and I started to work.
Where to start was the main question. Glory to Google and Habra, I managed to find some pretty detailed instructions for binding books that promise a result with the right approach that could create an inner craving for beauty.
I will leave links to these articles at the end with thanks to the authors. I want to think that I managed to take the best of their methods and bring something of my own.
')
For a start, it was worth choosing a format. For me it was a6, because the book is small, and with a larger format it would turn out to be unpresentable thin, well, and in that size, in my opinion, it looks much nicer. The first step was expected layout. It was necessary to download several versions before it was possible to find a version with appropriate formatting (to correct less) and color pictures, which, however, were later replaced with better ones. The layout itself took several hours, it was necessary to choose a suitable font in size and style, replace and arrange the pictures less chaotically, select suitable indents. When making a more capacious book, it will take much longer.
Next, print. It should immediately be said that at the preparatory stage I decided for myself that I wanted to get the result as accurate as possible, and therefore I did not hesitate to use automated equipment — printers, cutters and a laser engraver.
So, print. The order of pages was set using the wordpage program, because it turned out to be the simplest tool and, in general, satisfying me on all points. The only thing it lacks is calculating the numbering for duplex printing.
Everything is simple, you need to set your own parameters - the number of pages, the number of pages in the notebook, print the pages from the first line, flip the sheets and print the pages from the second line. The main thing is not to confuse with orientation.
The sheets were cut to size A5 on a paper cutter designed specifically for this purpose, so that everything was neat, fast and trouble-free. You can, of course, cut it with a stationery knife, but the result will be worse, and you will have to spend much more time on it. Together with trimming sheets for a book, you should immediately trim a couple of blank sheets of thicker paper, for bookends of similar size.
Now we fold the A5 in half and get the coveted A6, and with it the first idea of how it will look in the end. It is necessary to fold taking into account the page numbers. Since I decided to bind 16 pages of notebooks, I had 4 sheets of A5 in my notebook. Internal should be bent with a strong pressure (you can even hold a fingernail at the bend), external vice versa, with a weak, so you get neat notebooks, smooth and with the same edges (which, in other matters, still need to be cut later).
Binding was decided to sew through. It hurt I liked how the colored threads look on the turn of the notebook, and this option looked a little stronger. To pierce the holes, you need to take a thicker paper (I had 240g / m ^ 2), cut it to the height of the sheets and mark it, taking into account the width of the lace around which you will sew the pages, and also make an indent from the edges of 10 mm (not necessarily just so much, just in my case it looked good).
Next, apply this template to each notebook in turn (for additional fixing, pressed it with stationery clips) and with a sharp awl we make neat holes, exactly opposite the marking lines. This is a very crucial stage, requiring maximum care and accuracy. The more carefully we will be here, the less then we will have to rule.
I sewed the binding with the help of embroidery thread (floss), it looks good, they hold it perfectly, what else do you need ?! Since this is a gift, it was worth considering the preferences of the future owner, the favorite color is green, it remains only to find the threads of the desired shade. The binding is stitched from the first or last notebook, first we thread the thread from the outside to the inside of the book, at the edges where the thread passes from one notebook to another, we fasten with the help of knots.
The resulting construction, aligning the notebooks relative to each other, we clamp in the press and gently coat with glue. I used a special glue for cardboard and paper, UHU creative. It dries quickly, perfectly glues, not water-based, so it does not soak the paper and after gluing it remains somewhat elastic. Leave to dry.
After our book is dry and stuck together, we can get it and evaluate the result.
Next, take the sheets cut out at the beginning of the flyleaves, fold in half and, smearing with glue the edge near the fold (I smeared 5mm), glue on the outside.
We expect drying, we cut off the excess threads and lace from the binding, fasten the edges of the lace and knots with glue, it is perfectly absorbed into the fabric and holds the volume. To enhance the binding, we glue something “marlipodnoe” on it. It was my canvas (again from the field of embroidery). So far, we are not attaching it to the fly-leaf, so that the frozen glue does not prevent us from further.
Due to the fact that the sheets in the notebooks are folded one around the other, as a result, the leading edge turns out to be a bit “toothy”, and as we did not try, it’s still impossible to perfectly sew the pages.
It's time to do a fine trim. Here you need to be careful. Because of the threads and the fold of the paper, the side with the binding is slightly thicker, so you need to squeeze it carefully under the pressure so that the binding does not lead, otherwise the cut will be uneven. The easiest way is to put a piece of cardboard on top of the central part so that the book is pressed across the entire area.
So, the book is now smooth and looks very cool, but it will be better. It's time to hide a not very nice back. For this you need capitals (captal tape, etc.). In general, this tape can be bought. But finding it is not so easy in the retail network, and not so fast via the Internet. Time was already running out, moreover, I wanted to make the captals of the same color as the bookends and binding thread. So it was decided to make them yourself. I just took the ribbon that I used for binding, and sheathed it on the one side with the same green thread, folded in half, then I cut the ribbon in a shape.
This tape seems to be sewn to the binding, through notebooks (in the same holes). But, firstly, I already had them under a layer of glue, secondly, it would have been ugly on the spread of the notebook, well, until the heap I assumed that no one would throw the book, so the capitalists would hold on to the glue, that just stuck them. First, the main part, so that the glue did not protrude from under the thread, but at the same time held the tape directly under it, and after drying it slightly shortened the side “cuffs” and glued them to the main part with a cross to the cross.
Well, the book itself is ready. Now it's up to the cover. The cover should be a little bigger in height than a book. Since the book is small, I made cartons 10 mm in height (5 mm on each side), the width is the same as the book. The template was drawn in Corel and cut on a laser engraver. For the outer part, I took a dark brown textured paper, painted the layout of elements on it and lines for trimming, so as not to die out anything, and printed it all on paper, on the usual A4 format. Then cut along the lines with a stationery knife. On paper, all elements fit + 8.5 mm per bending part.
With such a markup, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cardboard in order to leave a gap for folding.
We put on the cardboard a thin uniform layer of glue, at the same time sufficient to ensure that it is firmly fixed to the paper, and, applying by marking, gently press down. The glue dries quickly, so there should be no mistake. I have one carton when squeezed shifted by half a millimeter, it was not possible to return it to its place. At the same time, the paper was separated only with the top layer of cardboard. It’s good that I cut 2 sets of boxes at once, I had to redo everything. After drying, we wrap the edges, missed with glue; then leave to dry.
A piece of glue on the inside will be hidden by a fly-leaf, so it's not critical, that's what happened:
Try on a book:
Everything worked out neatly and beautifully, and it would seem possible to glue the book in, and then put the image on the cover, but I decided what could be done better! The cover was good, but with the printed image it would have been even better, but it did not look durable enough, or something completed. And I decided that the cover should be leather. I didn’t have any skills in working with leather, this material is capricious, requiring experience and tools that I didn’t have, and therefore I turned to a person who does all kinds of leather work (next time I will do it myself). We discussed all the details, material, production, etc., I gave him a paper cover for leather pasting and stitching. That's what happened.
Outside, I immediately liked everything, but from the inside I was in for a surprise. The edges were horribly crooked. On the long side there was an opportunity to trim them a little to trim, which was done with a sharp stationery knife and a metal ruler.
But on the short sides (bottom and top) there was nothing to cut off, I had to shaman. Smeared a little glue, put a ruler to the edge, and pulled the skin where it was missing, pressed it where it was. In the lower right corner of the cover there was not enough of a large piece, I had to cut, glue and dub out the pieces that I cut off. After drying, it can still be seen, but does not catch the eye.
After all the above events, the cover took a decent look, which satisfied me. Sticking a book.
We coat with a thin uniform layer the surface of the flyleaf with the canvas, we press. Between the fold of the flyleaf we lay a sheet of larger size so that the excess glue, which in any case will be, albeit in small quantities, will not glue the pages. Five minutes is enough, open, remove excess glue, it is still not dry, and is removed almost without a trace. The same on the other side, then put to dry. Take a good look at the glue on the pages.
It's time for decorative work. For drawing on the cover image was chosen, located at the head of the post.
For a good result, you need to make a vector from a bitmap image. A rough part of the work was done by the utility Vector magic, a familiar designer helped to bring the image to mind. That's what happened.
Now the image is suitable for engraving. Cross your fingers, put the book under the laser. One minute of experience - and everything is ready. Now it remains to remove traces of burnt skin, soot it or something like that. It is well absorbed into the small pores of the skin, because removing it is not so easy. I made it a eraser, but not everything went as smoothly as I would like.
In general, the result suited me, but so far the skin was too branded and not protected. In order for the skin to remain prints of greasy fingers and it was generally more protected, you need to apply a topcoat. It is absorbed into the upper layer, gives a light shine (the effect may be different, depending on the composition) and water-repellent properties. And then I was waiting for failure. In the process of erasing traces of engraving, I damaged a thin top layer of skin, which, obviously, had some kind of additional coating. After applying the "finish" the skin in this place darkened. And even though everyone I asked asked told me that everything was alright, my frustration had no limit.
What I just did not try to remove the darkening, nothing helped. The solution was found rather quickly.
This was the final touch. Now everything suited me. The finish covering everything else cemented the small elements of the picture. Now the book looked and felt really worthy and durable. We look what happened.
At the end of a few tips. Consider the layout of the page numbers on the spread, I remembered this only when the pages were printed and pierced for binding. As you can see, on the left side are the page numbers in the wrong place. I did not redo it, I decided that it would only add individuality. Before the book itself you should put a blank sheet, or a sheet with a cover, because the first page opens worse than the rest, because of the 5 mm behind which the bookend is holding. Do everything yourself to the maximum, “if you want to do well, do it yourself”. I will carry out the work with the skin in the next project (by all means) myself, in order to do it carefully initially, even if it takes ten times more time. It is better to engrave the skin with a finished finish, then the soot is washed off with a simple cloth or cotton wool, without any difficulties and sacrifices.
Well, what I would like to say. I spent on this project somewhere 2 weeks, an hour, a half a day. I put my own work and soul into this thing. I really like what happened. This is a unique thing, this is exactly what I wanted to do. I would never have managed to buy something as filled with emotions for anything. This is by far the best gift I've ever made. I think it is clear that it was worth it.
I hope my experience will come in handy.
www.strana-naoborot.com/5raznoe/book/pereplet.htm
habrahabr.ru/post/96684
Where to start was the main question. Glory to Google and Habra, I managed to find some pretty detailed instructions for binding books that promise a result with the right approach that could create an inner craving for beauty.
I will leave links to these articles at the end with thanks to the authors. I want to think that I managed to take the best of their methods and bring something of my own.
')
For a start, it was worth choosing a format. For me it was a6, because the book is small, and with a larger format it would turn out to be unpresentable thin, well, and in that size, in my opinion, it looks much nicer. The first step was expected layout. It was necessary to download several versions before it was possible to find a version with appropriate formatting (to correct less) and color pictures, which, however, were later replaced with better ones. The layout itself took several hours, it was necessary to choose a suitable font in size and style, replace and arrange the pictures less chaotically, select suitable indents. When making a more capacious book, it will take much longer.
Next, print. It should immediately be said that at the preparatory stage I decided for myself that I wanted to get the result as accurate as possible, and therefore I did not hesitate to use automated equipment — printers, cutters and a laser engraver.
So, print. The order of pages was set using the wordpage program, because it turned out to be the simplest tool and, in general, satisfying me on all points. The only thing it lacks is calculating the numbering for duplex printing.
Everything is simple, you need to set your own parameters - the number of pages, the number of pages in the notebook, print the pages from the first line, flip the sheets and print the pages from the second line. The main thing is not to confuse with orientation.
The sheets were cut to size A5 on a paper cutter designed specifically for this purpose, so that everything was neat, fast and trouble-free. You can, of course, cut it with a stationery knife, but the result will be worse, and you will have to spend much more time on it. Together with trimming sheets for a book, you should immediately trim a couple of blank sheets of thicker paper, for bookends of similar size.
Now we fold the A5 in half and get the coveted A6, and with it the first idea of how it will look in the end. It is necessary to fold taking into account the page numbers. Since I decided to bind 16 pages of notebooks, I had 4 sheets of A5 in my notebook. Internal should be bent with a strong pressure (you can even hold a fingernail at the bend), external vice versa, with a weak, so you get neat notebooks, smooth and with the same edges (which, in other matters, still need to be cut later).
Binding was decided to sew through. It hurt I liked how the colored threads look on the turn of the notebook, and this option looked a little stronger. To pierce the holes, you need to take a thicker paper (I had 240g / m ^ 2), cut it to the height of the sheets and mark it, taking into account the width of the lace around which you will sew the pages, and also make an indent from the edges of 10 mm (not necessarily just so much, just in my case it looked good).
Next, apply this template to each notebook in turn (for additional fixing, pressed it with stationery clips) and with a sharp awl we make neat holes, exactly opposite the marking lines. This is a very crucial stage, requiring maximum care and accuracy. The more carefully we will be here, the less then we will have to rule.
I sewed the binding with the help of embroidery thread (floss), it looks good, they hold it perfectly, what else do you need ?! Since this is a gift, it was worth considering the preferences of the future owner, the favorite color is green, it remains only to find the threads of the desired shade. The binding is stitched from the first or last notebook, first we thread the thread from the outside to the inside of the book, at the edges where the thread passes from one notebook to another, we fasten with the help of knots.
The resulting construction, aligning the notebooks relative to each other, we clamp in the press and gently coat with glue. I used a special glue for cardboard and paper, UHU creative. It dries quickly, perfectly glues, not water-based, so it does not soak the paper and after gluing it remains somewhat elastic. Leave to dry.
After our book is dry and stuck together, we can get it and evaluate the result.
Next, take the sheets cut out at the beginning of the flyleaves, fold in half and, smearing with glue the edge near the fold (I smeared 5mm), glue on the outside.
We expect drying, we cut off the excess threads and lace from the binding, fasten the edges of the lace and knots with glue, it is perfectly absorbed into the fabric and holds the volume. To enhance the binding, we glue something “marlipodnoe” on it. It was my canvas (again from the field of embroidery). So far, we are not attaching it to the fly-leaf, so that the frozen glue does not prevent us from further.
Due to the fact that the sheets in the notebooks are folded one around the other, as a result, the leading edge turns out to be a bit “toothy”, and as we did not try, it’s still impossible to perfectly sew the pages.
It's time to do a fine trim. Here you need to be careful. Because of the threads and the fold of the paper, the side with the binding is slightly thicker, so you need to squeeze it carefully under the pressure so that the binding does not lead, otherwise the cut will be uneven. The easiest way is to put a piece of cardboard on top of the central part so that the book is pressed across the entire area.
So, the book is now smooth and looks very cool, but it will be better. It's time to hide a not very nice back. For this you need capitals (captal tape, etc.). In general, this tape can be bought. But finding it is not so easy in the retail network, and not so fast via the Internet. Time was already running out, moreover, I wanted to make the captals of the same color as the bookends and binding thread. So it was decided to make them yourself. I just took the ribbon that I used for binding, and sheathed it on the one side with the same green thread, folded in half, then I cut the ribbon in a shape.
This tape seems to be sewn to the binding, through notebooks (in the same holes). But, firstly, I already had them under a layer of glue, secondly, it would have been ugly on the spread of the notebook, well, until the heap I assumed that no one would throw the book, so the capitalists would hold on to the glue, that just stuck them. First, the main part, so that the glue did not protrude from under the thread, but at the same time held the tape directly under it, and after drying it slightly shortened the side “cuffs” and glued them to the main part with a cross to the cross.
Well, the book itself is ready. Now it's up to the cover. The cover should be a little bigger in height than a book. Since the book is small, I made cartons 10 mm in height (5 mm on each side), the width is the same as the book. The template was drawn in Corel and cut on a laser engraver. For the outer part, I took a dark brown textured paper, painted the layout of elements on it and lines for trimming, so as not to die out anything, and printed it all on paper, on the usual A4 format. Then cut along the lines with a stationery knife. On paper, all elements fit + 8.5 mm per bending part.
With such a markup, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cardboard in order to leave a gap for folding.
We put on the cardboard a thin uniform layer of glue, at the same time sufficient to ensure that it is firmly fixed to the paper, and, applying by marking, gently press down. The glue dries quickly, so there should be no mistake. I have one carton when squeezed shifted by half a millimeter, it was not possible to return it to its place. At the same time, the paper was separated only with the top layer of cardboard. It’s good that I cut 2 sets of boxes at once, I had to redo everything. After drying, we wrap the edges, missed with glue; then leave to dry.
A piece of glue on the inside will be hidden by a fly-leaf, so it's not critical, that's what happened:
Try on a book:
Everything worked out neatly and beautifully, and it would seem possible to glue the book in, and then put the image on the cover, but I decided what could be done better! The cover was good, but with the printed image it would have been even better, but it did not look durable enough, or something completed. And I decided that the cover should be leather. I didn’t have any skills in working with leather, this material is capricious, requiring experience and tools that I didn’t have, and therefore I turned to a person who does all kinds of leather work (next time I will do it myself). We discussed all the details, material, production, etc., I gave him a paper cover for leather pasting and stitching. That's what happened.
Outside, I immediately liked everything, but from the inside I was in for a surprise. The edges were horribly crooked. On the long side there was an opportunity to trim them a little to trim, which was done with a sharp stationery knife and a metal ruler.
But on the short sides (bottom and top) there was nothing to cut off, I had to shaman. Smeared a little glue, put a ruler to the edge, and pulled the skin where it was missing, pressed it where it was. In the lower right corner of the cover there was not enough of a large piece, I had to cut, glue and dub out the pieces that I cut off. After drying, it can still be seen, but does not catch the eye.
After all the above events, the cover took a decent look, which satisfied me. Sticking a book.
We coat with a thin uniform layer the surface of the flyleaf with the canvas, we press. Between the fold of the flyleaf we lay a sheet of larger size so that the excess glue, which in any case will be, albeit in small quantities, will not glue the pages. Five minutes is enough, open, remove excess glue, it is still not dry, and is removed almost without a trace. The same on the other side, then put to dry. Take a good look at the glue on the pages.
It's time for decorative work. For drawing on the cover image was chosen, located at the head of the post.
For a good result, you need to make a vector from a bitmap image. A rough part of the work was done by the utility Vector magic, a familiar designer helped to bring the image to mind. That's what happened.
Now the image is suitable for engraving. Cross your fingers, put the book under the laser. One minute of experience - and everything is ready. Now it remains to remove traces of burnt skin, soot it or something like that. It is well absorbed into the small pores of the skin, because removing it is not so easy. I made it a eraser, but not everything went as smoothly as I would like.
In general, the result suited me, but so far the skin was too branded and not protected. In order for the skin to remain prints of greasy fingers and it was generally more protected, you need to apply a topcoat. It is absorbed into the upper layer, gives a light shine (the effect may be different, depending on the composition) and water-repellent properties. And then I was waiting for failure. In the process of erasing traces of engraving, I damaged a thin top layer of skin, which, obviously, had some kind of additional coating. After applying the "finish" the skin in this place darkened. And even though everyone I asked asked told me that everything was alright, my frustration had no limit.
What I just did not try to remove the darkening, nothing helped. The solution was found rather quickly.
This was the final touch. Now everything suited me. The finish covering everything else cemented the small elements of the picture. Now the book looked and felt really worthy and durable. We look what happened.
At the end of a few tips. Consider the layout of the page numbers on the spread, I remembered this only when the pages were printed and pierced for binding. As you can see, on the left side are the page numbers in the wrong place. I did not redo it, I decided that it would only add individuality. Before the book itself you should put a blank sheet, or a sheet with a cover, because the first page opens worse than the rest, because of the 5 mm behind which the bookend is holding. Do everything yourself to the maximum, “if you want to do well, do it yourself”. I will carry out the work with the skin in the next project (by all means) myself, in order to do it carefully initially, even if it takes ten times more time. It is better to engrave the skin with a finished finish, then the soot is washed off with a simple cloth or cotton wool, without any difficulties and sacrifices.
Well, what I would like to say. I spent on this project somewhere 2 weeks, an hour, a half a day. I put my own work and soul into this thing. I really like what happened. This is a unique thing, this is exactly what I wanted to do. I would never have managed to buy something as filled with emotions for anything. This is by far the best gift I've ever made. I think it is clear that it was worth it.
I hope my experience will come in handy.
Used materials
www.strana-naoborot.com/5raznoe/book/pereplet.htm
habrahabr.ru/post/96684
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/239377/
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