Apple eMac. Acceleration from 1 GHz to 1.2 GHz with a soldering iron
Hi, Habr! Today I want to talk about how I, with the help of a soldering iron, dispersed my old eMac. I did this about 3 years ago, so now I will tell everything as the old man is sorted.
Front view.
')
Bottom view.
Inscriptions on the cover. 2x bolts were missing from the time of purchase (taken from the hands) =)
Removing the cover, we gain access to the RAM, BIOS battery, and the PRAM reset button.
By the way, a battery is used to power the BIOS, and not just a battery. It's great because in the process of long-term operation, it will be extremely rare to remember about it. Initially, there was a nickel-cadmium battery, but it ceased to hold a charge. In MakOS, this was expressed as a reset of time. I changed it to Lithium. Works further =)
Unscrewing all the bolts in the case we remove it carefully, without damaging the wires of the power button. Disconnect them.
Remove the cover.
General view without cover, bottom.
Behind.
On the side.
Stereo speakers here at 19 watts.
Next, remove the cover by unscrewing 2 bolts.
We get access to the CD-ROM drive and modem. The drive was also replaced, the old one did not support DVD. Now it is omnivorous, but there is a small joint. If after turning on the computer does not use the drive for 10 minutes, then it seems to freeze. It stops responding to the eject button, and generally behaves as if it does not exist at all. In the internet they write that it is so with almost any drive and it is not treated, except for certain models that are initially plowed as they should, that is, they do not require additional tweaks. Clearly a firmware compatibility issue.
Disconnect the power supply fan.
Remove it. It is installed on rubber buffers designed to eliminate vibration, but in fact, the cooler itself “cuts the air” quite loudly.
Under the cooler we see a heat pipe with a radiator.
Disconnect the monitor signal wire. By the way, this is a regular RGB connector. On the Internet, the Kulibines even replaced their own kinescope with an LCD matrix of the corresponding sizes. Well, they explored that there were no connection problems.
Disconnect the second end from the power button.
Next, turn off the speakers, microphone, status LED and another connector that goes somewhere deep into the monitor, because I did not understand its purpose.
After unscrewing all the bolts along the perimeter, we remove the “system unit” from the monitor.
Monitor without block.
The reverse side of the motherboard.
Connector for an optional Wi-Fi card. By the way, to install it, you do not need to disassemble the computer, just unscrew a small lid over the CD-ROM drive.
The hard drive was also replaced by me. It was 60 GB, it became 120 GB - the maximum for this platform.
On the side of the "screw" is a rather massive copper processor radiator with a heat pipe.
Remove the hard drive.
Disconnecting the cable.
And, finally, we remove the "motherboard".
General view of the back side of the motherboard
Dial-up modem.
Power Supply.
But the actual place of work soldering iron. I note that at that time I held the soldering iron in my hands for the first time. It was very scary. Most of all I was afraid to kill the machine. But the desire to squeeze out the cherished megahertz from the processor overcame fear.
By the way, the process while I “overclocked” the machine, I had to assemble / disassemble it three times and re-solder it three times. And I had to solder with the help of a toothpick =) I kept with her those small diodes, which were trying to “shoot” into space and get lost =)
In red, I marked three rows of contacts, with the help of which the stepping of the processor is regulated, green - how it was originally blue, what happened as a result.
First, I overclocked it to 1.13 GHz, then I assembled the typewriter, then again I disassembled it to 1.3 GHz and gathered back I thought that everything would be fine and stay. But after some time, the computer began to fall into the "screen of death." Naturally, I did not doubt that this was due to my overclocking. Therefore I had to disassemble it for the 3rd time and re-solder it up to 1.2 GHz.
Here in this mode, the bag folds without any glitches for the 3rd year.
These are the adventures here =)
Front view.
')
Bottom view.
Inscriptions on the cover. 2x bolts were missing from the time of purchase (taken from the hands) =)
Removing the cover, we gain access to the RAM, BIOS battery, and the PRAM reset button.
By the way, a battery is used to power the BIOS, and not just a battery. It's great because in the process of long-term operation, it will be extremely rare to remember about it. Initially, there was a nickel-cadmium battery, but it ceased to hold a charge. In MakOS, this was expressed as a reset of time. I changed it to Lithium. Works further =)
Unscrewing all the bolts in the case we remove it carefully, without damaging the wires of the power button. Disconnect them.
Remove the cover.
General view without cover, bottom.
Behind.
On the side.
Stereo speakers here at 19 watts.
Next, remove the cover by unscrewing 2 bolts.
We get access to the CD-ROM drive and modem. The drive was also replaced, the old one did not support DVD. Now it is omnivorous, but there is a small joint. If after turning on the computer does not use the drive for 10 minutes, then it seems to freeze. It stops responding to the eject button, and generally behaves as if it does not exist at all. In the internet they write that it is so with almost any drive and it is not treated, except for certain models that are initially plowed as they should, that is, they do not require additional tweaks. Clearly a firmware compatibility issue.
Disconnect the power supply fan.
Remove it. It is installed on rubber buffers designed to eliminate vibration, but in fact, the cooler itself “cuts the air” quite loudly.
Under the cooler we see a heat pipe with a radiator.
Disconnect the monitor signal wire. By the way, this is a regular RGB connector. On the Internet, the Kulibines even replaced their own kinescope with an LCD matrix of the corresponding sizes. Well, they explored that there were no connection problems.
Disconnect the second end from the power button.
Next, turn off the speakers, microphone, status LED and another connector that goes somewhere deep into the monitor, because I did not understand its purpose.
After unscrewing all the bolts along the perimeter, we remove the “system unit” from the monitor.
Monitor without block.
The reverse side of the motherboard.
Connector for an optional Wi-Fi card. By the way, to install it, you do not need to disassemble the computer, just unscrew a small lid over the CD-ROM drive.
The hard drive was also replaced by me. It was 60 GB, it became 120 GB - the maximum for this platform.
On the side of the "screw" is a rather massive copper processor radiator with a heat pipe.
Remove the hard drive.
Disconnecting the cable.
And, finally, we remove the "motherboard".
General view of the back side of the motherboard
Dial-up modem.
Power Supply.
But the actual place of work soldering iron. I note that at that time I held the soldering iron in my hands for the first time. It was very scary. Most of all I was afraid to kill the machine. But the desire to squeeze out the cherished megahertz from the processor overcame fear.
By the way, the process while I “overclocked” the machine, I had to assemble / disassemble it three times and re-solder it three times. And I had to solder with the help of a toothpick =) I kept with her those small diodes, which were trying to “shoot” into space and get lost =)
In red, I marked three rows of contacts, with the help of which the stepping of the processor is regulated, green - how it was originally blue, what happened as a result.
First, I overclocked it to 1.13 GHz, then I assembled the typewriter, then again I disassembled it to 1.3 GHz and gathered back I thought that everything would be fine and stay. But after some time, the computer began to fall into the "screen of death." Naturally, I did not doubt that this was due to my overclocking. Therefore I had to disassemble it for the 3rd time and re-solder it up to 1.2 GHz.
Here in this mode, the bag folds without any glitches for the 3rd year.
These are the adventures here =)
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/163267/
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