Cool: air conditioner with your own hands
Article even for those whose hands are not growing from there.
Preamble: I have not been in the Capital of All Russia for 5 weeks. Upon my return, the heat met me back in Pskov, and smoke — in Tver. But in Moscow, I was waiting for another surprise - a stir on fans and air conditioners. Attention! Under the cut a lot of pictures and traffic.
There were no fans anywhere, air conditioning too. Even if you manage to find something, the markup will be x4 and more. And the queue for the installation of air conditioning - has passed for 3 weeks of waiting.
')
Well, not a disgrace, say? No, not a disgrace. Thinking over my head, on the day of arrival a simple air conditioner was already standing in my apartment .
However, it will be necessary to work not only with brains, and money will also be needed. So if you, the reader - the glamorous blonde, urgently look for the nearest geek to implement the gadget written in this article.
So bad luck.
there is money, there are hands, there is a desire to get hold of a fan or air conditioner, but there is no fan and air conditioning. What to do?
If there is no fan, then it must be done. So. We go to where the "simple" ordinary people will not guess to look for fans, but they are there. That's right - to the nearest auto parts store. Better than domestic 8-)
Screw the gander or filter from the faucet to pick up the tube in the store.
1. Radiator . Anyone bigger than Okovsky will do (for Oka). Ask that without too much automation, otherwise you will have to pick up. I bought a cooling radiator 21082-1301012, the price is about 1290r.
2. Automobile fan for radiator working from 12 volts for VAZ, GAZ, AZLK, IZH, ZAZ and ZIL cars, power 110 Watt. Price 1190r.
3. Frame to this fan (do not forget about it!), 250r. (fan cover)
4. A set of fasteners for the fan, bolts for the radiator (the price is cheap)
5. On the spot buy reinforced rubber tubes that can be cut to any length. May need a large auto parts store. Select the length based on the planned location of the air conditioner and a source of cold water. The following characteristics fit my placement:
The tube at the entrance of the radiator and at the exit of the radiator (the thickest) is a total of 1 m. Length. The tube from the tap to the radiator tube and back is 3 m. Long (thinner).
6. Set of collars (4 pcs.) For the diameter of the radiator tube. You can take a couple of clamps for a small tube (which will be put on the tap).
7. Plain electrical tape blue (10p.?)
8. Cheapest sealant (~ 50.)
9. Connector for power supply connection to the fan (15.)
10. Any power supply for 12 volts (direct current), I took from the old computer (AT form factor), 230 watts. It is convenient in that it is turned on by a toggle switch, and not through the motherboard.
11. Optionally - you can take the electric pump heating from a gazelle and a set of pipes to it with small clamps (800 rub. + 300 rub.) If you want to save running water.
12. 6 hours of personal time focused.
+ A small sheet of thick plywood, wooden slats, a saw on wood, bolts, nuts, screws, a drill and wood drills - all this was already in the economy, and it is necessary for the manufacture of a radiator retainer. Here you can be creative. In extreme cases, everything that is at hand, as well as a rope and scotch tape, will come off.
Insulating tape is needed to adjust the radii, since the tube from (and to) the radiator is larger in diameter than the tube from the water tap.
We connect all this together. The radiator is placed horizontally, having previously plugged a hole for a thermal sensor with something. I plugged a screw, smeared with sealant. When the fan is connected to the power supply, we change the polarity (minus we connect to the plus and vice versa) so that the fan changes the direction of rotation.
Cool this device takes from tap water, excess water can be drained into the bathroom, or in the sink. Gives cool air. Power is not high, so it is advisable to close extra rooms, especially the kitchen. Usually there is a malicious heat generator in the apartment - a refrigerator. This, too, must be considered.
Really allowed to reduce the humidity in the room and the temperature by 3 degrees. The radiator for some reason works on 50% of its surface due to air congestion, until it solved this problem.
If you also decided to use a computer power supply, then know that all the yellow wires are +12 volts, all the black wires are (minus), or “ground”. Wires from the fan connection can be bare, plug into the power connector for the hard drive and roll insulating. Sometimes the wires fall out, I still fixed them with a small nail. But for me, for some reason, it worked only from red wires (5 volts), maybe the unit is not standard.
Here is a photo of the resulting monster:
Internals:
Connection of tubes of different diameters:
And here is the first satisfied user of this system:
Noise is not very much. Disadvantages of the system - due to the inversion of the fan, its power dropped, and the design is technically hemorrhoidal. She also collects condensate, you can put a towel or basin. What can be improved? Make the case, invert the fan back and turn the air flow from it to% username%, get rid of air traffic jams in the radiator. And the wires, finally, normally solder.
I wish you, the reader, to meet such a summer exclusively on the sea and on vacation. Comments on improving the design and funny non-constructive criticism are happily accepted in the comments to this post.
UPD: If you repeat my feat, plz send pictures to the dog netAn.ru mail or here in the comments.
UPD2: In the radiator, the water must be fed down and taken from the top. There is also a tap for the "descent" of the airbag. Effectively works only at the maximum flow of water - lowers the temperature by 5 degrees! At the entrance of 30.1, at the output of 24.9 Celsius. I tried to connect the pump to save water, but there is not enough power supply unit - I will select a more powerful power supply unit and accomplish my goal. At the frame of the fan, the side slots were sealed with a rubber tape for warming windows in the winter, the blowing became noticeably more efficient.
Preamble: I have not been in the Capital of All Russia for 5 weeks. Upon my return, the heat met me back in Pskov, and smoke — in Tver. But in Moscow, I was waiting for another surprise - a stir on fans and air conditioners. Attention! Under the cut a lot of pictures and traffic.There were no fans anywhere, air conditioning too. Even if you manage to find something, the markup will be x4 and more. And the queue for the installation of air conditioning - has passed for 3 weeks of waiting.
')
Well, not a disgrace, say? No, not a disgrace. Thinking over my head, on the day of arrival a simple air conditioner was already standing in my apartment .
However, it will be necessary to work not only with brains, and money will also be needed. So if you, the reader - the glamorous blonde, urgently look for the nearest geek to implement the gadget written in this article.
So bad luck.
Given:
there is money, there are hands, there is a desire to get hold of a fan or air conditioner, but there is no fan and air conditioning. What to do?
Decision.
If there is no fan, then it must be done. So. We go to where the "simple" ordinary people will not guess to look for fans, but they are there. That's right - to the nearest auto parts store. Better than domestic 8-)
Screw the gander or filter from the faucet to pick up the tube in the store.
And we buy in the mobile shop:
1. Radiator . Anyone bigger than Okovsky will do (for Oka). Ask that without too much automation, otherwise you will have to pick up. I bought a cooling radiator 21082-1301012, the price is about 1290r.
2. Automobile fan for radiator working from 12 volts for VAZ, GAZ, AZLK, IZH, ZAZ and ZIL cars, power 110 Watt. Price 1190r.
3. Frame to this fan (do not forget about it!), 250r. (fan cover)
4. A set of fasteners for the fan, bolts for the radiator (the price is cheap)
5. On the spot buy reinforced rubber tubes that can be cut to any length. May need a large auto parts store. Select the length based on the planned location of the air conditioner and a source of cold water. The following characteristics fit my placement:
The tube at the entrance of the radiator and at the exit of the radiator (the thickest) is a total of 1 m. Length. The tube from the tap to the radiator tube and back is 3 m. Long (thinner).
6. Set of collars (4 pcs.) For the diameter of the radiator tube. You can take a couple of clamps for a small tube (which will be put on the tap).
7. Plain electrical tape blue (10p.?)
8. Cheapest sealant (~ 50.)
9. Connector for power supply connection to the fan (15.)
10. Any power supply for 12 volts (direct current), I took from the old computer (AT form factor), 230 watts. It is convenient in that it is turned on by a toggle switch, and not through the motherboard.
11. Optionally - you can take the electric pump heating from a gazelle and a set of pipes to it with small clamps (800 rub. + 300 rub.) If you want to save running water.
12. 6 hours of personal time focused.
+ A small sheet of thick plywood, wooden slats, a saw on wood, bolts, nuts, screws, a drill and wood drills - all this was already in the economy, and it is necessary for the manufacture of a radiator retainer. Here you can be creative. In extreme cases, everything that is at hand, as well as a rope and scotch tape, will come off.
Insulating tape is needed to adjust the radii, since the tube from (and to) the radiator is larger in diameter than the tube from the water tap.
We connect all this together. The radiator is placed horizontally, having previously plugged a hole for a thermal sensor with something. I plugged a screw, smeared with sealant. When the fan is connected to the power supply, we change the polarity (minus we connect to the plus and vice versa) so that the fan changes the direction of rotation.
Cool this device takes from tap water, excess water can be drained into the bathroom, or in the sink. Gives cool air. Power is not high, so it is advisable to close extra rooms, especially the kitchen. Usually there is a malicious heat generator in the apartment - a refrigerator. This, too, must be considered.
Really allowed to reduce the humidity in the room and the temperature by 3 degrees. The radiator for some reason works on 50% of its surface due to air congestion, until it solved this problem.
If you also decided to use a computer power supply, then know that all the yellow wires are +12 volts, all the black wires are (minus), or “ground”. Wires from the fan connection can be bare, plug into the power connector for the hard drive and roll insulating. Sometimes the wires fall out, I still fixed them with a small nail. But for me, for some reason, it worked only from red wires (5 volts), maybe the unit is not standard.
Here is a photo of the resulting monster:
Internals:
Connection of tubes of different diameters:
And here is the first satisfied user of this system:
Noise is not very much. Disadvantages of the system - due to the inversion of the fan, its power dropped, and the design is technically hemorrhoidal. She also collects condensate, you can put a towel or basin. What can be improved? Make the case, invert the fan back and turn the air flow from it to% username%, get rid of air traffic jams in the radiator. And the wires, finally, normally solder.
I wish you, the reader, to meet such a summer exclusively on the sea and on vacation. Comments on improving the design and funny non-constructive criticism are happily accepted in the comments to this post.
UPD: If you repeat my feat, plz send pictures to the dog netAn.ru mail or here in the comments.
UPD2: In the radiator, the water must be fed down and taken from the top. There is also a tap for the "descent" of the airbag. Effectively works only at the maximum flow of water - lowers the temperature by 5 degrees! At the entrance of 30.1, at the output of 24.9 Celsius. I tried to connect the pump to save water, but there is not enough power supply unit - I will select a more powerful power supply unit and accomplish my goal. At the frame of the fan, the side slots were sealed with a rubber tape for warming windows in the winter, the blowing became noticeably more efficient.
Source: https://habr.com/ru/post/101323/
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