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Personal Finance 2: Money Never Sleeps - how to protect yourself financially?

After the introductory first part, we turn finally to the promised specifics. It turned out so much that at first I thought of dividing it into two parts, but the people would again begin to ask for blood to say that little was written on the matter - and I decided not to divide. For those who are still not enough - the original goal was to convey the idea that such exists, that it is not difficult, etc. Therefore, I try to give information in a detailed format. And for those who are many and difficult - do not worry, it's all introduced gradually, so you are not particularly tense. It is here that I dumped everything in one pile and immediately. Go.

Overview of the following text:
1. How to accumulate painlessly?
2. Where to put the accumulated?
3. Benefits and pitfalls of various tools.
4. How to accumulate more?
5. How to integrate it all into the system (some digits)?

I will not specifically consider here the issues of accounting and cost optimization (there have already been several articles on Habré) - we will talk about the case when you earn more than you spend. If this is not the case, there is no point in further reading until you learn to control your expenses - otherwise you will not be elementary than managed. After all, you should understand that a person earning $ 10,000 and spending $ 9,999 in this context loses to a person who earns $ 1,000 and spends $ 900.
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How to accumulate painlessly. Golden Rule


I wrote about how important time is - the earlier you start, the better the result will be. So here I want to add this rule to the third point - discipline. Moreover, the priority of these items is again not in favor of the money itself (read "sums of money"): TIME, DISCIPLINE, MONEY. It is in this sequence, and nothing else.

By “discipline” in this matter, I mean the regularity of certain actions. And here I would like to tell you about the main, “golden” rule: always and under any circumstances you must set aside 10% of the profit * you receive. Someone can invest in this notion of "tithe", etc. - I look at this matter exclusively from a practical point of view - you need to start somewhere. 10% is a universal rule, I did not invent it. Just a tenth of your money is such an amount, the loss of which you hardly feel (by “loss” I mean using this amount for savings, not for spending), but which can work “miracles”, I will not be afraid of this word.
* In this case, I attribute the salary entirely to profit (although the financiers will say that this is income, but we are not talking about that now). But if you, for example, do trade in something over the Internet, then if you save 10% of your income (price of goods sold) and not profits (the difference between price and cost), then you will eat up the working part - and this not good for business.

Imagine that a person earns $ 1,000 and regular monthly expenses he has $ 800. To begin, let us rejoice for it - it is actually not easy. Money is always where to spend. So, what should this person do on “payday”? That's right - he should immediately postpone 10%. Not the next day, not a week later, not at the end of the month “if it remains” - right away. If this is not done immediately, then the salary may not survive until the end of the month and there will be nothing to postpone. And the first time, until discipline appears, I recommend putting 10% off somewhere on the account, and not in an envelope - so it will be harder for YOU to get to them. On the tools "where" - just below in the text.

What will happen next?


You survived these troubled times began to postpone 10% - they will become the basis of your capital. This process should become a habit, take root in you. Do not ask yourself the question "Why?" - just do it. And I'm not just talking about salary, but about any income. For example, you donated money to the DR - pick up and save 10%. And spend the rest on health! I read in various books that the culture of savings in Europe and in the West implies the postponement of a larger amount - from 20 to 50 percent of their income. Probably, these books were written before 2008 ... For me personally, this is still difficult, but 10% is not a problem at all. In the end, I will tell you more about a couple of painless ways to save more than 10%.

Farther. You begin to form some kind of capital. Remember that our current goal is the Defense Plan. This is a number that should be your incentive, goal. While it is not collected - there can be no serious investment anywhere.

It may be hard to believe, but you will reach your goal MUCH faster than you expect. I do not know how to explain it, but it works.

The plan is not for nothing called the Protection Plan - it implies that the tools you will use must be low-risk and easily accessible. If something happened - go and take it. Today. Not tomorrow and not in a week. This is the essence. Therefore, I will ask you not to think about interest, inflation, etc. - at this stage they are not important to us - you need to collect the amount, and then decompose it into different baskets for the only purpose - if necessary - to quickly get access to them. This is difficult to perceive, especially in the key of inflation and high income percentages, which are promised by advertising slogans from everywhere, but you just need to hold back the horses to recall the goals of Plan No. 1.

Instruments


Proceeding from the above, for our capital we need such tools that will be:
1. Diversified (do not keep all eggs in one basket)
2. Reliable (we do not need high interest on this capital, it is important for us to keep it)
3. Easily accessible (in the case of W *, you will never have time to do paperwork and entreating - you will need money NOW)

I outlined several tools that allow you to maximize the three characteristics written above:
1. Bank deposits (do not rush to shout "bullshit" to draw conclusions, they are also different - more below)
2. Gold scrap (just scrap, not bank metals or coins)
3. Under the mattress (funny, but it is practically the most reliable place, albeit with its own nuances)

We will now go over all three points, and then we will talk about how to divide what we managed to accumulate in different baskets and how many there should be. I think "how much" you will be very surprised)))

Bank deposits


Probably the most common and easily accessible tool, so let's start with it. There is just a lot of nuances that would be nice to know. Everything that I will talk about is relevant for Ukraine, but the legislation of the countries of the former USSR is very similar in these moments, so it will not be difficult.

Banks (financial institutions), like their smaller colleagues (glass jars, in which your mothers and grandmothers roll up conservation), are very fragile. We have heard more than once that a bank went bankrupt and went bankrupt. Many people remember the year 2008 (and some even the year 1998 and, possibly, the year 1991), when even the biggest banks in the market were not so childish. And many simply did not live to 2013th. In 2008 I was withdrawing money from my current (!) Account and Platinum card of one of the banks during the week using such ingenious schemes that they deserve a separate story. And it was a bank from the TOP-3 at that time. People who did not have time to do this then waited for their money for a very long time. But, nevertheless, these are more exceptions to the rule, and banks still remain one of the most affordable tools for your savings. In order to minimize risks (it’s impossible to eliminate them, because no one expected this to happen with the same Cyprus, let alone our banks) to repeat unpleasant stories of previous years, I developed a certain strategy for choosing these institutions, and I’m going to share with you.



In order for the bank to be a suitable tool for the preservation of our capital, we look at the following criteria:
1. The bank must be state or
2. The bank must be in the TOP 3 of the largest private banks, or
3. The bank should be the largest international bank.
4. The bank must always be near you (near your home or office)
5. The bank should not be exorbitant rates on deposits.
6. IDEAL, if you take a deposit, you can not necessarily in the branch where you open it

State Bank - the most reliable bank. If he has problems, the state will save him to the last. There are exceptions to this rule, too, but we don’t say that you will keep all your capital in one bank.

A private bank from TOP-3 is a very large bank. A large cabinet falls louder, but it is more stable. If one of the TOP-3 banks in your country “falls” - it will be bad for everyone, because now everything is very connected, therefore, although you need to keep abreast, but the chances that such a bank will be bad will be very small.

Why should a bank branch be near you? Well, firstly, it is so calmer for you, and secondly - it is always on your eyes. You can go there to replenish the mobile account, pay utility bills, etc. And, if something is wrong, you will immediately notice it by the dissatisfied cries of visitors. For example, you enter a bank to pay utility bills and you see that some pensioner “with difficulty” is given money from an early terminated deposit. This is an alarm. You need to take the money immediately and not think that something will work out tomorrow. And thirdly, if you decide to stop working with one bank in favor of another, or with one branch in favor of another, then you will not be so far away and scared to carry your money if the bank is close to home or work. But this does not have to be exactly the branch where you brought your money - just any branch of the same bank - the situation is the same for everyone.

Why shouldn't there be exorbitant rates? Remember: our goal is not to earn, our goal is to save. High stakes signal two options. The first is that the bank has found some very cool way to make money (to take money from you for this profitable percentage, but to make even more money on it) and it simply does not have enough working capital. The second - in the bank w * pa, he must give money (to investors, creditors, etc.), but he does not have enough - he wants to take money from you in order to refinance for a while. Both options do not suit us. If a bank wants to make money, it's not a fact that it will come out of it. If the bank does not have enough money, then it may not be enough for him even when the time comes to give our deposit. In both cases, money at a high percentage is usually taken for a short time (1-3 months). If a bank constantly keeps high interest rates, then it means it’s very bad (we don’t need it), or it’s a small bank that wants to attract customers in this way (then we don’t need it, because it doesn’t meet our criteria). One bank in Ukraine fell under this item, and I had money there. Well, when I opened an account there, there were no transcendental rates. A couple of years later, they appeared along with information in the media that the bank was “bad.” He was openly poured into the media. I took the money and transferred it to another place. Another friend of mine took the money a whole week afterwards. Bank resisted. For now.

Why is point 6 important? In most cases (if banks fall under the first 5 points), you can open and close a deposit only in one branch. If you open a deposit near the house, and you want to close it in the office near the work, you will be asked, to put it mildly. But there are banks where it is possible to be served in any branch (at least within one administrative unit - the city, region). Why is it important? It happens, albeit very rarely, you urgently need money. And there is no such amount in the cash offices of a particular branch (especially if the deposit is in a currency). At best, you will be told "you need to order the amount the next day." Therefore, if you can take a deposit in any branch - you go to the next and take it there. Or the next ... If not, then when opening a deposit, try to do it in a large compartment - there is usually always a normal amount of the balance at the box office.

How not to leave money in the bank forever?


1. Deposit Guarantee Fund.
2. Keep your finger on the pulse.
3. Do not be greedy.
4. Know the people in the bank.

Deposit Guarantee Fund (FRF). This is such an organization, where each bank makes contributions, and then, if the bank has problems, then this fund is calculated with the depositors. I have never had (and I am very happy) to communicate with the guarantee fund, in principle, during all this time only one bank, which I wrote above, was in trouble, everything was resolved there before the big problems of the bank. But I know that this thing works, I just don’t need to rely on it for 100% (as you have already noticed, I recommend not trusting anyone and anyone) - because this fund is not enough for everyone in the case of a global financial problem. If we take Ukraine as an example, then we have Privat Bank here. If something suddenly happens to him, then there are many times more contributions in him than the entire deposit guarantee fund taken together. This, again, is unlikely, but you should not forget about it. In Ukraine, the FV will pay a maximum of 200,000 hryvnas (about $ 25,000) per depositor of the bank. Therefore, if you have quite a lot of money, then it is better to deposit them in different banks so that there are deposits (all deposits with all interest) in one bank not more than this amount.

Keep your finger on the pulse. Here again, we do not forget that anything can happen, so even if you put money in the most reliable bank, it is not a fact that it will be reliable forever. The fact that it is not bad to periodically go to the bank to pay for the same utilities or something else I already wrote above. As well as a tip, you can use such a cool thing as Google Alerts - this feature allows you to drive the requests you are interested in, for example, Sberbank, as well as the period of receiving news (I put “once a week”) - and once a week you comes a summary of new articles (news mostly) that Google indexes. It is enough just to read the headlines of this bulletin - so you always stay up to date on the events you have selected. It would not be superfluous to mention that such requests should be made for all banks and institutions that are of interest to you. It is clear that the news is a bit late, and you will be the loser in front of those who, for example, have friends in the bank who can merge information quickly. But you will win in front of those who put a deposit and forgot about it and about the bank for a year.

Do not be greedy. If the bank has problems, it is better to score on the interest that you lose, terminating the contract ahead of time and take your money, than worry about some 10% and lose 100% at the same time. Well, not to lose, you will sooner or later take them away either from the bank itself or in the FGV, but this time, and time, as we remember, is more important than money.

Know the people in the bank. It's all clear. If you have friends, they can merge information to you faster than it gets into the media and through Google Alerts to you. Then you calmly go and take the money, while the rest peacefully suspect nothing. If there are no friends, then you are like everyone else. I have problems with this moment, because even though I am a financier by education, few of my friends work in those banks that interest me.

So, we have chosen a bank (s). Now let's talk about deposits.


There are a lot of them (I’m not talking about the deposit currency, more about the deposit format), but we are only interested in those that fit our criteria of easy accessibility. I would single out three formats:
1. Current account with increased interest
2. Interval deposit
3. Regular deposit with the possibility of one-time access

Current account with a higher percentage. This is a normal current account, but it has a higher percentage. For example, in one bank there is such a deposit - you deposit money on the account, for an unlimited time - at least for a couple of hours or a couple of years. At the rate of 5% in dollars, money is capitalized (interest is added to the deposit amount and interest is also charged on them for the next period), but at the same time, if you want to withdraw this money, then you will be charged 1% for cash withdrawal. In fact, the account rate of 4% (5-1). But access is fast - at any time came to any office with a passport and took the money.

Interval deposit. This is a long-term deposit, at which you can withdraw money at the end of each period (month or, more often, quarter) without losing interest. Here the stakes are higher than in the first case, but access to money is already more difficult. Since you will not need all the money at once in “Hour Hr”, you can use these deposits in such a way that each month you end up with one of the deposits and you could take the money.

Normal deposit with one-time access. This is a very rare format, but if you find one like this, take it as happiness. There are usually the same rates as in the usual term deposit for half a year or a year, but you have the right to withdraw all the money once at any time (usually not earlier than one month after the start of the deposit) without losing any interest. You understand that this is very cool.

So far, all deposits.

PS I remembered a moment later. We have now started the practice “Deposit Online”, when you open a deposit through Internet banking. Remember, the paper with the seal and signature of the branch manager is your best friend. Even if you open a similar deposit, be sure to ask for a paper contract with a seal and signature, with the same conditions. Even if this is a regular deposit - make copies of contracts and store them somewhere separate from the originals, as well as make scanned copies that you keep on your computer. We are all here in one way or another connected with IT - do we not know how it happens there, in these computer systems ...

Gold scrap


Since we are working on the complete safety of our capital, in addition to dividing money for different deposits, different banks and in different currencies (which I will write below), we must not forget about the hypothetical moment when paper money can turn into candy wrappers. If someone does not believe that this is possible - read about the experience of the same Argentina, they had it only about 10-12 years ago, if I'm not mistaken. Therefore, we need to keep a portion of our savings in something that, in form, weakly resembles bank notes. One of these tools is gold. One can argue for a long time about the fact that gold can be another “bubble” that will burst sooner or later, but since our world is not stable and this can be said about every savings tool, we will miss this moment. No one knows for sure, but for now gold has been a measure of wealth and a tool for storing capital for several millennia. And here it is important to understand the difference between bank gold and gold scrap in the context of interest to us.

Bank gold - test gold 999 (read the purest gold), laminated ingot or coin, with engraving (on the laminate and on the ingot itself), certificate, etc. This I briefly described the "correct" banking gold, and not the bullshit that You can slip, if you decide to buy gold without sorting out the question seriously. Bank gold is sold approximately in such ingots: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 grams, less often 1 ounce (31 grams), and then we are not interested in - too much money. So, the smaller the number of grams per ingot, the greater the price per gram. For example (the price is not accurate, just an example), to buy 1 gram of gold, you need to give 50 dollars to buy 100 grams of gold, you need to give 4000 dollars. In the first case, the price for 1 gram is $ 50, in the second case - $ 40. Well, intermediate bars with intermediate prices have a place to be. Prices for example, proportions, too.

Gold scrap - gold of different samples, in different formats (ingots, coins, jewelry), which will be very difficult for you to evaluate (if there is an engraving and certificate on the ingot, then there is no such on the scrap) without the help of a professional - appraiser.

So, in our context, we are interested in precisely scrap gold, no matter how strange it may sound. I will explain why. You buy bank gold in a bank and at the same time you must also sell it to the bank. Moreover, the bank is not obliged (!) To buy it from you. And even more so, the bank in which you did not buy it, but decided to just come sell, is not obliged. This is a market. If the bank needs this gold at this moment, he will buy it. If not - do not buy. And so, if he does not buy and you carry this gold to the pawnshop (for example) - no one will look at all these certificates and engravings there - the pawnshop will regard this gold exactly as LOM. And scrap, of course, is cheaper than bank metal. It is like jewelry. I bought a ring in the store, you can not even take the tag off - I went to the pawnshop, and they already give you less money for it. We do not say that bank gold is bad or you will refuse to buy it, etc. - we are talking about the fact that it is hemorrhoids. And we do not need hemorrhoids in the context of the protection plan - we need easy accessibility. It will be very difficult to sell a 100-gram gold bar to a pawnshop, and buying 100 bars of 1 gram is not profitable.

Therefore, buying scrap gold initially (for example, gold rings) - you can be sure that at any time you will come to the pawnshop and get money for them. Or not in a pawnshop, but simply change your neighbor for a piece of meat or ammunition, as they say in all kinds of books about the End of the World))) I exaggerate, of course, but there is some truth in all of this. Buying gold in a pawnshop (if you sell it at all there, but there are other places) you just lose money as soon as you leave the pawnshop (because there is a difference between buying and selling, as well as with currency). Therefore, it is more a tool to protect against the depreciation of paper money and the percentage of this tool in our portfolio will be small (you will see this in the final part).

Money at home under the mattress.


From the point of view of reliability, that money is always with you - this is the most reliable tool. You just take the sum from the “nychki” (you did make the nycki in your dwelling, didn't you?) And you spend it. But there are some downsides:
1. Money can steal.
2. The dwelling can burn down, the dwelling can flood.
3. You can forget where you hid the money (I know such people, do not laugh).
4. Here the money does not work at all. In bank deposits, the percentage is also not large, but here it is not at all.

This tool also occupies a small part of our portfolio. But without it in any way, because it is the most easily accessible part of your money.

I want to remind you - this is my knowledge, my experience, and, most importantly, my MONEY, for which I personally am responsible. Just take those useful things that will help YOU. If nothing fits, find one that fits. Information is complete, but do not do rash actions.

How to accumulate more?


There are several ways for those who can afford to postpone more than 10% or, conversely, the income / expenditure ratio tends to 1 and it is difficult to postpone, but you need to start with something:

Level 0. Trifle I hope that most of the readers will ignore this tool, because if it interests you, it means your business is completely bad and you need to do something to free up capital for savings — increase income, cut expenses or both are simultaneously. If everything is really bad - start collecting small change (small iron money). No matter how ridiculous and odd, but for the year comes a certain amount, which is not a trifle. Plus it disciplines, you can start with this. The main rule - always try to ensure that the little things in your pockets were more! How? When the cashier tells you 5 rubles and 73 kopecks - do not give 5.73 rubles, give 10 - get change in change instead of giving up your change.By the end of the day there will be more trivia, and she will be transferred to the piggy bank with the proud inscription “My first million”.

Level 1. Small moneyThis is for more advanced, hope for most. Set yourself a goal (depending on your abilities): from January 1, 2014 to December 31, 2014, I will save all small money PLUS all banknotes in denominations below such banknotes from my pockets. For example, for Ukraine, you can start with notes of 1, 2, 5 hryvnia. The next year, include the next bill - 10 hryvnia. A year later - 20 hryvnia. And the same rule as for small things - when you are told 10 hryvnias, you do not give a bill of 10 hryvnias, but give a bill of greater dignity in order to get more bills of lesser dignity on the change and at the end of the day put them in your piggy bank. Believe it or not, in the first year about 500-1000 dollars accumulate in small bills.

Level 2. 10% of the costAt some stage we add the third method to the first two levels - 10% of the costs. This is not the 10% that you are postponing from income. This is an additional 10%. Again, for example, a person earns $ 1,000. Immediately he set aside $ 100, spends 900, but at the same time, after each waste, he puts aside 10%, so that in the end he spends $ 810, and puts off $ 90. Of the $ 1,000 he had already spent only 810, and 190 had gone into savings. This tool is easiest to organize if you pay everywhere with a bank card, into which you can connect such a function, which automatically takes 10% of expenses and puts them on a deposit or just a separate account.

Level 3. Any ideas? Write in the comments if you have any ideas what else you could add here.

We organize everything in the system


Huh But how much we already know, almost everything we can already do, but how to organize everything correctly? I do not want to impose any system, because everyone must decide for himself and be responsible for it. Roughly speaking, I can allocate 10% of my capital for scrap gold, and someone whose acquaintance the owner of a pawnshop decides to allocate 20% - after all, he has the opportunity to profitably buy and sell profitably. Well, etc.

I remind you that we are talking about capital, which we are going to ensure the implementation of Plan No. 1 - a protection plan. And we use for this maximum diversification, as well as extremely safe (as it seems to us) tools.

We start from the original numbers. We have a plan to collect 10,000 dollars. For example, we collected the first $ 1,000 (set aside 10% of the salary, set aside small bills, etc.), keep it at home and think what to do now. First you need to decide how to maximize the diversification of their savings. I propose the following scheme: 10% scrap gold, 10% cash at home on hand, 80% bank accounts and deposits. Everything is clear with scrap and cash (I wrote in detail above), so let's talk more about how to diversify the remaining 80%.

In my understanding, there should be three levels of diversification:
1. We divide by currency.
2. We divide by types of deposits.
3. We divide by institutions.

Currency separationIt's all the hardest. Today there is a dollar on a horse, a euro tomorrow, the yuan the day after tomorrow, and so on. It’s quite difficult to say something here, except for two things - the currency of our country in most cases loses foreign. And the second: exotic currencies - this may be good, but we need to keep under control those currencies that we can spend at any moment. You can stock up with the yuan, but then walk and change it somehow not comme il faut. And it is not clear that there are these Chinese. Another thing the United States and the European Union. Yes, they are constantly sausage (this is the time now), but these are large administrative units with democratic regimes and the likelihood of major cataclysms IMHO is much less than in other countries. I chose to diversify for myself between the dollar, the euro and the Russian ruble. Why ruble? Because Russia is the first country where I went,in the case of some big f * py in Ukraine. And it would be nice to have some money immediately in this currency. Plus, interest rates on banks for deposits in Russian rubles are quite large, although this is understandable - the Russian ruble is not a very stable currency, like the hryvnia, in the long run, of course. Therefore, we allocate a ruble some savings, but small. Say, 10% of the total (!) Of our capital. The rest, sadly (after all, I would like more “baskets”) goes to the dollar and the euro. At this point everyone is free to choose. Who believes that a white fluffy animal will come once in the USA and the dollar will collapse - most of it is in euros. Who believes that Merkel will get tired of sponsoring Greece and others like her, and the EU will start to burst at the seams - more in dollars. My IMHO is - if the first or second scenario happens (or China collapses,for example) - f * pa will be for everyone and you will have no time for understanding whether you made the right choice or not when dividing a currency. With an increase in your capital, you can adjust your portfolio, reducing or increasing the interest of various instruments, currencies, etc. As we speak, for example, everything else comes with experience.

It's all a little easier. When we have already divided our capital into currencies, half of it must be deposited on income accounts or deposits with the easiest access (I wrote about them above). We do not pursue interest, we just don’t want to keep money at home and we want to discourage our blood money at least a little from bank interest. If something happens - we will go and take this money TODAY. And for tomorrow and the day after tomorrow we will be able to pick up the rest, breaking deposit agreements, etc. The second half can be halved again - the first quarter should be invested in tools with medium access complexity (the same interval deposits, for example), but also with a higher percentage. And the second quarter can be put on term deposits (half a year or a year) - this is to ensure that interest at least beats off inflation.On average, the portfolio will have an average return and average access to capital.

Division by institutionWhen we have already figured out for ourselves how we want to put everything in order, it’s time to look for partners. These are banks that meet our criteria (see above), as well as those who have suitable types of deposits. Since we have a division by currency, as well as a division according to the types of deposits - there are enough options, sooner or later there will be banking products in the banks you need with the conditions you need. No need to hurry - the percentages do not play a role. It is better to wait and open it on the conditions that you have identified yourself than to violate your plan. It is clear, on the other hand, that it is also not worth adhering to it very strictly. You need to be flexible, plus or minus a couple of percent in one currency or in another currency will not play a big role. But to completely deform the original plan simply becausehere the percentage is higher on the euro, I will invest better in euros than I had planned so much, it’s not worth it.

Summarize. Our 1000 dollars will turn (for example!):
100 - under the pillow;
100 - gold rings;
In Euros:
100 - on a semi-annual deposit at Bank No. 1 at 6% per annum
100 - on the current income account at Bank No. 2 with 3% per annum
In dollars:
300 - on the current income account at Bank No. 3 with 5% per annum
100 - per Interval deposit in Bank No. 4 with 7% per annum
100 - on term annual deposit in Bank No. 5 with 9% per annum
In rubles:
100 - on a semi-annual deposit with Bank No. 6 at 8% per annum.

You have read to the end and ask yourself the question "Why do I need it?"


Maybe, really, not necessary. You can live for today and not think about the future. For someone, this is the right approach to life. Everyone has his own way, his own plans, etc. I just want to convey a thought - all of the above may save you at some point in life, or it may never be useful. But if there is no such thing, then it cannot save you. So much text only seems complicated - if you don’t try to embed ALL AND IMMEDIATELY, then everything is elementary, there’s no hurry, especially if you are young. Time will work for you, but you need to take the first step NOW.

PS Tried to state as accessible as possible, if you have questions - feel free to ask in the comments.

Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/199536/


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