DIY Color LED Bulb
The light day is decreasing, so the wife increasingly began to recall the lighting for orchids. Since I had been in the LED industry for quite some time, I decided: “why not”. As light bulbs, this is my first lamp, before I did only bicycle flashlights. I read what light the people recommend, decided that by and large, the whole spectrum is needed, but more red and blue after it.
I ordered the LEDs: two red, one amber, two cold white with a green tint. I ordered two drivers from China: one for 320 mA, the other for 900 mA. I was not sure how it would work out better. I bought a Plexiglas pipe in Satin Ice, about the same as white matte. Aluminum profile 29.5 mm x 53.5 mm with walls of 2.4 mm I had in stocks, but in the next building is taken without problems. While waiting for the driver from China, I was looking for a donor for the lamp. Unfortunately, while thinking, I left a great discount for 5 euros, I had to take a normal one at 17.
')
When all the materials were assembled, without delay, proceeded to build the lamp. I imagined this to be a very simple process. In principle, if I could have foreseen and avoided all the difficulties, then it would really be a trifling matter. But in order. It took me a couple of hours of saturday and three sunday hours, I’ll make the next lamp faster.
So, the donor lamp was immediately without a lampshade:
I turn away the cartridge:
Fastening is very convenient for further purposes. There is immediately the right nut.
Cut off a piece of the profile:
The inner diameter of the pipe was 54 mm, while I was walking with the child, in my mind I calculated that with the side of 29.5 mm the second side of the rectangle would be 44 mm. As I cut my eyes, I didn’t guess a bit, it turned out something like 43.8 mm. Decided that not scary. In principle, the problem with the size got out in another place.
On the home desktop circular did grooves to improve cooling:
LED cooling is the biggest problem. The LED should not overheat, so as not to degrade and that the brightness does not fall. When bicycle building, static cooling is paid very little attention, in motion, even a weak air flow solves problems. There is no such air flow in the room, so you need to think in advance what to do. I decided that the radiator with diodes would be located in a vertical pipe, therefore, the air flow will circulate there automatically.
This is how the radiator will stand vertically:
Then he made a 10 mm hole for fixing to the lamp rack and immediately made holes on the side with a thread for M3, in order to fix the lampshade there.
Since this is still my first lamp, I had to experiment. At first, I glued only 4 colored LEDs. The first 320 mA driver, which I was counting on, did not work with them, instead of an even light, blinking was obtained. But the second gave a very bright light. After that, I carefully read the characteristics of the drivers, and decided that the first one should add more LEDs to match the voltage to the characteristics.
Added two white in the middle, it turned out 6 LEDs:
The first driver still did not work. I tried to add two more whites, but did not work even from the 8th. The second driver of 6 diodes turned out to be many, they all glowed rather faintly, but if you leave 5, then instead of 900 mA it will give out 560 mA. Such a current more than suits me: not so much power, fewer problems with cooling, not so much blind. 4 diodes at full capacity of 900 mA even with a shade blinded eyes. Unfortunately, it was not possible to tear off the stuck LED, it keeps tightly. I had to simply remove it from the chain:
Another test run:
The voltage consumed is 13.24 volts, current is 560 mA, which gives us 7.4 watts.
The inside of the radiator is covered with thin plastic to avoid problems with electrical contacts. The place of soldering wires from the driver and the power cord is insulated by heat shrinking. The driver had to remove about 1mm from the sides of the board, and also move one capacitor inwards from the edge of the board, otherwise the board did not fit into the pipe. At this point, I had to spend a lot of time to figure out how to get out, I already thought that I would have to order a pipe of a larger diameter.
The half-meter pipe from Ibei was sawed in half, holes for M3 bolts were drilled and dressed in a raditor. The driver board is across, resting on the pipe wall.
The final result:
Used materials:
I ordered the LEDs: two red, one amber, two cold white with a green tint. I ordered two drivers from China: one for 320 mA, the other for 900 mA. I was not sure how it would work out better. I bought a Plexiglas pipe in Satin Ice, about the same as white matte. Aluminum profile 29.5 mm x 53.5 mm with walls of 2.4 mm I had in stocks, but in the next building is taken without problems. While waiting for the driver from China, I was looking for a donor for the lamp. Unfortunately, while thinking, I left a great discount for 5 euros, I had to take a normal one at 17.
')
When all the materials were assembled, without delay, proceeded to build the lamp. I imagined this to be a very simple process. In principle, if I could have foreseen and avoided all the difficulties, then it would really be a trifling matter. But in order. It took me a couple of hours of saturday and three sunday hours, I’ll make the next lamp faster.
So, the donor lamp was immediately without a lampshade:
I turn away the cartridge:
Fastening is very convenient for further purposes. There is immediately the right nut.
Cut off a piece of the profile:
The inner diameter of the pipe was 54 mm, while I was walking with the child, in my mind I calculated that with the side of 29.5 mm the second side of the rectangle would be 44 mm. As I cut my eyes, I didn’t guess a bit, it turned out something like 43.8 mm. Decided that not scary. In principle, the problem with the size got out in another place.
On the home desktop circular did grooves to improve cooling:
LED cooling is the biggest problem. The LED should not overheat, so as not to degrade and that the brightness does not fall. When bicycle building, static cooling is paid very little attention, in motion, even a weak air flow solves problems. There is no such air flow in the room, so you need to think in advance what to do. I decided that the radiator with diodes would be located in a vertical pipe, therefore, the air flow will circulate there automatically.
This is how the radiator will stand vertically:
Then he made a 10 mm hole for fixing to the lamp rack and immediately made holes on the side with a thread for M3, in order to fix the lampshade there.
Since this is still my first lamp, I had to experiment. At first, I glued only 4 colored LEDs. The first 320 mA driver, which I was counting on, did not work with them, instead of an even light, blinking was obtained. But the second gave a very bright light. After that, I carefully read the characteristics of the drivers, and decided that the first one should add more LEDs to match the voltage to the characteristics.
Added two white in the middle, it turned out 6 LEDs:
The first driver still did not work. I tried to add two more whites, but did not work even from the 8th. The second driver of 6 diodes turned out to be many, they all glowed rather faintly, but if you leave 5, then instead of 900 mA it will give out 560 mA. Such a current more than suits me: not so much power, fewer problems with cooling, not so much blind. 4 diodes at full capacity of 900 mA even with a shade blinded eyes. Unfortunately, it was not possible to tear off the stuck LED, it keeps tightly. I had to simply remove it from the chain:
Another test run:
The voltage consumed is 13.24 volts, current is 560 mA, which gives us 7.4 watts.
The inside of the radiator is covered with thin plastic to avoid problems with electrical contacts. The place of soldering wires from the driver and the power cord is insulated by heat shrinking. The driver had to remove about 1mm from the sides of the board, and also move one capacitor inwards from the edge of the board, otherwise the board did not fit into the pipe. At this point, I had to spend a lot of time to figure out how to get out, I already thought that I would have to order a pipe of a larger diameter.
The half-meter pipe from Ibei was sawed in half, holes for M3 bolts were drilled and dressed in a raditor. The driver board is across, resting on the pipe wall.
The final result:
Used materials:
- Color LEDs 4 pieces: ~ $ 18
- White LEDs 1 piece (I do not consider unused) ~ $ 6
- The driver that did not work
- Driver that earned $ 5.61
- Tube lampshade ~ $ 11.68 with delivery, divide by 2
- Aluminum profile. A segment of 44 mm can be considered conditionally free, but let it be $ 1
- The blank for the lamp from the nearest building 17 euros == ~ $ 23
Total: ~ $ 65.
Not cheap, but it can be optimized if there is a cheaper one, or a blank for a lamp that turned out to be at random.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/109027/
All Articles