Samsung NX: the transformation of the system camera into an ecosystem. Part 1
Good afternoon, Habr!
Tell me, do you use a camera? Almost certainly - yes: if not a separate device, then the camera of the smartphone is accurate. Today, photography does not require the user to know even the basic concepts, such as “shutter speed”, “aperture”, “focal length” - all tasks are solved more or less successfully by the automatic program, and hundreds of millions of people use the services of scientific and technological progress without even thinking about that hides under the hood of their devices.
On the one hand, it is good: you want to live easier, but to shoot - without thinking about the exposure or white balance. The world lives more and more dynamically, and interesting shots can slip away in just a few seconds. On the other hand, on the Internet soon the free space will end due to the variety of terrible photos taken with crooked hands with the absence of all taste and skill of users. :) But the discussion in this post is not about them, but about two mirrorless cameras from Samsung - the NX300 and NX2000, as well as the Samsung NX system itself, which includes accessories, lenses, and cameras. Well, from the screw?
')
Yes, I almost forgot! The post was so huge that it had to be broken into three parts (maybe the fourth part will be bonus), so today I will tell you about the general theory, the design of cameras, the process of working with the camera, the hardware and present several frames to your court . In the following posts I will tell about the optics, its features and capabilities, and about the SMART functionality for a snack.
During testing with the weather, of course, I was not lucky at all, so I will honestly snatch some of the frames from similar reviews from other resources, and give some explanations if they are needed. Well, now ... let's go!
The boom for “mirrorless mirrors” began about five years ago. Some of the manufacturers strongly thought about it and suggested: “Let's leave the APS-C matrix, throw it away, and let everything be removed via Live View”. Something like this appeared a new class of devices - mirrorless digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. On the one hand, there is a processor and a matrix from a DSLR inside, on the other hand, there is neither a mirror nor an optical viewfinder, the working segment is shorter - in general, a whole set of compromises that were put before the developers a very specific range of engineering tasks. What to do with autofocus? What mount to use for lenses? How to modify the software so that it is convenient to use the camera with a reduced number of controls? How and where to place the controls?
The second class that I would like to mention before moving on to the direct description of the NX series is, in fact, a smart camera. Cameras that can not only “create” content, but also process it (within certain limits), and immediately share it (with other devices via Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, Internet services like Flickr or YouTube, and also upload it to social network). In some ways, these are “smartphones” among ordinary cameras. The smartest smart cameras are on Android (about GALAXY NX will later be a separate material), but the “less smart” are some of the soapboxes and mirrorless ones like the NX2000, and even monsters like Canon EOS 6D with its built-in Wi-Fi Fi, GPS and special software for uploading photos immediately to a smartphone or tablet). I will tell about SMART functionality later.
Let's start with the younger model: I only visited her for a couple of days, and, of course, the “photo flag” of the NX300 is, of course, of interest, so let's take a brief look at the two thousand, its main features, and move on.
The main characteristics of the camera are as follows:
As you can see, everything is at the level of modern DSLRs of approximately the same segment, but without a mirror, in a compact package and with touch controls.
Unfortunately, not everything is so simple and beautiful: autofocus is contrast, i.e. different power slowness. By the way, the same problem with the camera NEX7 from Sony. In fact, not everything is so bad, but after the hybrid phase-contrast systems in the NX300 and some other models of this form factor, there may be a slight annoyance due to the thoughtfulness of the camera.
However, if you don’t use two cameras at once, then after a day or two there’s almost no sloupaca feeling - yet modern mobile processors have become much faster, and software developers don’t eat their bread for nothing: the system focuses, does it quite well, and reportage shooting leave those who were adapted for her from birth. :) In addition, contrast autofocus does not require an expensive improvement of the matrix and the installation of phase sensors in it, which significantly affects the price of the final device.
The camera looks very simple in appearance: several control buttons, a huge touch screen, a bayonet - everything. No tricky switches, no flip or swivel display: minimalism, accuracy, simplicity.
By the way, there is no built-in flash either, but there is an external one included. It is fastened via Smart Shoe - an external port for smart accessories. The module itself looks very neat, takes up minimal space in a “separate” position, and generally shows good results for its modest size.
Controls are represented by the following elements:
Another button is located on the lens itself, called iFN, and its functionality is configured in the menu. All other controls are placed on a large and bright touchscreen.
Most of all I was embarrassed by this “grip” site. In theory, the thumb should go here. In practice, I constantly tried to “press” a non-existent button, and after all, a couple of customizable buttons could be hung in place of this “trick” that would make the camera easier to control.
The camera software can be roughly divided into three large “partitions”. The first one is shooting in “general” modes, various automatic program machines and functions when shooting in the “let the camera thinks for me” style. The second one is shooting in the fully manual mode “like a mirror camera”. That is, you choose the shutter speed and / or aperture yourself, adjust the ISO and generally get complete control over the camera. The third is the “post-filming” section: processing of finished images, sharing via wireless connections and other “smart chips”. It combines all three sections of the common part, which can be called the camera OS. I have suspicions that inside is a deeply customized trimmed / doped Linux.
The main control element is a “ring” on the top of the camera, which rotates without restriction in any direction and is not marked; when it is rotated, the display shows the current (and, respectively, the next and previous modes) shooting. In this regard, the camera is completely "casual." The available shooting modes are SmartAuto (the so-called “green mode”, in which the camera selects all parameters at its discretion), SmartScene (a full-featured automatic machine, in the sub-menu of which you can select a shooting script on the touch screen, and the camera will select the appropriate parameters and displays tips for shooting, if it deems it necessary), Wi-Fi connection mode, video recording mode (which is separately duplicated on the “red button”, and “expert” mode, in which, just Exposure ”,“ Aperture Priority ”and“ n Completely manual "sub-shooting modes. We'll talk about them a bit later, since they practically do not differ from the NX300, with which I, in the main, have been talking all this time.
Firstly, the completely “green” mode gives out decent shots in 90% of cases. Automatic white balance, shutter speed and aperture depending on the scene and focal length (+ the distance that the optics focused on), in combination with not the fastest, but accurate contrast autofocus, do their job. In addition, a relatively large matrix (APS-C, Crop Factor 1.6), and a smart processor that processes the signal from it, make it possible even with a contrast autofocus not to feel “disabled” in terms of automatic focusing. In addition, contrast autofocus (as opposed to phase autofocus) does not matter the aperture and the level of illumination - there would be contrasting elements in the frame, but it can focus. The speed limit mainly rests on the speed of movement of the objective lens and image analysis. The first is solved by installing the STM autofocus motors, the second is a very fast processor responsible for shooting and controlling the autofocus system, so that on average the autofocus speed is at the level of the entry level DSLRs.
Secondly, the scene modes (SmartScene) allow you to also get good shots in the remaining 10% of cases: the camera stops playing the “guessing game” and obediently clamps the “hole” for landscape shooting, opens it for portraits, successfully selects shutter speed for shooting dynamic objects and generally behaves adequately and predictably.
It’s quite possible to give such a camera to not the most technically savvy parents on vacation, providing a brief instruction “where to reap”, and they will bring back enough successful shots to score another album of vivid impressions of Egypt or Turkey, even if they use only the automatic shooting mode .
The post-processing and sharing functions are largely the same as those in the NX300, except that it is a bit more pleasant to work on the NX2000's larger display. Firstly, it is worth noting that the term “post-processing” is somewhat incorrect: many of the effects, settings and filters can be applied BEFORE shooting, adjusting the color reproduction, contrast, brightness, saturation and many other parameters through the menu. Secondly, photo editing options are different for JPEG and RAW files. The second, in addition to filters, color settings and other things you can fully “drag” in several ways, as in Photoshop or lightroom. I would not say that this is a basic functionality, but on any trip, without a laptop or tablet, by hooking up to Wi-Fi in a cafe, you can “process” well and put the photo on the Internet directly from the camera. We'll talk about all this a little more when we consider the NX300.
Well, what are your impressions? My imho is this: the NX2000 is an extremely simple version of the more “adult” mirrorless NX300: it is most oriented towards the use of “plugged in and photographed”, and the expert shooting mode was inherited from the older camera, according to the principle “the presence of the feature is better than its absence ”, and if there is a camera with similar entrails, why not transfer the functionality, in fact. But, with all this “casualness”, the NX2000 does exactly the same good and clear shots, works surprisingly confidently in the “green mode” and has SMART functionality and wireless interfaces.
Yes, hardware control is maximally simplified for the sake of a large touchscreen display and an automatic shooting mode, but if the need arises, the camera can instantly turn into an “adult” by providing a full set of settings available on primary and reflex cameras (for the Canon line-up there will be 1000 and 500-600-700 series). In addition, the “two thousandth” uses microSD cards:
Well, we got to the "big brother". Part of the differences, I’ve already got you into a mess, some haven’t yet had time, so let's sort things out in order.
If the NX2000 is a child of plastic and a classic representative of the “middle segment”, then the NX300 shines with noble materials and retro design: metal, skin “under the skin”, “adult” set of controls, neat and reliable pivoting screen mechanism.
On the top side - as many as five camera controls.
In terms of the above points, I have no complaints: the first, second and fourth elements are implemented almost perfectly. Hiding behind the number 3 adjustment wheel, in my opinion, rotates too easily - he would have a little more noticeable / tangible “click” on the division and not such a “deep” fit into the camera body - and it would be just gorgeous.
But point number 5 is still a misunderstanding, but we will return to it a little later.
On the back panel, in addition to the touchscreen (which can be tilted 90 degrees up and 45 degrees down from its original position), there is a five-way multi-function button that provides navigation through the menus and settings, as well as quick access to some functions, the transition buttons to the gallery, a button for deleting a photo, an FN button, a button to go to the main menu of the camera and a button that selects the mode of the number 3 wheel from the last paragraph - adjusting the shutter speed or aperture. Most of the available buttons can be reassigned / assigned to other functions through the main menu, thus obtaining access to almost any function with one click.
In principle, according to the icons / signatures on the five-position button, it is clear that each of the “directions” is doing, so I will not comment on anything.
Yes, I almost forgot. There is still an inconspicuous button for instant transition to the video recording mode, but it is located in the “dead zone”, which, in principle, is good - you cannot accidentally press it. From the interface connectors have USB and HDMI, both with the prefix micro.
What can you say about the existing camera controls? There is nothing superfluous, everything you need is at hand, all the buttons are pressed with a clear return, all the switches allow you to work with the camera "blindly."
Am I ready to call usability perfect? No, not ready. Retro design made its own adjustments, and I would like to slightly move some elements, smooth some faces, and make the “handle” more anatomic. But if you do not pay attention to these little things, the camera just fits perfectly in your hand, and, of course, after some getting used to it, you can use it just as easily as any crop mirror in “manual” mode. The ISO rolls onto the tuning button, the white balance works fine in automatic mode, the aperture and shutter speed are available both on the “3-wheel” button and on the lens via iFN ... what else is needed for happiness? :)
The main mode of interest in the NX300 - manual - is implemented quite comfortably. If the software is implemented on 8 out of 10 points, and there is nothing special to discuss in it, then this is exactly the manual mode that allows you to get the most out of the camera and get pictures as close as possible to what you want to see as a result - what you can and should consider in detail.
Firstly, the basic settings of the manual mode - ISO, shutter speed and aperture are 1-2 presses and, importantly, they are duplicated in two places.
In the “classic” mode with the upper wheel, we select the shutter speed, with the “aperture” button held down, we also adjust the aperture, after setting the ISO to one of the camera buttons, we can also correct the photosensitivity (moreover, within very large limits). In addition, by setting the camera menu that displays by pressing the iFN button, all the same (and some other) characteristics can be adjusted by pressing the iFN on the lens and rotating the focus ring (it does not have a direct connection with the lens system, and this similar multi-functionality). In addition, nothing prevents you from spreading the shutter speed and aperture control to two different “wheels”, although it will not save you from having to press iFN to adjust the aperture.
Secondly, the autofocus system (and manual focusing) is represented here by an extremely tricky (and, in my opinion, very convenient) hybrid system: phase sensors built into the photosensitive matrix itself + accurate contrast autofocus, coupled with a fast DRIMe IV processor, allow you to quickly and accurately even focus on a flying bird, a playing dog, or running children. The mechanism of manual adjustment of the focus is also interesting. After the autofocus “triggering” is displayed, when you start rotating the focus ring, the camera will zoom in on the fragment you are focusing on (magnification x5, if the memory does not change), and emphasizes those in the zone of contrasting focus of the image. It is difficult to describe in words, to convey to the video - also: you just need to touch it live. Due to the lack of a direct connection between the focus ring and the optics (you only set the command for the STM or USM motor in the glass on the shift of the optical system), it is possible with surgical precision to “reach” the desired object. The absence of “friction” in the system, lightness and a reduced “gear ratio” (honestly, I don’t know how else to put it in words) allows you to adjust the focus as accurately as possible, and the help system by highlighting contrasting borders + zoom on the selected area only simplifies this process and allows perfectly focused shots even for people with poor eyesight.
Thirdly, I want to mention the system of electronic level on the screen. Since the camera doesn’t have an optical viewfinder, and the whole frame is set up in LiveView mode, the overlay electronic horizon with the grid comes in handy: the horizon with such an assistant can be filled either intentionally or on a ship in a storm. The system is very sensitive and perfectly shows the “correct” position of the horizon.
SRW is Samsung's proprietary RAW file format. Perfectly opens with Photoshop or Lightroom after the corresponding update of Adobe Camera RAW.
The files themselves in most cases stretch almost 2.5-3 feet of exposure without much loss of quality. When the camera software is updated to version 1.3, their average size fluctuates around 23 megabytes, and the camera's buffer stops drowning after 3-4 frames and starts recording images to the memory card much faster, but the total “plug” after the buffer has been exhausted (and the inability to continue shooting, until the frames from the buffer will not be recorded on the memory card), unfortunately, has not gone anywhere. I do not think that this problem will be fixed programmatically in the next firmware version - rather, we will have to wait for the NX400, in which there will be a hardware increase in the frame buffer, and something will be done with recording frames on the memory card. So far, she is not happy with the speed ...
I think it's time to show you the frames that were made on the NX300. All of them are taken from the 500PX.com social network, you can find them through a search.
My own frames will be in a post with lenses. ;)
If we consider the fact that the NX2000 is a simpler (and, accordingly, cheaper) camera than the NX300, is it worth taking it, or is it better to pay extra and take the flagship?
The average price on Yandex.Market for the NX2000 is about 17 kilorubles per whale kit.
Three hundred will rise in 23 thousand rubles. The difference - about 6 thousand rubles - almost a third of the price of the younger model. For 6 thousand rubles, you will receive: a smaller, rejectable display (and resolution), a more “adult” set of hardware buttons, which allows you to quickly and more conveniently set up the camera in “adult” mode and phase autofocus. Well, more serious appearance.
Quality of personnel, SMART-functionality, supported lenses and accessories - everything will remain the same. Is it worth paying a few thousand rubles for these improvements? Maybe. Is it worth paying a third of the price of the camera? Not sure. If the difference was only 3-4 thousand rubles, then there would be no doubt: the NX2000 could be bought with a clear awareness “I do not need all these features of the NX300” or if there is no need for certain functions. The camera would be taken for the fact that it “look what - pink!” Or simply falls under the budget. But the difference of 6 thousand rubles makes you seriously think: why do you take a mirrorless camera with interchangeable optics, and do you need to overpay for features that you will not use? If the answer is “I take it instead of a DSLR so as not to carry a kilogram carcass, and I know how the aperture differs from the shutter speed,” then you should most likely be inclined to purchase an older model. If you take a mirrorless as a second camera, as a “home” camera for all occasions, just like a camera, without a sight for interchangeable optics, then the NX2000 is your choice.
On this, for now, everything. In the next issue we will talk about the available lenses, their features and accessories for NX-series cameras.
Tell me, do you use a camera? Almost certainly - yes: if not a separate device, then the camera of the smartphone is accurate. Today, photography does not require the user to know even the basic concepts, such as “shutter speed”, “aperture”, “focal length” - all tasks are solved more or less successfully by the automatic program, and hundreds of millions of people use the services of scientific and technological progress without even thinking about that hides under the hood of their devices.
On the one hand, it is good: you want to live easier, but to shoot - without thinking about the exposure or white balance. The world lives more and more dynamically, and interesting shots can slip away in just a few seconds. On the other hand, on the Internet soon the free space will end due to the variety of terrible photos taken with crooked hands with the absence of all taste and skill of users. :) But the discussion in this post is not about them, but about two mirrorless cameras from Samsung - the NX300 and NX2000, as well as the Samsung NX system itself, which includes accessories, lenses, and cameras. Well, from the screw?
')
Yes, I almost forgot! The post was so huge that it had to be broken into three parts (maybe the fourth part will be bonus), so today I will tell you about the general theory, the design of cameras, the process of working with the camera, the hardware and present several frames to your court . In the following posts I will tell about the optics, its features and capabilities, and about the SMART functionality for a snack.
During testing with the weather, of course, I was not lucky at all, so I will honestly snatch some of the frames from similar reviews from other resources, and give some explanations if they are needed. Well, now ... let's go!
Mirrorless
The boom for “mirrorless mirrors” began about five years ago. Some of the manufacturers strongly thought about it and suggested: “Let's leave the APS-C matrix, throw it away, and let everything be removed via Live View”. Something like this appeared a new class of devices - mirrorless digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. On the one hand, there is a processor and a matrix from a DSLR inside, on the other hand, there is neither a mirror nor an optical viewfinder, the working segment is shorter - in general, a whole set of compromises that were put before the developers a very specific range of engineering tasks. What to do with autofocus? What mount to use for lenses? How to modify the software so that it is convenient to use the camera with a reduced number of controls? How and where to place the controls?
Smart cameras
The second class that I would like to mention before moving on to the direct description of the NX series is, in fact, a smart camera. Cameras that can not only “create” content, but also process it (within certain limits), and immediately share it (with other devices via Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, Internet services like Flickr or YouTube, and also upload it to social network). In some ways, these are “smartphones” among ordinary cameras. The smartest smart cameras are on Android (about GALAXY NX will later be a separate material), but the “less smart” are some of the soapboxes and mirrorless ones like the NX2000, and even monsters like Canon EOS 6D with its built-in Wi-Fi Fi, GPS and special software for uploading photos immediately to a smartphone or tablet). I will tell about SMART functionality later.
NX2000
Let's start with the younger model: I only visited her for a couple of days, and, of course, the “photo flag” of the NX300 is, of course, of interest, so let's take a brief look at the two thousand, its main features, and move on.
The main characteristics of the camera are as follows:
| Matrix type | CMOS |
| Resolution | 5472x3648 pixels, 20.3 MPx |
| ISO supported | 100 -: - 3200, advanced - 6400, 12800 25600 |
| Bayonet | Samsung NX |
| Exposure | 30 - 1/4000 seconds |
| Type of memory cards | MicroSD, MicroSDHC, MicroSDXC |
| Image Formats | JPEG, RAW (.srw) |
| Video formats | MP4, 1080p, 720p, up to 30 frames per second |
Unfortunately, not everything is so simple and beautiful: autofocus is contrast, i.e. different power slowness. By the way, the same problem with the camera NEX7 from Sony. In fact, not everything is so bad, but after the hybrid phase-contrast systems in the NX300 and some other models of this form factor, there may be a slight annoyance due to the thoughtfulness of the camera.
However, if you don’t use two cameras at once, then after a day or two there’s almost no sloupaca feeling - yet modern mobile processors have become much faster, and software developers don’t eat their bread for nothing: the system focuses, does it quite well, and reportage shooting leave those who were adapted for her from birth. :) In addition, contrast autofocus does not require an expensive improvement of the matrix and the installation of phase sensors in it, which significantly affects the price of the final device.
Appearance, body, usability
The camera looks very simple in appearance: several control buttons, a huge touch screen, a bayonet - everything. No tricky switches, no flip or swivel display: minimalism, accuracy, simplicity.
By the way, there is no built-in flash either, but there is an external one included. It is fastened via Smart Shoe - an external port for smart accessories. The module itself looks very neat, takes up minimal space in a “separate” position, and generally shows good results for its modest size.
Controls are represented by the following elements:
- Movable on / off lever, combined with the shutter / autofocus button;
- The mode selection wheel (electronic, as it has no labels or restrictions on scrolling to one side);
- Recessed Direct Link button, which includes a pre-selected in the settings mode of interaction with wireless networks;
- The buttons on the “rear” panel: video recording, “home” and “gallery”.
Another button is located on the lens itself, called iFN, and its functionality is configured in the menu. All other controls are placed on a large and bright touchscreen.
Most of all I was embarrassed by this “grip” site. In theory, the thumb should go here. In practice, I constantly tried to “press” a non-existent button, and after all, a couple of customizable buttons could be hung in place of this “trick” that would make the camera easier to control.
BY
The camera software can be roughly divided into three large “partitions”. The first one is shooting in “general” modes, various automatic program machines and functions when shooting in the “let the camera thinks for me” style. The second one is shooting in the fully manual mode “like a mirror camera”. That is, you choose the shutter speed and / or aperture yourself, adjust the ISO and generally get complete control over the camera. The third is the “post-filming” section: processing of finished images, sharing via wireless connections and other “smart chips”. It combines all three sections of the common part, which can be called the camera OS. I have suspicions that inside is a deeply customized trimmed / doped Linux.
Automatic program
The main control element is a “ring” on the top of the camera, which rotates without restriction in any direction and is not marked; when it is rotated, the display shows the current (and, respectively, the next and previous modes) shooting. In this regard, the camera is completely "casual." The available shooting modes are SmartAuto (the so-called “green mode”, in which the camera selects all parameters at its discretion), SmartScene (a full-featured automatic machine, in the sub-menu of which you can select a shooting script on the touch screen, and the camera will select the appropriate parameters and displays tips for shooting, if it deems it necessary), Wi-Fi connection mode, video recording mode (which is separately duplicated on the “red button”, and “expert” mode, in which, just Exposure ”,“ Aperture Priority ”and“ n Completely manual "sub-shooting modes. We'll talk about them a bit later, since they practically do not differ from the NX300, with which I, in the main, have been talking all this time.
Firstly, the completely “green” mode gives out decent shots in 90% of cases. Automatic white balance, shutter speed and aperture depending on the scene and focal length (+ the distance that the optics focused on), in combination with not the fastest, but accurate contrast autofocus, do their job. In addition, a relatively large matrix (APS-C, Crop Factor 1.6), and a smart processor that processes the signal from it, make it possible even with a contrast autofocus not to feel “disabled” in terms of automatic focusing. In addition, contrast autofocus (as opposed to phase autofocus) does not matter the aperture and the level of illumination - there would be contrasting elements in the frame, but it can focus. The speed limit mainly rests on the speed of movement of the objective lens and image analysis. The first is solved by installing the STM autofocus motors, the second is a very fast processor responsible for shooting and controlling the autofocus system, so that on average the autofocus speed is at the level of the entry level DSLRs.
Secondly, the scene modes (SmartScene) allow you to also get good shots in the remaining 10% of cases: the camera stops playing the “guessing game” and obediently clamps the “hole” for landscape shooting, opens it for portraits, successfully selects shutter speed for shooting dynamic objects and generally behaves adequately and predictably.
It’s quite possible to give such a camera to not the most technically savvy parents on vacation, providing a brief instruction “where to reap”, and they will bring back enough successful shots to score another album of vivid impressions of Egypt or Turkey, even if they use only the automatic shooting mode .
SMART functionality
The post-processing and sharing functions are largely the same as those in the NX300, except that it is a bit more pleasant to work on the NX2000's larger display. Firstly, it is worth noting that the term “post-processing” is somewhat incorrect: many of the effects, settings and filters can be applied BEFORE shooting, adjusting the color reproduction, contrast, brightness, saturation and many other parameters through the menu. Secondly, photo editing options are different for JPEG and RAW files. The second, in addition to filters, color settings and other things you can fully “drag” in several ways, as in Photoshop or lightroom. I would not say that this is a basic functionality, but on any trip, without a laptop or tablet, by hooking up to Wi-Fi in a cafe, you can “process” well and put the photo on the Internet directly from the camera. We'll talk about all this a little more when we consider the NX300.
Subtotals
Well, what are your impressions? My imho is this: the NX2000 is an extremely simple version of the more “adult” mirrorless NX300: it is most oriented towards the use of “plugged in and photographed”, and the expert shooting mode was inherited from the older camera, according to the principle “the presence of the feature is better than its absence ”, and if there is a camera with similar entrails, why not transfer the functionality, in fact. But, with all this “casualness”, the NX2000 does exactly the same good and clear shots, works surprisingly confidently in the “green mode” and has SMART functionality and wireless interfaces.
Yes, hardware control is maximally simplified for the sake of a large touchscreen display and an automatic shooting mode, but if the need arises, the camera can instantly turn into an “adult” by providing a full set of settings available on primary and reflex cameras (for the Canon line-up there will be 1000 and 500-600-700 series). In addition, the “two thousandth” uses microSD cards:
NX300
Well, we got to the "big brother". Part of the differences, I’ve already got you into a mess, some haven’t yet had time, so let's sort things out in order.
Appearance, body, usability
If the NX2000 is a child of plastic and a classic representative of the “middle segment”, then the NX300 shines with noble materials and retro design: metal, skin “under the skin”, “adult” set of controls, neat and reliable pivoting screen mechanism.
On the top side - as many as five camera controls.
- Combined with the focus and shutter button, a sliding power switch;
- Actually, the focus / shutter button;
- Wheel to control the active function of the camera;
- Marked wheel selection of shooting modes;
- Recessed quick activation button wireless functionality.
In terms of the above points, I have no complaints: the first, second and fourth elements are implemented almost perfectly. Hiding behind the number 3 adjustment wheel, in my opinion, rotates too easily - he would have a little more noticeable / tangible “click” on the division and not such a “deep” fit into the camera body - and it would be just gorgeous.
But point number 5 is still a misunderstanding, but we will return to it a little later.
On the back panel, in addition to the touchscreen (which can be tilted 90 degrees up and 45 degrees down from its original position), there is a five-way multi-function button that provides navigation through the menus and settings, as well as quick access to some functions, the transition buttons to the gallery, a button for deleting a photo, an FN button, a button to go to the main menu of the camera and a button that selects the mode of the number 3 wheel from the last paragraph - adjusting the shutter speed or aperture. Most of the available buttons can be reassigned / assigned to other functions through the main menu, thus obtaining access to almost any function with one click.
In principle, according to the icons / signatures on the five-position button, it is clear that each of the “directions” is doing, so I will not comment on anything.
Yes, I almost forgot. There is still an inconspicuous button for instant transition to the video recording mode, but it is located in the “dead zone”, which, in principle, is good - you cannot accidentally press it. From the interface connectors have USB and HDMI, both with the prefix micro.
What can you say about the existing camera controls? There is nothing superfluous, everything you need is at hand, all the buttons are pressed with a clear return, all the switches allow you to work with the camera "blindly."
Am I ready to call usability perfect? No, not ready. Retro design made its own adjustments, and I would like to slightly move some elements, smooth some faces, and make the “handle” more anatomic. But if you do not pay attention to these little things, the camera just fits perfectly in your hand, and, of course, after some getting used to it, you can use it just as easily as any crop mirror in “manual” mode. The ISO rolls onto the tuning button, the white balance works fine in automatic mode, the aperture and shutter speed are available both on the “3-wheel” button and on the lens via iFN ... what else is needed for happiness? :)
Work with the camera
The main mode of interest in the NX300 - manual - is implemented quite comfortably. If the software is implemented on 8 out of 10 points, and there is nothing special to discuss in it, then this is exactly the manual mode that allows you to get the most out of the camera and get pictures as close as possible to what you want to see as a result - what you can and should consider in detail.
Firstly, the basic settings of the manual mode - ISO, shutter speed and aperture are 1-2 presses and, importantly, they are duplicated in two places.
In the “classic” mode with the upper wheel, we select the shutter speed, with the “aperture” button held down, we also adjust the aperture, after setting the ISO to one of the camera buttons, we can also correct the photosensitivity (moreover, within very large limits). In addition, by setting the camera menu that displays by pressing the iFN button, all the same (and some other) characteristics can be adjusted by pressing the iFN on the lens and rotating the focus ring (it does not have a direct connection with the lens system, and this similar multi-functionality). In addition, nothing prevents you from spreading the shutter speed and aperture control to two different “wheels”, although it will not save you from having to press iFN to adjust the aperture.
Secondly, the autofocus system (and manual focusing) is represented here by an extremely tricky (and, in my opinion, very convenient) hybrid system: phase sensors built into the photosensitive matrix itself + accurate contrast autofocus, coupled with a fast DRIMe IV processor, allow you to quickly and accurately even focus on a flying bird, a playing dog, or running children. The mechanism of manual adjustment of the focus is also interesting. After the autofocus “triggering” is displayed, when you start rotating the focus ring, the camera will zoom in on the fragment you are focusing on (magnification x5, if the memory does not change), and emphasizes those in the zone of contrasting focus of the image. It is difficult to describe in words, to convey to the video - also: you just need to touch it live. Due to the lack of a direct connection between the focus ring and the optics (you only set the command for the STM or USM motor in the glass on the shift of the optical system), it is possible with surgical precision to “reach” the desired object. The absence of “friction” in the system, lightness and a reduced “gear ratio” (honestly, I don’t know how else to put it in words) allows you to adjust the focus as accurately as possible, and the help system by highlighting contrasting borders + zoom on the selected area only simplifies this process and allows perfectly focused shots even for people with poor eyesight.
Thirdly, I want to mention the system of electronic level on the screen. Since the camera doesn’t have an optical viewfinder, and the whole frame is set up in LiveView mode, the overlay electronic horizon with the grid comes in handy: the horizon with such an assistant can be filled either intentionally or on a ship in a storm. The system is very sensitive and perfectly shows the “correct” position of the horizon.
Shooting in RAW and SRW files
SRW is Samsung's proprietary RAW file format. Perfectly opens with Photoshop or Lightroom after the corresponding update of Adobe Camera RAW.
The files themselves in most cases stretch almost 2.5-3 feet of exposure without much loss of quality. When the camera software is updated to version 1.3, their average size fluctuates around 23 megabytes, and the camera's buffer stops drowning after 3-4 frames and starts recording images to the memory card much faster, but the total “plug” after the buffer has been exhausted (and the inability to continue shooting, until the frames from the buffer will not be recorded on the memory card), unfortunately, has not gone anywhere. I do not think that this problem will be fixed programmatically in the next firmware version - rather, we will have to wait for the NX400, in which there will be a hardware increase in the frame buffer, and something will be done with recording frames on the memory card. So far, she is not happy with the speed ...
Photo
I think it's time to show you the frames that were made on the NX300. All of them are taken from the 500PX.com social network, you can find them through a search.
My own frames will be in a post with lenses. ;)
Hidden text
I honestly tried to make all the pictures clickable, but after a while 500px shows 404. :(
Price quality
If we consider the fact that the NX2000 is a simpler (and, accordingly, cheaper) camera than the NX300, is it worth taking it, or is it better to pay extra and take the flagship?
The average price on Yandex.Market for the NX2000 is about 17 kilorubles per whale kit.
Three hundred will rise in 23 thousand rubles. The difference - about 6 thousand rubles - almost a third of the price of the younger model. For 6 thousand rubles, you will receive: a smaller, rejectable display (and resolution), a more “adult” set of hardware buttons, which allows you to quickly and more conveniently set up the camera in “adult” mode and phase autofocus. Well, more serious appearance.
Quality of personnel, SMART-functionality, supported lenses and accessories - everything will remain the same. Is it worth paying a few thousand rubles for these improvements? Maybe. Is it worth paying a third of the price of the camera? Not sure. If the difference was only 3-4 thousand rubles, then there would be no doubt: the NX2000 could be bought with a clear awareness “I do not need all these features of the NX300” or if there is no need for certain functions. The camera would be taken for the fact that it “look what - pink!” Or simply falls under the budget. But the difference of 6 thousand rubles makes you seriously think: why do you take a mirrorless camera with interchangeable optics, and do you need to overpay for features that you will not use? If the answer is “I take it instead of a DSLR so as not to carry a kilogram carcass, and I know how the aperture differs from the shutter speed,” then you should most likely be inclined to purchase an older model. If you take a mirrorless as a second camera, as a “home” camera for all occasions, just like a camera, without a sight for interchangeable optics, then the NX2000 is your choice.
Instead of conclusion
On this, for now, everything. In the next issue we will talk about the available lenses, their features and accessories for NX-series cameras.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/194534/
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