
Greetings
There are a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's machines on the control panel to huge models of airplanes reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about the part of the RC world called auto-modeling, which classes of models come in, which categories they divide into, where to start, and so on.
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Details under the cut. Caution, a lot of traffic.
Types of models
Monsters (Monster Truck)
The most popular class of technology for entertainment.
It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, respectively, is very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for jumping, slides and just for fun in the country.

Buggy
Typically, all-wheel drive. Able to overcome any type of surface, with the most optimal would be riding on tightly rolled ground.
It is this class that is most widely represented at competitions.

Short Course
It is a pickup truck with a short base and rear wheel drive.
It has a great similarity (copy) with these cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled ground.


Traggi (truggy)
Something in between a buggy and a monster.
It is characterized by the presence of large, widely spaced wheels and a small ground clearance. Accordingly, this class can perfectly overcome a variety of obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while the handling is worse than the buggy, but better than the monster.
Excellent compromise option.

Crawler (Crawler)
It is characterized by a huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, low speed.
Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.


Drift (Drift)
Exclusively highway cars.
Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.


Rally (rally)
Along with a crawler is a rather rare class of car.
As a rule, all-wheel drive cars. Differs copy. Designed for rolled soil.

Trophy (trophy)
Differs in high copyty, a full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft tenacious tires.
Designed to slowly overcome a variety of obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamp.
Popular models sell a huge amount of tuning in the form of canisters, wheels, bodies, etc. to create an exact copy of real trophy cars.



Scale models
Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1: 5 or 1: 4 reaching 1 meter in length.
Models of scale from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are able to develop a speed of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scale is 1:10 and 1: 8. It is in these classes that the main part of the competition and the largest variety of models are held.
Models of 1:10 and 1: 8 scale can reach 50 cm in length and are not designed for pokatushek in yards and crowded places, since they can reach a very high speed (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and in a compartment with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest models of 1: 5 scale possess, overwhelmingly, an internal combustion engine with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and in fact repeat the construction of real cars.
Engines
At the moment, car models have four types of engines:
- Electric collector motor . Electric motors of absolutely standard design with coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and generally not interesting. It is applied on inexpensive models of small and micro scale. For models of 1:18 scale, allows you to reach speeds of 25 km / h.
- Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC) . Appeared in RC relatively recently, noticeably pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it gives out similar power and, unlike ICE, is much easier to operate.
- Glow carburetor engine . Used in models from 1:12 to 1: 8 scale. Refuel with a content of from 16% to 30% nitromethane. Very moody engine, in need of fine-tuning the carburetor. It is not recommended for beginners or those who do not like poking around with equipment. The engine is small (several cubic centimeters), but it allows you to shoot a few horsepower and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
- Gasoline engines of internal combustion. Used in 1: 5 scale models. Refuel with gasoline AI 92-95. Engines are much less capricious than low-capacity glow motors.
Prices
Prices for cars, in contrast to aircraft models, have their own clear framework. So the prices for Chinese models 1:18 with collector motors start at 3000 rubles (~ 80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~ 130usd). The price range for hobby models (non-sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1: 8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 rubles (300-700 usd). The most expensive, this model scale 1: 5, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).
Bundling (supply options)
There are two types of delivery models:
- RTR - ready to run. This configuration means that the model is assembled and fully ready for races. But it must be borne in mind that batteries, charger and so on may not be included. Usually they are included in the package only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to buy more candles, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
- Kit. This configuration means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, charging and so on, you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with the receiver) wheels, engine speed regulator, and so on. Whales are designed for athletes and are not intended for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in maximum tuning and it is assumed that the athlete already has the entire additional body kit.
Hardware (appa)
One of the most important parts in the RC hobby is the equipment: remote control, receiver, telemetry. On the market there are a large number of options from very simple and budget versions of 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:

Up to the heaped 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and the price of 600 usd:

The design of the car on the example of my engine tragedy
General picture from the official site:

All-wheel drive model. Three differentials. Engine 4.6 cm3, 2.9 hp Two cardan diverging from the center of the differential front and rear. Two disc brakes are attached to the center differential. The engine is of the heating type, which means that to start the engine, the candle must be heated with a special glow, and then the candle helix keeps the temperature itself.
Lower deck:

The bottom deck is an aluminum plate 4.5 mm thick with holes for starting the motor using the starting table.
Front suspension design:

The design of the front suspension is in fact not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, since a fall from a height of 2 meters to the ground with a dozen coups, as a rule, the car passes without any breakdowns.
What model to buy?
The question is complex and, as in the case of computers, one must first determine the budget and objectives. So for example, if you want to just drive on a model, jump from springboards and just get a fan, then your choice is a monster - for example HPI Savage. You are interested in large machines of the 5th scale, then you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners devoted to the election of technology - links at the bottom of the article.
Brands (manufacturers)
Currently, there are a large number of manufacturers on the market. They can be divided into three categories:
- Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in the price, at the same time reliability and reasonableness of a design can suffer. You can buy as the first model in order to understand whether or not to like it, to acquire experience in repair and maintenance.
- RTR models from the United States, Great Britain and Japan: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "at the hospital" have greater reliability and reasonable design than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from the middle group, each model should be considered separately, since each brand has both qualitative, successful and non-qualitative models.
- Whales from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising models for athletes in full tuning. A whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version and do not forget that you need to purchase an app, engine, wheels, speed control, etc., for it. With an average cost of RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), the prepared version for competitions on the basis of a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).
Competition
For fans of RC hobby competitions are held at the regional level as well as all-Russian. Competitions usually have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:
- Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
- Buggy 1: 8 4wd electro
- 1:10 buggy 4wd nitro
- Buggy 1: 8 4wd nitro
- Hobbies unlim 1: 8
It is necessary to stipulate that the classes described are a certain convention and may vary from city to city, depending on the popularity of certain models.
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, to prepare a new model from scratch for competitions on the basis of a whale can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. Second-hand can be found for 25-35 thousand.
Nitro or Electro
Before the advent of BC systems in the world of automade, the ICE ruled, since collector motors have significantly less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors with comparable power to ICE have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, there is no need to tune in, run in, do not start, maintenance is an order of magnitude easier and so on. In this case, there is a drawback in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swell the batteries in sub-zero temperatures.
From myself I can see that when I chose a serious model, the choice was on the ICE variant, which I later regretted many times, since the maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the furious roar of the engine coupled with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent more than one passerby.
How to start?
In order to understand whether or not to like it, decide on the model and in general, I advise you to come and see the competitions, pokatushki. People are usually sympathetic and sociable, they will help and advise, because they themselves once started. It is also worth asking with a question on the RC hobby forums.
In St. Petersburg, you can come and chat on the race track called “Under the Bridge”:
http://maps.yandex.ru/-/CVvMuDY7 . At the weekend there is always someone riding, but keep in mind that the track is common and free, so you need to behave culturally and not crap.
useful links
Ask questions.
Thank you all for your attention.