We draw a fluorescent acrylic on a solid surface
Once upon a time there flew a topic on drawing with acrylic paints on fabric .
I have been trying to kick myself for a long time in order to describe my own experience in this matter. I hope the information will be useful for those who want to draw, but do not know where to start. Under the cut a description of the process of painting a usual room door with fluorescent acrylic paints.
[Carefully, there are pictures]
Introduction
I am not an artist, and the last time Kalyaki-Malyaka painted with paints in school was in an Art lesson. Therefore, I made some mistakes, which I will tell about. On the other hand, - I did it, which means it is not so difficult (with an acceptable quality error).
So, the source data:
1. Patient: Wooden door, 800x2000mm, uneven surface - hardboard, painted with white paint
2. Tools: Pencil, eraser, acrylic (ordinary and fluorescent) paints, colorless varnish, three brushes, roller, a pair of plates, flasks
3. Free space
4. Free time
5. Free desire
Task: paint the door, while trying to have fun.
A bit of theory
Acrylic paints - water-based paints based on polyacrylates (mainly polymers of methyl, ethyl and butyl acrylates), as well as their copolymers. Dry very quickly - this is their advantage over other paints. It is possible to apply both in a very liquid, diluted state (diluted with water) and in a pasty state, thickened by special thickeners used by artists, while acrylic does not form cracks, unlike oil paints. The paint is laid down with an even film, slightly shines, does not require fixing with fixers and varnishes, it tends to form a film that can be washed off after drying with special solvents.
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Acrylic paints and varnishes can be used on any non-greasy basis such as glass, wood, metal, canvas, canvas, and the like. Fresh acrylic paint can be easily removed from objects with water, but when dried it requires special solvents. Drying of acrylic paints occurs as a result of water evaporation, and the paint forms a chemically stable elastic film. Unlike oil paints, dried acrylic is characterized by greater strength and elasticity (aqueous acrylic is less brittle); the paint does not crumble, its layer does not form cracks, the surface does not peel off. Over time, acrylic paint does not wrinkle, it is not susceptible to the effects of normal temperature changes and changes in humidity conditions.
[Based on wikipedia.org and flur.ru ]
Fluorescent acrylic paints additionally contain a fluorescent pigment (phosphor), which under the influence of UV lamp radiation begins to glow in a certain color. The color depends on the pigment, and, moreover, the usual fluorescent acrylic can be mixed in, thus obtaining any color with a slight loss of luminance brightness. Fluorescent acrylic (as usual, however) is sold as follows:
- diluted in water (tubes, banks);
- in the form of an aerosol (cylinders);
- in the form of powder (pigment cans).
There are many ways to apply acrylic paints on a hard surface, but the main ones are still brushes, a roller and an airbrush.
Brushes - the least demanding option in terms of money and skills.
Roller can handle large surfaces, but small details / contours will still have to perform with brushes.
Airbrush allows you to make gradients and other interesting features, but requires certain skills and cash costs.
As a "sample of the pen" I chose the brush.
Procedure
In general, the procedure should be as follows:
1. Sketch development
2. Surface preparation
3. Drawing a picture with a pencil
4. Purchase
5. Paint application
6. Varnishing
It is believed that the surface can not be primed before (p.2) and not varnished after (p.6) the application of paints. In my experience, it’s better to do it anyway, I’ll explain later. In general, I have all this confusion lasted for two years - i'm a lazy bastard. I missed point 2 altogether, but my drawing was constantly changing right up to the application of varnish. In principle, some processes can go in parallel. You can use your pencil in your free time, and
Go to practice
1. Sketch development
You have to decide what you will draw, it is advisable to sketch at least common objects with a pencil on paper. We need to start somewhere, we can (and should) add new details after. In my case it was a trivial form of the sun and the moon, schematically drawn on A4 paper. If you wish, I think it is possible to draw templates on the computer to print them on a natural scale and draw a pencil around it.
2. Surface preparation
The ideal case would be a paint-free, smooth, sanded and primed surface. I was too lazy to clean the paint, skins and primed. The result - after two years the paint does not hold very well. Where there is physical contact (the sliding door sometimes touches the wall), the paint has a little peeled off. Therefore, I recommend going over the surface preparation part: sanding and priming. In any case, it is necessary to clean the surface from dirt and degrease. And what to do if there is already a pencil drawing? I did this: I washed them in small pieces and immediately put the drawing back, but more carefully and this time with thin lines.
3. Drawing a picture with a pencil
This stage was for me the most interesting and the longest. Something is constantly lacking, and painted wanted to redo nafig. As a result, a final sketch was ready, but in the process of applying paint it turned out that it was far from being final. It is worth saying here: do not be afraid, even if you put paint, you can draw a new outline with a pencil and paint it again. Fortunately, acrylic dries quickly. It is also worth thinking about the colors (I just marked the area with letters like: F-yellow, 3-green, etc.) that will cover your sketch. This is necessary in order to understand what paints to buy and how to mix them. As an option: take a picture and paint on your computer.
4. Purchase
On the advice of my comrades, I went shopping at the 3-Color store. Comrades advised English acrylic and synthetic brushes "black river". After asking the lady behind the counter about some of the details of painting with acrylic, I bought 12 tubes of acrylic, 3 brushes and 3 cans of lacquer.
Ammunition for coloring looked like this:
More details (note that this was bought about three years ago):
1) Acrylic paint: 7 tubes of 75 ml + 1 tube of 60 ml.
Red (cadmium red), yellow (lemon yellow), green (leaf green), blue (coeruleeum), brown (burnt umber), purple (deep violet), dark gray (payne's gray), white. All paint except the white company Daler-Rowney, white - Ferrario Color SRL. The dark gray paint was bought because there was no black, but it also fitted perfectly. It is also worth saying that the blue paint took the most because it was the background paint. So, when buying, estimate the number of colors depending on the area of colors.
All colors, with the exception of white, cost 142r. White (60ml) - 117.5 p.
2) Fluorescent acrylic paint: 4 tubes of 75 ml each.
Green, red, yellow, orange. The same Daler-Rowney. The choice was small, so he took the ones that were. In the case of fluorescent paints, the yellow color went away most of all - many layers had to be applied so that the texture of the door would not show through. Yellow paint is quite transparent (this applies to normal) .
Each tube cost 159.5 rubles.
Total on the paint was spent about 1750r.
3) Synthetic brushes: 3 pcs.
"Black River" was not there, but I immediately decided that it would take three pieces: for large monochromatic surfaces, for medium-sized objects and for applying contours. Large brush: # 26 is flat. Medium: No. 6 round (conical). Small: №1 round (cylindrical). All brushes are synthetic. The numbers, as I understand it, correspond to the size in millimeters. The first two brushes are manufactured by the Kirov company “Painting Brushes”, the small one is the “Gamma” of the “Modern” series.
On the brush it took about 120r + 40r + 30r = 190r.
4) Colorless varnish: 3 cans of 100 ml
The varnish is acrylic opaque colorless. Production: Plant of artistic paints "Neva palette". The saleswoman at the store said that 100ml goes for about 1 sq.m. - and it happened in practice.
Luck was about 70 rubles each, total 70 * 3 = 210 rubles
I do not know in honor of what, but the check is 5% discount, and in the store I left 2042.70 rubles.
5. Paint application
If you are going to paint the door (as in my case), I highly recommend removing it and putting it on the floor. With an unsuccessful consistency (if liquid diluted), the paint tends to flow down.
First you need to "fill" the background (if any), excluding objects with a different color. There is no need to be afraid of hitting other objects when you paint these objects later - their color will completely block the background paint. The main background I had was the sky - blue. After applying the first layer, I began to doubt the successful outcome of this event - the paint lay unevenly, sometimes - lighter, sometimes darker, the surface structure was very visible. But I did not despair, but put a few more layers (in total, they turned out about 7-8) - and, voila! Relatively even blue color.
Then I painted all the objects in order of decreasing their space. After that, he applied some elements with a floric paint over the usual one. And at the end he traced all the contours of ordinary and floric paint.
Looking at what happened, I noticed empty pieces in the background, which I did not like. I decided to add a couple more objects on top of the already finished image. The sequence of actions was the same: pencil, background, contours.
A few words about possible problems and how to avoid them:
1) The paint from the tubes had to be diluted with water, it was very thick. I did this: I cut several beer cans with scissors to make “cups” (small plastic containers were also used, but this turned out to be less convenient). In flasks, mix with a stick of paint to the desired proportions. You mix it up with liquid - you will have to apply many layers, thickly - you will get “relief” of the paint and it will not lie flat. I usually added some water, stirred and tried to draw, if there was not enough - I added more.
2) Take a couple of plates (I took a couple of pieces of hardboard) for mixing colors - it will be a palette.
3) It is better to paint in the following order: background (large area), medium-sized objects, small objects, in conclusion - contours. Fluorescent circuits are best applied at the very least - in normal light, they remain almost invisible.
4) Often it is necessary to paint the same elements several times to get a monotonous color. Do not worry if everything at once looks crooked.
5) Be sure to wash the brush at least every hour, and even more so after the transition from one color to another. If you do not wash your brush on time, acrylic may decide to settle on it.
6) Do not be afraid to "stick". Acrylic paints are washed off with water if you do it right away. Therefore, it is better to keep a wet rag ready, with which all the jambs are quickly corrected. In addition, you can easily put a new color on top of the old one.
7) After coloring all the elements of the pattern it is necessary to draw contours between them. Take a small brush and paint in black. This process must be approached carefully so that your contour does not “move out” beyond the actual contour of the object. But do not bother much, as practice shows - one crookedly drawn element looks bad, and if the whole picture is like this, then this is
8) Elements made in fluorescent paint, with the light of a UV lamp, were not sufficiently clear. The solution was found to be simple: put on top of the black contours, also the “fluoric” contour of a different (from the object) color.
9) Some elements can be applied with a fluorescent paint over the usual same color. The result is a kind of Easter eggs: in ordinary light, the object will look simple, but various details will be visible in the UV.
6. Varnishing
I covered the door with varnish, using a roller - in my opinion, the best option. You will need two things: a roller and a basin for a roller, but you can do it with a large brush. The number of varnish layers depends on the varnish itself, the roller / brush and the quality of its non-bearing. In my case, I applied 3-4 layers. Roller, like brushes, also need to remember to wash.
7. Additional work
Hanging the door, I went to the final stage, namely, glued the stone Intel 80486 DX4 in the tail of the chameleon. The surface under him had to gouge with stomeskoy, pasted "Moment".
I can not fail to mention that two wonderful girls helped me: Nocha helped paint, and Malaya took pictures of the door. Thanks you!
Photo
This is how my door looks like in ordinary light:
And so with the light of the UV lamp:
Animals in UV:
Krotoezh:
Krotoezh UV:
The tail of the chameleon with the four on board:
Conclusion
Almost always you can find enough literature on one issue or another (and, I hope, my article will also help someone). Do not be afraid to take on something obscure and, at first glance, difficult. If there is a desire - definitely need to try.
And let the gurus say that it was crooked, and let the flaws be full. But when you look at something created from nothing with your own hands, very pleasant thoughts and feelings appear. I guarantee it!
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/108951/
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