A little banter over the DIR-620

Hi Habr!

The article was called something about steampunk, but you are against ...

In general, there is not only about how to fasten a large fan on the cover.
This is all clear from the picture.
')
Under the "cut" is still a "couple of pictures" and some notes on the "setup" that can help save some time reading some forums.



All who need to remember this wonderful article. I was especially pleased with the “Update as of September 25, 2011” .
That is, firstly, I didn’t even think that it was possible, and secondly, it was most welcome.

A warning! I will not be able to answer any questions on the alternative firmware itself, since I do not understand anything about this - read for yourself, there really is not a lot! I'm just an ordinary user.

So!
My ISP transmits IGMP Multicast (UDP).
The firmware from deadc0de can “distribute” it “correctly” (even via WiFi) without unnecessary “problems”.
(just for such "impassable" as I - "everything is configured by a couple of ticks").

And I purchased this device just to distribute 802.11n, but it turned out - ^)

After reading the article and understanding that - “you do not need to solder anything!” - the gateway was instantly flashed.

For a while, everything was fine, about two weeks.

Then the PPPoE breaks began.

Those. support was nothing to do with it, because tests on the "previous" DIR-615 revealed that "everything is fine" (No, in fact, when connected directly to a computer, there were breaks, but they were restored as quickly as they appeared - not noticeable. If anyone is interested, "how did you know" then I looked at the connection status in NetworkManager Ubuntu).

To my displeasure, I had to return to the previous place of the 615th for stability.
It was very unpleasant to stay without IPTV, although I do not watch TV, but, for example, a couple of channels there at times were very “delivered” to me.

Then came the realization that you need all the same - [RTFM] - "read the forums" ...
Not all information can be considered relevant and truthful, but still, trying to group disparate data, the following happened:

• With the alternative firmware, the 620s can get very hot, for reasons that are not quite clear (“trolling” or real?) - up to almost “total”. And yes, there are really a lot of trolls there. And, yes, I did not see any messages about “successful recovery” for “understandably incomprehensible” reasons.
  (as far as I understand, a programmer is needed, and sometimes some kind of “reballing” is needed)
  
• I have already lost the guarantee if there are Specialists in the SC.
  (and it’s not a fact that if the firmware is rolled back to the factory one, I will restore it).
• The quality of PPPoE connection setup may depend on which cable goes to the WAN connector (Cat5e is very desirable).

Since I was absolutely “all the same” for the Guarantee, it was decided to clarify the situation on cooling and - to act! But I didn’t find anything except removing the screen and cutting the hole for a slight passive cooling, while:

• The screen is removed from the crystal WITHOUT a soldering iron, just hooked with a knife.
• You need to cut the screen very carefully, it is thin.
• We need a very small radiator, approximately the same as on memory chips in video cards (you know, where a separate radiator is “glued” to each chip). And yes, the problem of “pressing with cooling” remains with this, since - preferably thermal paste - but where? Under the glue? .. And if there is no glue, then how to mount then? In general - hmm ...

It was decided to go an alternative route - make active! cooling.

And if you do, so DO!

And so that later, at least, “smile”.

Fan 120x120 is too big for it. Ideal, probably 100x100, but for some reason I never found it. In general, 92x92 transparent, with backlight was extracted from the “bins”.

Action plan:

1. With a 90mm crown, a hole is cut in the lid (I think a jigsaw will do).
2. This fan and an anti-vibration pad were purchased to create more aesthetics and to hide the unevenness of the “cutting” (the crown is very sloppy if the hands grow “as usual”).
3. In order to Solder Nothing (since the directness of hands is absent from the “experience with a crown”), it was decided to turn on the fan directly into USB.
4. Experimentally, it was found that "5 volts + amps from USB" almost make the fan buzz "turbine".
5. A suitable resistor was already included with the fan (it will be clearly visible at the very bottom of the large photo following the link).
6. For convenience, I had to use an unnecessary USB cable, I think this is not a problem.
7. To give more "handicraft" applied the usual blue electrical tape.

Although attentive people can see it all in the photo, I will still write a couple of accents on the actual “assembly” of this “uber device”:

• Crystal screen in perforation. In order not to clog the dust The fan must be set to Blow!
• I had small self-adhesive radiators for the memory of video cards, they are blue in the photo, although they are not needed in general, but still “extra care”.
• The left upper screw of fastening of the fan is screwed just in the leftmost slot. This is because the memory and the crystal itself are slightly offset from the center of the circuit board. Also a kind of “optimization”.

Now a few words about the subsequent setting, as It seems to me that this is important regardless of the alternative firmware itself.

1. Apparently the MAC address for the firmware I have coincided with the same "craftsmen" in my network segment. Most likely this was the real cause of the cliffs and reconnects. “Awareness” came after everything was redone. Drive in "your" MAC with your hands, it is registered on the back of the device, or copied from the computer.
2. PPPoE itself accepts an IP address, do not enable “Auto DHCP” when configuring it. Because I am a neophyte, here I lost an hour of time.
3. When setting up a “non-rising” PPPoE, I was also helped by an action like “remove ALL, except the login / password pair, leave PAP authorization”. That is, do not enter the name of the connection, do not enter the name of the device, only the login and password and the "correct" type of authorization.

Final photo:



Big photo of the turned off device (you can see the fee) (765,560 bytes)

And finally, the question is whether to take out of DIY in the Public?